6G Celicas Forums

I did eventually get the bulb replaced, but I didn't actually get the shifter removed, just loose enough for me to jam my hands under and replace the bulb. The wires for the O/D button are what keep the shifter held into the console, if you can remove them (or cut them), the shifter should slide right out.

Are the engines pre-1995, or post-1996? OBDI engines were around through 1995. '96 saw the introduction of OBDII, and this changed some of the sensors/electronics with the engine.

My idle drops in my car (2002 Corolla) when I turn on the rear defroster. There's a click because it sets off a relay that sends current to the rear defrosting panel (quite a bit of current, mind you).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcVch3lp45I&feature=feedu

That's the setup in my 2002 Corolla. For the climate cluster, I used 9 LEDs total:

-Around the temp knob there are 2 blue LEDs (rated 3.2v each) and 3 red LEDs (rated 2.1v each).
-Around the fan knob there are two white LEDs, and around the vent selector there are another two white LEDs (all white LEDs rated 3.2v).

These two branches of resistors are hooked up to the +VCC source that the original bulbs hook up to (observe polarity, check with a DMM), with a 100-ohm resistor in series with both branches to limit current in case battery voltage jumps above 12v (as happens when the car is running).

The AC, defrost and recirculate buttons all have their own LEDs, one white to light it (with 3.2v white LEDs, I used the single LED and a 560ohm resistor to hook up a single LED to a bulb power source) and a red as an indicator.

When the starter on my old ST was on its way out, to get it started I kept turning the key to start and back to on again and again until the starter started spinning. However, I didn't have a continuous clicking, just one large click. The issue was the contacts on the solenoid. Pulled the starter, replaced the solenoid and contacts with a kit from eBay, cost me about $20 total.

However, if the car is starting fine with a jump, it's not the starter, guaranteed. It's your battery or wiring, and I'm willing to bet its the battery.

And here my old '95 ST got 18mpg =_=

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fab...-bead-tool.html

That the one?

Awesome homemade tool, very creative!

Additional noise I just noticed:

Whenever I press the pedal down, a consistent squeak occurs, engine on or off. It's definitely coming from outside the car. Hoping it's just a matter of lubrication and not a problem with the clutch hydraulics. Any input?

Not a Celica, but still Toyota related haha(and I trust you guys much more than other forums).

Last week my friend needed to borrow my car (he doesn't drive stick but sort of knows how to) so I let him. He got into a nightmare situation (bumper-to-bumper traffic, uphill) for someone who isn't too familiar with a standard car, and he at one point called me during this drive telling me there was smoke coming from under the hood and a burning smell. No loss of power or anything else, no lights in the dash. The smoke eventually went away and he made it to work after I told him to just take it easy there and if anything else seems really bad to pull over again. Later that night i met up with him and checked the car out. I got to it and it smelled pretty god awful, and the clutch pedal felt a tad bit softer and engaged slightly smoother/softer than before (it's an '02 Corolla S 5spd, 119k miles with original clutch, I'm the second owner). However, I've been driving it around for the past week or so with no issues. In fact, the clutch feels as it did before (or I just got used to it being slightly softer). The smell from the car was a strong burning smell, not a fluid, but not rubber. I'm assuming it was just that he burned/glazed the clutch quite a bit (but it's not slipping/having any other issues). The smell lingered for 3-5 days after that night. No smoke or anything after he called me and told me he saw some smoke.

Anyhow, we decided I'd replace the clutch at some point soon if it posed a problem. At the moment it has been fine. However, last night I noticed a small whirring noise coming from the car. It happens when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal out), no matter the gear (neutral included). Which leads me to believe it has to do with either the TO bearing or the input-shaft bearing. It changes with engine speed, and disappears instantly the second I put any pressure on the pedal. I mean any pressure, I can just touch the pedal and the second the free-play is used up the sound goes away (obviously I don't drive it like that, though).

I'm probably going to go ahead and replace the clutch over the winter at some point, but I feel like this new noise I'm hearing is not clutch related (but more transmission related) and as such, a coincidental issue to the clutch glazing. I would just like some input as to whether or not I am looking into more serious repairs than just a clutch/plate/TO bearing replacement.

