6G Celicas Forums

This is my toy I have a daily driver but I was going to take it out today, but its 40-45 degrees outside so before I turned it on I checked the oil. I has straight 40 since I don't like multi weight oils. I need to keep it around 20psi idle and I find that when I am pushing it most multiweight breakdown really fast on hot weather(all those additives to make it a multi weight). I am not paying 10 dollars a quart for oil good multiweight, Especially when a good synthetic race oil at straight 40 cost 4.50 a quart.

In cold weather have to switch to a multiweight but since the weather is colder, it takes a lot to get to 220 degress. That is the engine temperature that I see oil pressure dropping a lot on the many oils I have tried.

But anyway checked the oil and its way too thick, not going to drive it until i change it to a multi and prime the engine and turbo since it looks like we are going straight to winter this year.

Not at the moment until I can get some bends to be able to fit one on.

2 Years later





I have changed everything from the date this post was made, it was bored out, bigger pistons etc etc
Also did the entire fuel delivery and air delivery over again. Bigger turbo etc you name it, it was done over again

Its at 10psi in first gear, 18 in second, 26 on 3rd and 4th and down to 18 in 5th.
I have no power numbers, I tuned it myself and I don't race it so no track numbers.

No ebay or chinese parts, everything is now brand name (and I went out of my way to make sure each part is not built in china), and each dug a small hole in my wallet

Seriously though the only Chinese thing left is the radiator hoses, will order some saamco ones when I get the chance. The radiator is staying because it actually works better than the mishimoto one

I know I don't have the motor yet but this is like an addiction to me, I have to be working on something otherwise I am just bored. I purchased the service manual and started doing research on the 3s before I start looking for a chassis. It will either be a mr2 or an already swapped 3s due to the time and cost, I only have 10 thousand to spend and the swap will eat up most if not all of that. I been doing lots of research the last few days on how to approach this motor and I found lots of info that just doesn't seem correct to me. Also doesn't help that not a lot of people have really pushed these engines which is really a shame considering how well they designed they appear to be. Anyway what I gather is between 275-320 horse and considering the cars weight I am looking for more around 350 to 450 at the wheels. I really don't see the motor failing at these power levels considering the size or the rods, compression and pistons used, as long as timing is conservative, egt's are under control with no knocking the engine should hold up well. I drove around a 220 horse single jingle and those things have rods the size of number 2 pencils in them, the pistons and rods came out like new when I pulled it to rebuild it. I still have the Honda and now that I am determine in making this my next project there are a few parts I am not going to part out. These being the garrett turbocharger, aem wideband, profec b, timer, precision injects, 255 pump, tial wastegate, map sensor and the egt sensor . Obvious things that have to go is are the head bolts, complete exhaust and and out of experience Toyota ecu's are not very "tuner" friendly, but I did have an aem series 2 ems before and those things are awesome so looking into getting another one of those. So scrapping the fuel delivery and adding a real turbocharger I should see the gains I am hoping for, people give in your 2 cents please

One thing I am worried about is my turbocharger, I purchased a rather large one due to my compression only being 7.4.1 and needed to run about 20 to 30 pounds to get it to about 500 horse. The turbo does NOTHING between 6 and 10 psi and comes alive above 13 the 1.6 liter spooled it at around 4500-5k rpm made boost all the day to 9000. I hope this changes with a 2 liter motor since I would like it to spool sooner.

If things continue how its going now I will probably be ready sooner. Back on my toyota days a few years ago I did tons of research on the 4a/7age etc motors. One of the reasons I want to go back to toyota is the way the 4agze bottom end is. If other turbo toyota motors have rods that big I am golden. I did the pistons, rods, crank, heads, manifold, garrett 60 trim charger, everything on the honda. I dont want to do it again, will a 3sgte handle 500 horse stock with a aem.stand alone and 1000cc injectors, with a 6262 precision turbo? i think its about 1100 cfm.

If u guys dont ban me I can post a few pics of the honda motor

The partout is going well but at this point I dont plan to start another project until may, I will be without a car for all this time but my honda was my only car. I worked on it for 13 months so whats another 5 months taking the bus. Was looking to start right away with another one but I am tired at this point. Will just unplug and figure something out when it gets warm out again. Looking to put together at least 10 and with rent bills that wont happen till may.

Ya,
pretty sure in order for this swap to be succesfull I need a complete clip

aww damn, well pipes wanna be a nice guy lol

I will continue my partout and keep an eye out.

http://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/2113277256.html

I have tried contacting him see what hee says

Lol im sure here doesnt want to hear it.

I would but I am recovering from a failed build so I dont have the funds to put 5500 towards it. Unless he wants to be a good guy and let me pay a grand a month for it until its paid off

I put 10 grand into my honda but was severly screwed by the machine shop. They ruined my block I then brought it to another shop and rebuilt it but I overlooked that they also ruined my head. I cant do it no more, going back to toyota

Trying to part it out to get funds to start another project

Just a quick question, is there any shop in the northeast area that has experience with a 3sgte swap. I want to pretty much buy a shell and dump it somewhere and have a motor swapped in as painless as possible.

many things have happend, follow the pics to get an idea.









