6G Celicas Forums

My bad.. Nengun does have them actually, but they are nearly 600 plus shipping for the set of 4.. grinding the holes out is starting to sound better and better

Yeah, this is easier said than done apparently.. everyone seems to be out of stock of tein ones.. Going to have to try other avenues I guess, If i find anything, Ill let you know, do the same if you find anything

ah, more excellent info! haha. Im thinking the tien mounts will work, and if not directly, I think they will be close enough for me to make them work. That being said i'll still need a way to adjust the rear camber too.. haha

Ahh, good to know!. Anyone know if the spring will fit into the mount? im not sure if the trd spring is a different size from the tein spring or not.. Any input at all here is appreciated

Alright, I know this is a complete shot in the dark, but does anyone know if the TEIN brand of Pillow Ball Upper Mounts for camber adjustment will fit on the TRD Coilover setup? (The KYB version of the TRD Coilovers, superstrut style).

I know thats a random question, but im about to put these on and I'd like to be able to adjust camber without literally grinding the holes in my strut towers (dont get me wrong, I will if i have to! haha)

anyway, I can't seem to find any real info about them anywhere, nor can i seem to find an actual TRD brand of mount to allow camber adjustments.

well took me forever to get around to doing it but I changed the plugs and wires a few weeks ago. I squeezed the gap down to .028". Seems to have eliminated the issue entirely. Also found a boost leak while I was at it (i was suspecting there was one anyway as my vacuum seemed slightly lower than normal to me at idle). Car works great now!, except I lost my lowbeams last night.. Now I get to figure that problem out.. It just never ends hahaha

The plugs i pulled out only had about 5k km's on them. I'm guessing either they were gapped too far apart for the amount of boost i was running, or were just simply too hot of a plug (6, stock heat range). They looked completely fine visually.

Where is the best place to get an exhaust system for an st205 from the downpipe back, in 3" stainless? I'm trying to stay under 1000$ but if its a bit more than that, thats ok too. Been scanning euro-bay but everything i've found on there has been 2.5" thus far. Any suggestions? I was going to go with the aussie midpipe and blitz nurspec R combo from fensport, but they are currently out of stock of the mid pipe and dont expect any for another 8-10 weeks. Any suggestions are appreciated

heres hoping, i've got my doubts though. But hey, gotta eliminate the simple things first before I dig any deeper. I'll have to drive it to work one of these days and pull the intercooler off and change em. Ill post here if it made any difference or not . In the mean time, I've turned the boost down to 11 so I dont have to think about it haha.

My car (94 GT4) is misfiring when in boost between about 11-14 psi, but only does it if its been driven for about half an hour. Works fine up to redline at 14psi for the first half an hour then the issue shows itself.

I did have a misfire happening in boost all the time, and discovered that the plastic on the rotor was cracked so I replaced the cap and rotor 2 weeks ago and thought I had rid myslef of this problem until I went on a nice highway run the other day and it started again. Since then i've tried it numerous times, it works perfect for the first half an hour and then all of a sudden, misfire. If you let the car sit for about an hour and go again, it will work fine for another 20 min or so, then start missing again. Kind of a weird issue I know, it seems something must be getting too hot.. Anyway, I'm going to change out the wires and put new plugs and order a fuel filter shortly but was wondering if anyone else had ever run into this issue before? Its quite a sharp misfire, definitly feels ignition related more than fuel, as my first thought was that maybe the fuel pump was getting hot after driving and was dropping off volume, but it feels too sharp to be a lack of fuel issue. No CEL codes either.

Thanks for reading

If you've jumped power straight to the starter and it has started to melt the wire...

a- you've shorted your jumper to ground somewhere before going through any resistance.
b- the starter is seized/has a short to ground internally.
c- your motor, or an accesory on the drive belt is seized (alt, ps, ac, etc). (not likely to be an accessory, but I have seen it happend on a few chevs in the past so I wont rule it out entirely)

haha yeah I'm just changing it as a maintenance thing, im about to order a few odds and ends from the toyota dealer here and the fuel filter was the only thing I wasn't totally sure was the same. Also going to get a new cap/rotor and a valve cover gasket too as mine is leaking.

Hey, just took a peek at toyodiy to get some parts numbers and noticed that the fuel filter part number for a 94 GT4 and a GT are listed as being the same: 23300-79425.

Can anyone confirm that before I head to the local toyota dealer to order up some maintenance parts? It'd be nice if I didnt have to order it from teh internetz

Id be interested in this as long as the shipping to eastern canada doesnt work out to be more than the pipe itself
I've got a 94 205, so as others said, its a tight fit with little room for errors

Hahaha.. thats a far cry from what the importers wanted here 95 is much more reasonable

This!

