6G Celicas Forums

Bleeding one port at a time, starting with the port farthest from the master cylinder, is the recommended procedure.

You mention that the pedal stays soft when bleeding. Is it soft when the bleeder ports are all closed, and does it firm up at all with repeated pumping of the pedal with the ports closed?

How are you bleeding the brakes? The Toyota directions, to prevent the system from re-ingesting air, are to use the jar method but with the engine off close the bleeder valve, pump the brake pedal several times to build pressure, and then to release the bleeder valve. Repeat as necessary.

While you were rebuilding the calipers, was the system left open and allowed to drain to the point the master cylinder emptied? If so, you may have to bleed the master cylinder, which requires disconnecting the brake lines.

Often it helps to work backwards. You've already verified the bleeder port is clear. Next step is to verify the caliper is clear, which given its monolithic nature should be simple. I'd also check that the seal on the piston is air tight; if it were twisted, damaged or the lip holding it damaged you could be losing pressure that way.

The final option is a faulty brake booster. This is unlikely, as it would be quite a coincidence for it to fail at the moment you try to reinstall your calipers. However, it's possible and easily tested. If it's not air tight anymore, the system cannot build pressure. First check is with the engine off; depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down the farthest the first time, but gradually rises after the second or third time, the booster is air tight. The second test begins with the engine running; press and hold the pedal down, then turn turn off the engine. If there is no change in the pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for thirty seconds, the booster is air tight.

Have you checked the brake line for kinks?

hey guys im sort of new on this site. i have the factory toyota alarm that came with my 95 zr and i seem to have a problem with the remote. i unplugged the module under the passengers seat then put it back in and the remote would still not work. i put a brand new battery in the remote the light only comes up when i press hard on the button. sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt. i was unable to drive my car for a week! so now im locking the car with the key. i was wondering if i could find another 'celica remote' and how would i program it. where can i find another remote? i have checked this forum and ebay, no luck.
gary

dude i have this too...when you accelerate it sounds like a blower? just pretend and live with it : )

Wow, few things first. I wish I lived in england so I can call things by cooler names, aerial, boot, etc.... Second I am an ELECTRIC GOD.....ok, not really. Um, is this the stock unit or an aftermarket head unit your running? If I remember (and its been awhile) mine used to want to go up when the key hit the acc postion. Which gives you power to all your stuff w/out turning anything on. On my aftermarket unit, it only wanted to go up when i flipped it to radio. Im sure there is some wire that runs around there...blue I think. As far as swapping it out, its not that hard.

Duh...

Because it's poserish to run around in an ST acting all hard... and 105-110hp?

Oh wait, he's in Europe... Nevermind. It's a pretty good car then.