6G Celicas Forums

lol yeah, try unhook plugging the boot switch to see if thats causing the problem

Sorry mate, been away... Umm, the only way it would be the battery if itwere the back upbattery for the alarm module it self, and being a factory alarm, pretty sure they didnt come out with a back up power source. Alternator, again no, if iit was youd have bigger things to worrie about over an alarm issue. try eliminating the closed boot switch, not sure exsactly where it is (i dont have a 6 Gen anymore, have 5 Gen GT4 now) but pretty sureit will be in the latch mech , if you pull off the plastic cover, you should see a couple of wires going into the latch mech, unplug it and then see how it goes, use the same technique as what you did with the hood.

Let us know how you go mate...


An anfter market alarm is always something that id reckomend for basic electric boards can tend to play up with age, and being in a car, vibration, dust, humitity, temp, etc will deteiorate the life span soo much quicker then most other places! but if yolu can still lock and unlock the car and still have the siren go ff signals that it still should be ok.

(but in saying that a cheap alarm off ebay can come in less then $50 AUD which is just so effin cheap!! yes the more you spend the better the feature get and most people will say "aw nah my baby needs nothing but the best! And needs to be install by some fella that works at Queen Street, because hes down 20 installs into 20 show cars and none have been stolen..." No one in the real world drives a show car daily... Pretty much Rubbish! it all comes down to how well the module is install.

Behind the instrument cluster, under the rear seat, in the boot behind side kick panels all work well and even run hidden control relays on top of the gear box, under the car next to the fuel tank and/or in the rear drivers side door (thats right whod ever look there for either and arlarm module or a fuel pump control relay!!!)

And yes there are ways to disable your siren, but by doing that all your doing is hidding the issue. if you want to go down that path youd just rip out the alarm/central locking moudle and go back to using the key everytime you approached your "cilly car"




Good luck and let us know how you go

Just leave it unpluged. by doing this, it will take the bonnet open switch out of the equation. (so if the bonnet is openned whilst the alarm is active the alarm wont trigger, But in saying that, ive never heard of anyone being able to do this without setting off the vibration sensor first!!)

And yes after reading your last little bit; it most likly sounds like it is your bonnet trigger playingup.

Let us know how you go mate....

Gday Mate,

Have you checked you door switches to see if they dont have a ground fault, ie not giving a good enough signal to tell the alarm module that all doors are shut. Both doors, boot and most bonnets all have a micro switch.

best way to test, sit in the car then lock it with your keyfob. do the interior lights turn off when this happens? (pretty sure factory set up turns the interior lights off as soon as all doors and boot is shut, the bonnet doesnt come into the equation here)

if the interior lightdoes turn off, and everytime, test this at least ten times... if this is all good, pop the bonnet and on the firewall right hand side (drivers side for the jap/eur/aus market) there will be a black switch about the size of a match box. unplug it and see if the problem is still there after a few days.

yeah right after. yes it is white smoke. and yeah i guess it could possibly be an overdose of oil. ill check that out tomorrow afternoon

it definatly something to do with the oil lines runing in and out of the turbo. I took the O2 sensor off the dump pipe, and it blows white smoke out of that. So again perhaps the the oil sealing plate/cup thing isnt seat properly??

Gday Everyeone,

Right, Just finsihsed a service, and a clean up on my ST185. Started fine, idles fine and runs fine; UNTIL the turbo starts to spin, a small amunt the a very, very large amount of smoke blows out the back. Now, i got a feeling i know what is it - i had the turbo seporated into the 2 halfs, now i was unlucky enough to loose the standard bold that holds the clamp together, that in which holds the halfs together. Now my thoughts lead me to think that the 2 halfs are closing exsactly right (what ever reason to why it is not sealing properly, i dont know, it looks quite fine) So with my limited knowledge of how the a CT-26 is engineered, but would i be correct if i were to say that exhaust turbine has the little cup (or something simular) that becomes pressed once the 2 halfs are put back together, hold the oil line around the shaft.

Thats my reasonings to what happening, all because of theres no smoke at idle, and the smoke increases, in relitivity to amount of revs (ie how fast the turbo is spinning)

Any help for this would be greatly apreitiated.