Side note, what clutches would you recommend? Car is completely stock so I don't need anything special. From what I've gathered, Excedy makes the OEM clutch for this car so I was planning on just grabbing that. I believe I found Excedy OEM replacement clutch kits going for around $150 (clutch disk, pressure plate, TO bearing and alignment tool). Sound about right? What online/retail sources do you recommend for picking up an OEM or good aftermarket clutch kit?

The accelerator is most likely sticking because of a dirty throttle body. Pull off the intake ducting to the air filter then spray some carb cleaner in the TB, and use a toothbrush to clean off the carbon deposits (make sure to get inside the butterfly valve as well by rotating the pulley by hand while spraying/cleaning).

As for the cold start issues, I couldn't really help you there. I'd definitely try changing the oil (I use Mobil 1 5w-30) and seeing if that changes anything.

Just the mechanism for the measurement. The surface of the gasoline will tend to move around more when there's less in the tank which screws with the float. There should definitely be a better way to read the gas level, though. My Corolla is particularly terrible, it will fluctuate about +-1/3 tank in any given drive.

Good call, I forgot my fileserver turned into garbage. Original post now has fixed links!

Hahahaha woops! xD

It's a 60 liter tank = 13 UK Gal. = 15.9 US Gal. tank guaranteed.

Keep in mind the tank is 15.9 gallons. So if you're filling it with 10 when it's "empty," you've got 5.9 gallons still in there

This.

Just for clarity's sake:

1. Fill tank
2. Zero odometer
3. Drive around
4. Fill tank again
5. Divide odometer reading by amount of gas put in at the pump
6. ???
7. Profit!

My Corolla is pretty bad with gas readings. It fluctuates +- a quarter tank on a given trip.

If the clutch is fine, you're probably fine. Couldn't hurt to fill the reservoir, though.

As for the GT-Four brakes, I'm not sure if they're a direct bolt on. Search the forums, it's come up a ton, I just don't remember.

edit: here you go:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=68002

edit 2: Should have linked you here instead. Sorry:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=69180

Yeah, the picture you took is of the clutch master cylinder. The brake fluid res is right next to it, it doesn't have that float in it.

Sounds like you have a stuck piston. Try jacking the car and try rotating the wheels. If they're difficult to rotate, it's most likely a stuck piston. Pull the wheels, check your pads, then pull your calipers and inspect them. You should be able to compress the piston and extend it by pressing the brake pedal.

Right, that's the one. First you pull the trim with the cigarette lighter/pocket/etc up. Move the gear selector to L or 2, pull up on that piece of trim, and then pull it out and disconnect the wires for the cigarette lighter/light. Then that piece can come out entirely. From here, you have to pull the center console (two 13mm bolts inside the console and two tabs on the lower-dash plastic). Then you can pull the lower dash, which I haven't done personally, but instructions are above (remove under the steering wheel trim, unscrew 10mm bolt, remove glovebox, unscrew other 10mm bolt, pull out lower dash). There are a couple screws between the two seats facing in towards the center on the side of each piece of the lower dash as well, those need to come out.

Oh wait, the fuse you removed in that picture is the one that turns the lights off? I was under the impression that they stayed on after that one was pulled.


I'd pull the climate control unit out and disassemble it, check for shorts.

You broke the "auto shifter piece." I think that may be the thing that, to avoid breaking, requires the lower dash to be removed. There's the top-trim piece that just clips in which also has the cigarette lighter/pocket and then there's a couple other pieces of trim under it. To get anything else out after the upper-most piece of trim, you need to pull the lower dash and center console. Pulling the selector stick is a bitch too, there's two screws but the O/D switch keeps it tightly bound in. I never learned the correct way to remove that either, I know most just pop out the O/D switch and cut the wires, but there's gotta be a way to disconnect the wire under the auto-shifting unit.

You have to pull apart the whole dash to get all of that out. Pull the center console, then the lower dash. You'll get to it eventually.