Got a 70mm TB








THEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!












So here is a Video below of it all back together again

I am STILL at it, Just dealing with some personal problems but not giving up yet.

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I don't think the turbonetics is ball bearing so its probably at to4b, not sure what it flows. I haven't pulled any of them apart to check the bearing but I would be surprised if the Garrett isn't ball bearing.

Garrett is ~678 cfm
Turbonetic is ~550-678 cfm NOT SURE
Thing is the turbonetic will spool faster

The turbonetic is a t3/t04e while the garrett is a 57trim m24. They are both in good shape and trying to decide which to go with. One is going to be a backup that way I aint off the road if something happens.

Well when i put the turbo back on the car stop smoking, but it was just because the oil started collecting in the exhaust housing and wasn’t burning right away. The turbo still leaked,, The thing with Chinese turbos are the bearings, seals are extremely low quality. The turbines and compressors are fine since they are just backward engineered from real turbos. A turbonetic turbo will survive up to 85psi of oil pressure and a stock dsm turbo will run for quite a bit with a blocked off return. A Chinese replica is recommended 7-15 psi of oil pressure, which alone says a lot about quality. So they just have no room for error, if somebody is going to use one, the setup must be done perfectly since those turbo wont survive much.

Anyway, scraped my turbo setup, bought a new manifold that’s in the way and going to match it with a tial. Bought these snails and just have to decide what to run. They are both a bit big and will slow down my spool, but I can push my motor past 500 horses either one of these.

Stock civic VX transmission. The cheapest trans honda has but best for turbo due to the longer gears.

Brought it to the dyno but my turbo blew up, follow the pics and you should figure out what going on. I will do a write up later once I get more done









Turbo exploded



Time to rebuild








Assembly






Balancing





Finished






Some more wrench time and back to dyno to try again

I can easily make a light to see voltage but the problem is that the car has 0 zero miles and it wont trip the switch unless there is boost and I cant make any

Sure y not, Only thing is that obviously your drivetrain is better than mine, your huge gears and higher top speed will "eventually" catch up to me

I have a greedy profec b 2 but I lost the harness for the switch. I know I can buy a replacement but I have a tune appointment tomorrow so I need it for that. So I cant wait, I was wondering if anybody here has one and can tell me which pin on the back is power and which one is ground? The colors should be green and white. I am trying to avoid taking it apart and looking for the ground but I will if I have too.

I told myself that if I heard another youtube video with an evanescence song I would kill myself.... so i muted it.. not ready yet

Hmm figure I update this. Ok so yesterday I began to try and figure out why my car smokes like a train after it runs for a few minutes. I know since the motor has seen no mileage the rings aren't seated but damn, its a lot of smoke. Pulled the turbo and all behold the charge pipes are full of oil, my exhaust has oil seeping right through it. That explains some of the smoke, now my turbo has no mileage but I did start the car with it installed a few times and oil pressure is well over 100 psi at 3500 rpm. Pretty sure that killed it, anyway added a few restrictors and began to rethink my return since my scavenge pump should handle that oil pressure no problem. So something is wrong.

Anyway instead of trying to eliminate things I dumped my whole return setup, do it again and if it still smokes try to rebuild the turbo before Thursday before my dyno appointment. First thing was getting rid of those dumb, overpriced bull**** npt fittings and braided hoses. Took of the bung on the oil pan and added a barb fitting. Then it was the difficult task of relocating the scavenge pump. Now this was a problem, I have very little space on my engine bay and the pump is big and heavy, it cant be to far from the turbo otherwise it wont prime well. While I was trying to figure that out I had to take my intercooler off.... for the 1000th time so I put the pump on the back burner and try to mount the damn cooler permanently. The cooler wasn't going on, so I decided to pick up a crash bar which unbeknown to me, would be a 5 hour ordeal. Called around and nobody had it, so decided to go to a junkyard where they wanted 75 dollars for it. Then it was 40 if I pull it, but I couldn't pull it because the bolts are rusted, they have to be cut. Then after all that bull**** they said its too much work for 40 dollars, so I guess they wanted more money. I called one of the places I called earlier in the day, worded my question differently and 3 hours stuck in Boston traffic and 18 dollars later I had the crash bar. So 40-75 at the junkyard and 18 dollars brand new at a parts store... yea how the hell does that work. Anyway, I put the bar on and the cooler now goes how it is supposed to. The good things is that the crash bar gives me a new place where I can put the pump. It sits level right at the turbo, it only has to go up a little bit to go back up to the oil pan, which should make things a lot better. Now I took these pics with a damn cellphone but I will take slr ones tomorrow maybe. Wanted to drive it today but hopefully I can finish this up tommorow

But I don't like K20's ..... nah seriously not a fan of it

Anyway if all goes well big things coming the next 2 weeks, I will post progress here

@95celicast

The only problem is that I have never seen the "cheap" everybody talks about. This motor has cost me a lot more than I though it would. Why no B series, not sure, I never considered it an option while I was deciding what to do to it. Probably because around here if its a honda it has a Bseries, I hear people saying LS, LS, LS in my damn sleep.

On the tuck, well not worried about that right now.


Here is a before and after