Cheers

Sam Clarke

Gday everyone,

Im currently doing a rebuild on my st185. Im okish with the stocky CT-26 but am wanting to get something with a bit more punch.
the engine in it atm is running 14psi (the one im building up is on an engine stand) and its goes alright but im doing a forged piston set up and something that will resemble a stage 2 head set up. So im thing of something that will eventaully run maybe 16 - 20 psi. yes i know, 20 could be a bit much but ill work it all out when its getting tuned. It well end up with an after market esu, just not sure yet which to use. As far as what i want out of the car is something that will only be a "weekender" and possible a streetable hill climber.

My first thoughts were a CT-20, straight swap no messying around, manifold ready to suit. But again not all that easy to come across, or well at least that ive found.
So what im wanting to know is

whats everyone else using?

what should steer clear of?

ensure to consider before and after installing an after market turbo?

Any help or thought would be very helpfuly

Cheers

sorry also forgot to mention that when its all wirred up properly, on idle thermos wont kick in but anything more the idle, so 1100rpm, the thermos come on

Gday guys, just a bit of a funny problem im kinda hoping someone will tell me thatg it is a simple fix and a common problem.

But started the car to warm it up walked away came back after a few minutes to find my St185 giving the presents of a dragon, steam coming out of every crack from the from end.(lol Looked pretty sweet) turned it off staight away.. after a bit of rooting around it turns out to be the thermos not kicking it. I checked to wriirng it all looks fine. so i hard wired, for the sake of a test, and the thermos turned on.So either a relay or sensor problem. Being a 20 yr old car surely a simple probel with the electric im going to guess. I will investigate further, but i just want to know if its something someone else has come across before and hopefully put me in the right dicertion quicker.


Cheers People

(Ps i know that this is a 6gc site, i also own a 6gc but 90% OF 5gc owners wouldnt know what a forum is lol)

Gday, a ct20 isoff a desiel landcruiser or something isnt it?? much work to make it fit and run?? And not that im after all out power, i would still like some aspect of daily driverability. (it isnt my daily driver) so how much power would be expected with a ct20band biger injectors?? also how much bigger should i go??

Cheers

Gday, fixed the problem. The end that connects to the waste gate off the actuator snapped. put a new actuator on and problem solved
Now my only question left is; how much bosst can a stock engine take before its too much??

Cheer Fellas thank for ur help

Gday all, Im having a problem with may 3SGTE boosting. To give everyone an idea of it all.

it is an ST185, i am sorry for posting this on a 6gc site but this the largest celica devoted site ive seen, so more likly that someone will know what i have to dfo to fix this. Just freshly rebuild the engine, New bottom end, bore was all good so i left it and a completely redone head.. So 2 months or so age i put it all back together, in 4/5 days. It started first time, ive never had to pick my jaw up from soo far on the on the groud, lol how offten does that happen , unless its on tv.
But anyways all lines, sensors, and connection are all in the right place and working. Everything worked fine first time, no hassels. But now it wont boost

Atm the mods i have done to it are;

Aftermarket dump Pipe
Fueltechnics Fuel Cut Defender
3'' 'dump pipe back' piping, sports exhaust

so i havnt got anything too extravagant, so far....

also and boasting a brand new ct26, so i can slowing retrofit the old one with a new carterige.

So it started after i put the new dump pipe on, took it for a drive, went like the clappers, the fcd was turned upp all the way and boosted to about 16psi, wasnt watching the gaue to busy trin to keep it going up the road straight lol then it went to limp mode the bloody error 34. also blew out one of the exhaust gaskets due to not tightening the bolt up tight enough. ive cleared the codes but it still doesnt boost. ive taken out the fcd, doesnt make a difference. ive checked for cracked boost lines but can not find anything. i will look again tommorrow but is there something im missing or are there someother ideas of what it could be????


Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated

Cheers
Sam

Gday, originally i was going to have one 4'' stripe offset to the passenger side but on the way to drop the car off to get the sticker i decied on 2 x 40mm stripes for a look ive never seen before, well with an offsetsetting anyways.. what does you guys think???









and a pic of my new quaddys sounds better then sex (well only a few times )

Gday, on a regular debate at the pub of a friday evening on ways to get more power out of my mates car and my 5sfe powered silly car, my mate keeps telliung me that he heard that a 5sfe will take a 5sfe head, thus having off the shelf adjustible cam gears and shafts to my car. It jsut doesnt sound right but then again it wouldnt suprise me for the fwd gear boxes are changable between the 2, or well so ive heard (again)

any help would be apperiated and hopefully the question will have one of us doing a shout this wknd lol

Gday, i saw on aomwhere on the site that there is a mob somewhere that does a set of cams for a 5sfe\. does anyone know if theyre a straight swap no hassels or will i need to have my car retuned???? also any idea to give my car some more grunt???

lol the reverse light will be just under the indicator

the clear glass will be a peice of perspex cut and a 100% fit layed into the squares (rounded edges) with a heat resistant silcone bead around it

and the reason for cutting out the middle was caz i couldnt seperate the 2 halves no matter how hot i got the light

and ill give an update this wknd (3 days til saturday)

gday ppl these are some pics of some tail lights im half way through making.

lately there have been a few post discussing tail lights and this inspired me to make some

ive chop the led ring from a aftermarket set for a 2002 model REX, being a reasonablly cheap kit the rings were a modular design so they just clipped out ( a bit of a plus for i was just guna cut them out) i couldnt separte the outer casing even with a heat gun.

what ive done is made a faceplate to sit the rings on to give a flush fit. im still to mould the sides of the faceplate but will get there. the final design is going to be a satin black body, with only the ring visable through clear glass, well plastic but anyways.... so far a total of almost a days work but i started about 3 weeks ago.. work bad wheather and other projects are pushing the lights from being done

so thoughts on my project???





also is there anywhere i can get a few 6gc.net stickers from??

gday ppl these are some pics of some tail lights im half way through making.

lately there have been a few post discussing tail lights and this inspired me to make some :)

ive chop the led ring from a aftermarket set for a 2002 model REX, being a reasonablly cheap kit the rings were a modular design so they just clipped out ( a bit of a plus for i was just guna cut them out) i couldnt separte the outer casing even with a heat gun.

what ive done is made a faceplate to sit the rings on to give a flush fit. im still to mould the sides of the faceplate but will get there. the final design is going to be a satin black body, with only the ring visable through clear glass, well plastic but anyways.... so far a total of almost a days work but i started about 3 weeks ago.. work bad wheather and other projects are pushing the lights from being done

so thoughts on my project???


%

Gday, im really liking that euro front lip.... where can i get my hands on one?????

does the beams engine have the same engine mountsas a normal 3sge??

what about the clutch??

if i get a half cut is it possible to a 5sfe wirring for most electrics?? i understand not all are guna be the same

any problems im going to run into

also im going to do afull rebuild of the engine even acid bath the block so ive got a completly new engine, are there any mops out there that do a rebuild kit? an also kit dont no much about the beams, anyone do a stroker kit???

and if i were to ever want more power turbo or super charge?? not that i want to change something thats already pretty bloody awesome just want something a lil different. to stick it to the supra nuts. only wanna run 7 maybe 8 psi just enough to give it just a lil more kick.

would it be worth looking into a gt4 box for a awd beams??


i no some of the thing ive ask cost a bit of money and time but at the end of the day im quiet happy to spend both for something i can say ive built my self

cheer i would really appriate anyones help

gday, yeah $240 is a bit much but im the kind of person that loves doing little thing like this.. ive posted a thread in multimeadia look for st-204r and look at the custom projector halso ive installed.. ive still gota get some clear glass cut up for it.... so a set of rears should be easier ive already got s platic forming mop willing to do a one of clear cover (to replace tho stocky red) and if all goes well they produce a carton or 2 for me to flog off to fellow 6gcers

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

gday, ive just oder these tail lights of a 'rex' im guna cut lay these into a set of stocky celica tail lights. ill hav to get a custom formed clear plastic outer but its all par tof the fun so give me a wk topsx to hav at least a few pics up to show

im going to use the 2 lower ring and make a custome indicator very simular to wots shown at at the very start of this topic

yeah id really recoment using a set of high quailty 6 or 6.5'' component speaker. (woofer and tweeter seperate) they will give better clarity. dynomatt ur door to seal it up that way the entire inside will act as a box for the woofer..



use the stocking speaker mountings but modify them to take a bigger speaker.

yeah ive wondered if theere were any meet here in Aus... i have to come to the big city to one

cheers