I would re-balance them before doing anything else.. (obviously you should check tire pressure before doing that )
I would guess that either one of the stick on weights has flown off (these things are made cheap now and half of them don't use 3m adhesive any more.. )
or the machine just wasn't calibrated/on the fritz that day you had them balanced. (balancing machines can be really finicky bitches for what ever reason..)

If you had a bad wheel bearing you would likely get a noise along with it.

One other thing is some times if your front rotors are REALLY warped it can transfer into the steering wheel at high speeds without the brakes even being applied.. but if this was the case.. you would have a wicked vibration when you hit the brakes too.

While your car is up in the air having the balance checked.. get them to check your front end out too just for piece of mind

Yup same here in east canada.. walked into a tranny/bearing shop and they had them right in stock.. they were 2$ here

No the fluid should go down regardless of temperature. Clear the code, start the car and try it immediately.. if it doesnt work at that time.. its not working ever.

My toyota dealer couldnt get me a pump.. and the price from the importers around here was about 800$ canadian.. which is.. absoulutely insane.. However where you are, you may have better luck at your dealer

I would pull it apart following those instructions I posted before you get a new one though.. like I said.. I was able to fix mine for 2$.. haha

The thing about a custom set up on this is that if you look at a wiring diagram for the intercooler set up.. there is a 5 wire connector going to that pump (although only 2 wires actually make it to the pump itself). If that whole rig isnt working properly it will still throw code 54.. unless you have an aftermarket ecu that can disable that.

The other option I was going to try if I wasnt able to fix my pump was to repalce the pump itself by soldering in a new one in place of the old one while leaving the other resistance wires in place.. I don't know if this will work while keeping the light off or not, if anyone else has any experience as far as that goes, feel free to chime in . A buddy of mine had a spare bosche one kicking around from his set up so I had one readily available for me to try out at no cost if it didn't work out.. but as I said.. I never ended up having to..



All of this is assuming the pump itself is bad of course (which it likely is as the seal on the impeller shaft tends to allow coolant by so if it has sat at some point in its life it corrodes the inside of the pump. Mine was so full of rust I could barely get it apart.. ), so also be sure to check your wiring out.. make sure you've got power and ground for the pump too!

It should still be able to tell if the pump is not working even if you bridge that connector (all that sensor is, is an on off switch, you've just got it permanently set to off now). It's got a separete circuit that is supposed to be able to tell if the pump is coming on or not. My 205 was giving me code 54 even with that connector bridged. The pump was seized up (one of the 2 bearings inside it was completely seized, and a few of the connections on the stator were burned up too). I was able to fix it for about 2$. (a new bearing, and a bit of soldering and its been working great ever since..)

If your not up to the task of taking it apart yourself.. any starter/alt rebuilding spot can probably do it for you (they are pretty well just a wiper motor with an impeller on the end). There is a pretty good DIY instruction thing at http://gtfour.co.uk/ under the How to > Repair/maitain > overhaul IC pump

The easist way to tell if its working or not is to pull the cap off the intercooler and rev the motor to see if it will pull the level of the fluid down.. (another tip about this is that if it IS pulling the fluid down, you have to fill the ic up while the pump is on otherwise that level sensor is likely going to tell you that its low and throw the light on, so hold the throttle, fill it to the top, and then put the cap back on while the pump is still running.. kind of a pain in the ass haha)
If you want to really confirm its operation you can jump power to it through the relay which is located in the small relay holder near the rad. (I don't recommend this if your not confident that you know exactly what you are doing, as if you jump power down the control side of the connector you will likely cook the ecu)

mine arrived today (had shipped to my mothers house as I live in an appt so i haven't had a chance to see it yet)

Paid! Sorry it took so long, was waiting for my payment on my credit card to clear first..

Nice looking kit Smaay!, the manifold welding looks top notch!

Yup they are, I was looking at that route at first but for the price it is a tad bit overkill for what I'm doing.. same as the power FC, nice but very expensive..

That linkecu looks interesting, going to to a bit of research into that in the very near future..

Thanks for the input so far guys!

Yeah the Mine's one won't run the intercooler pump on the st205.. which is no big deal I would just wire it to run all the time.. the other thing about the Mine's one is its tuned for Japanese supreme.. but If I went this route I would get a meth injection kit to help with the octane issue

Hey guys, I've been looking into different options for engine management on my gt4 and was wondering what everyone else that had an after market set up was running on their 3rd gen 3sgte, and what their opinion of it is so far.

Been looking into a few different options.. including the apexi PowerFC, as well as a one shot deal like what Mine's offers. Anyone here have any personal experience with either of these? or any other suggestions that they have personally had good luck with? I'm liking the idea of the Mine's set up as there is no AWD dyno anywhere near me so tuning a full stand alone ems will be a bit of a pain in the ass on the street, unless I can find a good base map somewhere for it..

haha yeah thats what happened to me too