6G Celicas Forums

I know that our Celica's headlight don't yellow but I've got a Corolla that did. I bought a cleaner kit made just for this problem which cost $10 but it didn't work . I ended up getting them clean with toothpaste. The plain white Crest tooth paste seems to work best. All you do is put some on a paper towel and buff the headlight with it then wipe it off with a clean towel or paper towel. They look like new headlights. Hope this helps someone else on here.

In high school me and my friends put a 350 in a Chevette.

I'm 32 and bought mine when I was 23.

I once saw a nice 5th gen celica parked on the side of the road. There was a guy and his daughter in the car and I asked if they needed any help, the guy told the car just died on them. I proceed to ask him what was wrong with it and he was clueless so I told him to pop the hood so I could take a look at it. He had no idea what-so-ever how to pop the hood so I did it for him. I saw that the belt had broken so I told him. He thought that meant the engine was blown and he started freaking out a little. Before he had a chance to call a tow truck I ran to autozone and got a new belt for him, showed him how to put it on and I swear it was as if he just rebuilt the motor the way he was going on about it.

I think that some have been led to believe that engine work and knowing how to do simple maintenence is witchcraft, and I think a lot of this misdirection comes from hearing various mechanic's double speak. Of course there are those people who just don't care and one of my biggest pet peeves is people who buy a car without ever taking a look at the engine.

Sorry about that, I didn't realize the solenoids were seperate. My only experience with them is in the early to mid 80's front wheel drive fords which have everything in one unit.

Check the front motor mount and make sure the bracket isn't broken.

Am I the only one who thinks this sounds more like the shift solenoid went bad? I've never had an automatic tranmission go out that will actually still function at all, in my experiece they'll just stop working. You might want to get someone who knows about transmissions to take a look at it, if it is just the solenoid it will save you a lot of money.

I think it would be possible for Hector to put another 7afe in it himself though. I really hate to see that car messed up, it looks so good.

Is your intake secure? Do you still have a catalytic converter, if so the shield might be coming loose on it.

The problem with those types of mounts is that since they stop most vibration at the mount the vibration will transfer to other areas which can loosen something else. The more I listen to the video it sounds like a loose piece of aluminum.

Just a heads up, you should really look around for chewed wires. From my experience if they've made a nest then they've torn through quite a bit of things to get the material for their nest.

No.

I personally use K&N on all of my vehicles and have never had a bad filter from them. It really looks like you need to clean the mating surface really good before putting another filter on it. There could be a chance that the surface has a scratch in it.

Like trdproven said it's probably some foreign material on the mating surface. What brand oil filter did you use? Sometimes with cheaper oil filters the gasket on the filter will either have a kink in it or not be fully attached to the filter itself. If the gasket isn't attached to the filter completely, which would be a manufacturing defect, it could buckle as you tighten the filter. I've seen a lot of bad lower end Fram filters that should have never made it past quality control.

The reason for all the dead coils is to make sure that the spring stays seated in the strut at all times. It's just one type of design.

Stick a flat head screwdriver in there. It's adjusted in an up or down motion. A picture is worth a thousand words. In the picture it's the part at the bottom of the picture next to the lithium grease.

Here's a picture from autozone

Adjusting this will actually move the shoes in or out. I own an st so I don't have rear discs but I'd say that the inner shoes on your discs work in a similar fashion the rear drums do on an st.

After looking over that side of the car again I saw that the end link on that side for the sway bar was coming apart. I'm sure I did that on accident while putting the transmission in. Anyways, today I put new Moog end links on and the car is as good as new.


Son of a bitch! I just realized there's a how to for end link removal on here, I ended up using a grinder to get the bolt off.

I had to change the gas tank out on mine because of a puncture in the bottom of the tank. The tank I got was from a junkyard and had been sitting in the weather for many years and shows no signs of rusting completely through, just a few spots of surface rust. If it only has a gas smell when full or nearly full I would suspect a one of the various hoses coming off the tank. If it's not the filler hose then pull the fuel pump access hatch under the back seat in order to check the condition of the rubber hoses on the top of the tank. I had to replace all mine because they cracked when I sqeezed them. It could be the charcoal canister but if it was it should have thrown the engine check light and you would be using more gas than usual (the canister cost way more than you would think).

My favorite thing is that I rarely have to fix anything on it.

I just put a new transmission in my car this weekend and finished getting everything back together today. While driving to work tonight I noticed that whenever I hit a noticable bump in the road that the front driver's side seemed to not give. It's hard to explain but the other struts would bounce and little as they normally would but the front driver's side doesn't bounce at all and seems like it follows the bump in the road. The car has had Tein (1"?) lowering springs on it for years. I've heard of bad struts bouncing too much but is it possible for one to become completely dead. I didn't have this problem before putting my new transmission in so there could be multiple issues going on with that side of the car, I would just like some idea of where to start looking at.

Put a low mileage junkyard transmission in today. Shifts like a dream.

In addition to the above, when putting the bolt back on make sure that you don't cross thread it.

I hope I didn't sound like a dick because I really wasn't trying to. I thought it might be the shift silenoid but if it was I would think it would be acting pretty bad in D. I think someone with an automatic should be able to tell you if there's does the same.

I honestly don't know if it's normal or not but I feel there's something I need to say. 1st and 2nd in an automatic aren't for normal driving but are there for when pulling or having a heavy load. You can actually do damage by shifting through them in your everyday driving. However if this isn't normally how the transmission shifted before I would suspect the shift silenoid first.

I've got one but I've never had much luck with it. I would just take it to a shop. It's not as good as what the shop has because they check balance with the tire spinning. I only use mine to balance trailer tires.

I think you could put it in yourself too, it would save you money and you could learn so much by getting in there and getting dirty.