6G Celicas Forums

Fully agree with Presure on this one, I never replace a fuel pump unless it's not working right or way too loud etc…..

Yep, reset that ECU with a disconnect, My hypothesis is your EGR system was thrown out of whack and it tripped your cel when you missed the gear, either that or like green said a misfire or knock sensor.

Thanks man, I really hope my ex will let me involve my boy with the repair of his future car… she can be so very over protective though, might have to just let him help with the cosmetics and easier stuff….. he is 13 now =)

I'm also realizing that since it's smog exempt I could do just about anything to my Honda once the time comes(IMA system dies)…….. Hello Accord hybrid system =P

At 202,332 miles I spun my number 4 rod bearing…. good news is I got a loan for a new car(hybrid 08 civic this time for the mileage) and I have 3 years to fix up the celica to give to my son as his first car! so it all worked out alright it guess, miss my celi though =( will have to buy the rebuild parts slowly over time and then I'll be back! Possibly with a V6 2gr-fe we shall see….



Here's the new car(good thing I have electronics engineering training) and my poor celi in the background getting ready for 3 yrs of PNO…… =(

Spun my number 4 rod bearing driving her extremely hard to get to my grandmother who had taken a spill, she got me there but less than 1/4 mile from the house claketyclackety knock knock. I have peered there with a borescope and looks like it hasn't ground past the brass thankfully, Time to get on a rebuild…. fun fun.

Has it been doing this since you got the car? I also have a GT and it's normal for the 5s-fe to fall on it's face at around 4800 rpm, mine does this as well and so have 4cyl camrys I've driven.

It's possible you have a dirty throttle body which will cause the idle to vary, also your car may be having fuel delivery issues of some sort.

Grats on your new ride.

If your axle is binding then it can knock/thud while driving in a straight line, this only occasionally happens, they usually click during powered turns as we all know.


Might also be your differential, they will "knock" if lash is badly out of spec or if there are broken teeth, cornering will change the load on the gears and the noise will change as well.


I've heard wheel bearings knock/thud, but they usually get really hot while driving if they are that bad, you might want to use an infrared thermometer to see if the hub is burning up. And do the wiggle test like 95 suggested.

The red circled nut secures the lower ball joint to your hub, it should have a cotter pin holding it in place(install one if not) It might take an impact wrench or breaker bar to remove, then you would need a pickle fork to detach it from the hub. This is not the correct one to pull for an axle R&R.

The green arrowed bolts can be removed from the bottom, actually when I did the passenger side axle on my Celi I only removed these bolts and the axle had enough room to slide out just fine.

Glad to hear he's on the road to recovery, I hope it's a short journey.

Actually if you increase the weight of the flywheel it adds rotational mass/inertia to the engine adding torque and detracting from the horsepower a bit, this makes for easier drivability since the engine is more resistant to being stopped by letting out the clutch.

Sounds to me like your ignition timing is not advancing properly when you open up the throttle, I'm pretty sure on all 6gc it's ECU controlled and is effected by engine rpm, AFR and TPS data, might want to check related components. You have a 95 so no OBDII for easy data readout, have to check them individually. Older cars used to have centrifugal/vacuum advance mechanisms which would sometimes get stuck and exhibit similar behavior.

It's odd though that even with OBDI, you don't have any trouble codes or a CEL lit up.

That does look pretty easily fixable, looks just like my old 76 celi after I got it removed from under the rear bumper of a lumina van.

Good point, vacuum bleeders are even better for most applications(they are less likely to cause damage). Just never could get em to do the job when I replaced a master on a chevy s10, which I used to do way too often IMO. I guess that's why I just break out the pressure bleeder on my cars.

The nerve of those a-holes showing up on your EGR valve right?

It seems some of the cheap parts stores have dropped most celica 2.2 engine parts and now they just sell you re numbered camry parts. For the most part they work, but they might look a bit different, or in your case need slight modification.

Looks like you may need to pressure bleed the system, I used to run into this problem frequently(mostly with Chevy S10s). I built a Gator aid bottle pressure bleeder which worked better than many kit bleeders that my co-workers had. Anyways there are air bubbles in there that are stuck to system components and the force of gravity isn't enough to push them through. There are a few companies that make tools which will help you, or you can make your own.

Ouch! well at least nobody was seriously injured, aside from the poor celi that is. Looks like there may be driver side structural damage there, or is that just the angle of the shot?

Well auto paint is expensive, if he is using high quality materials then that's reasonable. Many schools will charge you for the mats or have you bring your own. If it's just for labor then I guess it just depends on whether or not you trust him to do a $500 dollar job. He is probably going to school to learn to do this for pay and if he does good work then there is no reason not to pay him what he's worth. If this is his first paint job ever, then you might want to take your 500 bucks to someone with more experience.

Yep that's the one.

Now that you mentioned the radio install I think taking it back to them first might be a good idea. Be prepared for them to suggest you caused the problem though. Just walk in there with the wiring diagram and state you didn't touch any of their work.

Was my mistake for not clarifying, anyways what year is the car? If it was rebuilt in the last 1-2 months at a shop maybe you can take it back to them to have it repaired under warranty?

Thats right, however I think it relevant if the engine is worn enough to need an oil pump to do a compression check. Might need to do a whole lot more work and I'd want to gauge if it's better to swap a new engine in there. The fact that the engine was just rebuilt changes this though. In that case then I guess whoever rebuilt it thought the pump was still good, or didn't bother to inspect it.

I think toyota had an engineering defect in their engines(clog prone oil channels) starting around june 1996 and going on till about 2001. So you might also be running into this problem. Don't drive it warm while this is going on or you will wear your engine out fast!

If this doesn't apply to your car, I'd check compression on your cylinders. If it's still good, pull the oil pump and check for wear.

Yes they should always come with a new nut. If it didn't, then you got a returned axle where the person neglected to return the nut most likely.

Death Scythe
DMG: 97
Delay: 528
Additional effect: HP Drain

Lol, reminded me of a game I used to play way back when..... Anyways I think the lighter is on a different fuse from the interior lamp circuit, but same as the radio. It's very possible you knocked a ground loose while doing all of the other wiring. Also, unless you are the 1st owner of the car, make sure someone didn't swap some wires around on you previously.

Yes, I bet your strut folded in towards the body a bit. Common to see this in accidents where the wheel was hit, usually bends right where the piston rod enters the strut cartridge.