6G Celicas Forums

Can also be colour coded to your car

Here's a pic of my ST205 roof vent,available from the GT4OC,this is the cosmetic one for sunroof models,there will be fully operational ones available also for non sunroof models.

Think there's quite a few OC members on here

Ive a good mind to drive down & complain,no ST205 HOW DARE THEY

Good time to fit an ST205 bonnet & front end

Yes it is



Ive got one



Several actually

Hi mate
Just had exactly the same problem as you,front figure eight creaking LOUDLY ,if theres no movement you can cure this by piercing a very small hole in the top of the camber arm gaiter/rubber bush cover & insert the spray straw of a can of penetrant fluid in & give it a good squirt,it wont work immediately but after a few hours & some miles it cures it,i then sprayed in some lithium grease to keep the joint lubed
A small hole tho just enough to force the straw through.
Fuel cut is usually around the 1.2 bar mark mate,1.5 seems very odd where are you getting the readings from,EBC ,manual boost gauge ?

I might of missed something but are you planning on running a stock engine(not forged)at 1.4 bar

I take it you mean standard mate,the St205 is very easily run over 300bhp,exhaust,air filter & EBC set at 1.1 bar will readly achieve this figure,looks like my granny was driving the 4 against the supra Toyota wouldnt want it to win i suppose
An oldie but a goodie
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hvv5qGRbEA

Up to you mate but £400 I'd find a tank that's come of an import,my car is a JDM import & the underside was like a new car on import,that's the difference if the roads aren't salted

Hi mate
Probably be better getting one from a breakers yard.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-CELICA-1-8-ST...=item3efde98e60

This listings is for a door i think but you just contact them & ask about a fuel tank,id imagine there are plenty available from Glasgow breakers yards pretty cheap.

I can tell you how i read my ST205 codes but not sure if its suitable for your car so be carefull.
Under my bonnet is a diagnostic port(just a little black box)i open the box & connect terminals E1 and TE1 together with a paper clip then get in the car & turn the ignition to on(dont start the car!!!)
The engine check light on the dash will now flash,continuous even flashing means you have no error codes.
uneven flashing eg. flash,flash,flash,pause,flash flash would be a code 32 for example.

I can then check against a list to find out what the error code is

REMEMBER THIS IS ON A CELICA GT4 ST205 & I DONT KNOW IF THIS WILL BE SUITABLE FOR YOUR CAR,SO IF IT BREAKS ITS NOT MY FAULT

I use 235/45/17 on standard springs,this is slightly larger than recommended.(if the cars lowered clearance might be an issue)
235/40/17 or 225/45/17 is more common & a better match for the stock RR of the wheels but ive had no probs with the slightly larger size,clearance is ok & once the tyres wear a couple of mm the RR is back to the correct diameter.
215/45/17 is another option pretty close to stock RR but is too narrow on an 8j rim.
Yeah about $200 for a set of 4 is pretty good,these are the old style Super t,s the spoke doesnt continue to the edge of the rim,theyre stamped 1996 & theyre pretty light & strong also

Do you mean the wheels mate? they're OZ Superturismos 17" 8j i was lucky they were on the car when I bought it,I managed to find another set on e-bay for £120 they need blasted & powder coated tho but still a bargain at that price not the easiest of cars to buy wheels for due to the 5 x 100 pcd & limits on wheel offset due to the large brake callipers both my sets are ET 35 which is perfect.

If they're mates they'll pay for it if their twats they won't.I'd go absolutely mental if that happened to my car

Does look a similar decal kit to mine,hats off to the guy, there not easy to apply,mines does have Gran Turismo on the door number thats one of the only bits thats not accurate to the rally car tho



Otherwise its reasonably accurate



I have a few tho

Yea Federals are just dangerous mate, I could actually spin all 4 tyres up in 3rd when on boost.

No use having plenty of tread left on your tyres if your cars upside down in a ditch,pick the ones that are going to keep you on the road the best, it maybe they wear out quicker but that's usually because there giving you better traction, 300 bhp & bad tyre choice is only gonna cause problems ive done it myself mate,when I bought my car it had brand new Federals on it,they were lethal so I binned them with 6mm tread,next I had Falkens they were ok but could let go a bit suddenly which wasn't ideal,I did keep them till they wore out tho,next I had Toyo T1s which I loved such an improvement,honestly made the car feel so much better & at the moment I've got Toyo T1r on, definately the best mid range price tyre I've had, wear rate probably isn't the best tho but that's a price I'm willing to pay for the grip.
If you've got time try & get as many opinions as you can before buying as tyre choice really affects the driving of a 4.

As above mate,almost definately the sender unit in the tank,doesn't usually require a new one tho just clip the white plastic box back in place & secure with a cable tie job done,should take less than an hour & you will see what the problem is when you remove the sender from the tank,very common fault but easily fixed

The speedo difference is minimal mate,I wouldn't let that be a deciding factor in you choice.

At least you know what your talking about mate.
Doing a compression test is NOT the best or easiest way to check for the cause of the coolant loss,I'd be hopefull that it's more likely just the rad cap in this case but a HYDROCARBON test is the easiest & best way to tell

LOL really, Compression test will tell you the compression over the cylinders,hydrocarbon test will tell if the head gasket is leaking or the block is cracked.
As my car is sitting with a blown head gasket at the moment,think the only way hydrocarbons get into the cooling system & pressurize it is either cracked block or head gasket failure,that will cause the coolant loss.

Do a sniffer test (Hydrocarbon) this will tell you if the head gasket is blown, only about $60,it's possible you just didn't have the rad cap on correctly & boiled the rad, you need to bleed any air from your rad,(park on a slope engine end up,remove the rad cap,on a cool engine & let the engine reach operating temps,the fans should of kicked in & the thermostat opened, you should be able to see the water circulating in the rad this should remove any air trapped in the system & let you know the water pump is working ok.
The hydrocarbon test should be your first step tho.

Lg42lh5000 just bought one recently for £630 & I'm happy

I use Toyo T1R,s on my 4 mate,good tyres,out the ones you've listed it's the only one I'd recommend
215 is too narrow & can looked stretched(I've had a set on my 4 & hated) depending on manufacturer,I run 235 but a lot of other owners I know use 225/45/17 maybe a good compromise
I wouldn't change my 235,s for any other size tho.