6G Celicas Forums

not sure what the conversion is to Kmh exactly (125-130??) but at 110 I'm at something like 3200rpm or so

rofl... looking loads better! Is that speedo needle warped??

Sounds pretty close to what the going rate is here - wouldn't hurt to shop around. If the mechanic has a good reputation and you're happy to pay that, then go ahead. There's no point going to a place that will do it for say £400 in total if they aren't great - personally I'd rather pay more for a mechanic with a good reputation than pay less for a crappy job, only to have to do it all again in 3 months time.

This is a very helpful thread, even if it's just for the fuel pump. Can this be stickied/added to the Information section?

I'd find out first how they are quoting you... ie parts and labour; how much for the part and what the per hour charge is for labour. Sounds steep to me, just going off what others have paid for the same job locally and doing the currency conversion. It's a pretty big job tho and I don't know what mechanics typically charge in the UK...

Is there anyone that has had these in for more than 12 months had any issues with these, or resultant issues from chronic vibration?

Still interested in that MAP sensor if you're willing to post to me...

awesome thanks guys I'll give that a go on the weekend

I'll grab the sensor if you don't mind posting to me in Melbourne AU!

I'll grab the sensor if you don't mind posting to me in Melbourne AU!

$600 for the turbo, and ECU (if the ECU is in good nick) shipped to Melbourne...?

We're pretty used to paying through the nose for shipping from the US to OZ... I don't think it's worth changing out the whole loom unless there is an electrical problem that can't be solved otherwise. Or of course if I was planning on an engine swap It might be worthwhile getting a quote from Toyota for new non-glasslike plugs. 204's are rarely seen in a wreckers with much useful bits left in them (unless you're one of the first guys to see a new wreck! ha!) at least one the several occasions I've gone part-hunting

Has anyone here managed to dismantle the side mirrors (specifically the jap spec folders) without busting glass or breaking other bits? I want to pop out the mirrors from the housing, and possible remove the housing from the swivel base so I can paint my awkwardly colour mismatched mirrors. Blue on yellow doesn't look too hot.

In addition to this, does anyone here have some good advice for stripping the current paint from these so I can paint from undercoat through to clear coat?

If your engine bay/engine isn't clean externally then cleaning it and removing all the oily sludge would very likely help you locate where the leak is coming from... You could always just go ahead and start replacing seals/gaskets but this could get expensive

I've only recently revisited 6GC.net but have done a number of things since being away:

Oil pump + gasket
Waterpump + gasket
Valve cover gasket
Oil and fuel filter
Timing belt
Spark plugs and cables
Throttle body cleaned
Flush and change all fluids (MASSIVE difference!)
Cut and polish - discovered I'm well overdue for a respray...
Removed boot trim, centre console, CD player, lifted carpet and back seat to rip out all of the mega-dodgy wiring the previous owner installed (about half a kilo or more, WTF?)
Removed power antenna and replaced with manual telescopic
Diagnosed why the foglights don't work - removed them and their dodgy melted problem-causing wiring
Diagnosed and fixed the radiator fan not coming on
Attempted to diagnose a/c not working - seems to be compressor issue (maybe!?)

err..

Registered in my new state

Still lots to do, I've barely started. At least my major service is over and done with

I'd totally take it off your hands in any reasonable condition if I knew a way to get it into Australia! The ST205 is quite rare here, you see them listed form time to time for around $20K and up... TBH at that price I'd much rather get myself a Mitsubishi GTO (I think you guys might know them as a 3000GT or Dodge Stealth...?)

I wish we could buy and drive a GT4 from New Zealand... I hear they are even rarer over there but I've seen them listed at 5K less than what they go for in Oz, then when you take into account the exchange rate, they're almost half the price.

Put your car up on ramps front first, engage the handbrake and stick a brick under the rear wheels (or up on a mate's car hoist if you know someone with one of these). Best to start with a cool engine (i'll explain soon). Get underneath the front of the car and remove the plastic tray if you still have one of these bolted underneath. Wear eye protection. Clean as much oil and oily sludge from your engine bay as you can, start from the top, finish from the underside.

The engine should be cool before proceeding. Once it's clean, try to dab away as much cleaning fluids as you can then take it off the hoist or back it off the ramps and switch off the engine. If possible (and if your garage floor is anything like my last one was) slide a sheet or cardboard or lay a reasonably clean towel sized rag underneath the front end, flat. Wait 10-15 mins. Pull out your cardboard sheet/ old towel and look for any fresh oil, taking note of where it would have fallen from in relation to your engine. If there's oil, hoist it up again (or drive it back onto the ramps)... you should be able to find your leak(s).

If there was no oil, start the engine and let the engine idle for 10 mins or if you want take it for a drive... some leaks might not show themselves for hours or days. If you see oil after it had been cool then idling for a few minutes, it could well be the oil pump gasket. You should be able to hoist it up and find it if there was oil at this point, otherwise check again in a day or two for fresh oil deposits in the engine bay.

I had a leak I just couldn't find that was bothering me for weeks. Had the car up on a hoist cleaning it, then it sat with the engine off while we talked crap in the shop. Started the engine, talked more crap then noticed the puddle of oil as I backed out of the garage. Turned out to be oil pump and valve cover gaskets, and a loose valve cover (didn't know they become loose after a while???). Needless to say, we replaced the oil pump/gasket, water pump/gasket, valve cover gasket and timing belt while we were at it.

You said earlier that everything turned on when you held the battery terminal at a particular angle, and also that sparks were thrown out when you tried to tighten it down. Sounds like a short somewhere to me... Especially since everything died again once you tightened down the terminal. The time it sparked when you tightened it - were you tightening the +ve terminal and accidentally shorted to the chassis or other gnd point somehow? I've done that before, almost crapped myself!

If your spanner didn't touch anything but the terminal then I reckon there has to be a bad power lead somewhere... grab a test light/multimeter and check for continuity. Electrical problems can sometimes be a nightmare to figure out so take your time, be patient and think it through.

I'm not 100% sure they fit but I have seen ST205 door panels on eBay. Not sure how much you're willing to pay either - the item price is more than reasonable however they really do bend you over for shipping.

Correct! Mine wasn't a factory install for foggies and was installed not long after purchase (original receipt is still in the maintenance booklet!!!).



The first switch turns on your parking lights, the second turns on the main lights. It might be different in different countries but I'm sure that in Aus. fog lights must have their own switch. I haven't heard anything about this in years so it may have changed again (and I can't find any online references!).

I've pulled out the shifter boot and centre console surround and had a look at some (really dodgy) wiring that was done. I'm pretty sure I have found the switch (it currently does nothing at all) I just need to find where these wires go. The switch is not labelled at all and has a green and a red wire that seem to go right back behind the console, quite possible through the firewall. It was a bit hard to tell as I was fiddling around with it in the carpark whilst the missus was doing the grocery shopping... The switch itself is quite large - it's a stick/toggle switch that looks kinda like the things you see in Hollywood films where they arm a bomb etc.

I'll have a free weekend soon enough so I'll be able to spend a good solid amount of time sorting out minor crap like this.

I hope it doesn't do to you what it did to me! I used Rain-X on my previous car. It was great for a short while then I had to clean my windows... Let's just say once you start cleaning the window you will need to keep cleaning, and that sh!t is HARD to get off, especially if you have tints...

Installed rear strut brace and passenger side mirror (JDM folding) last night coudlnt help myself, saw them on eBay with a "best offer" listing and negotiated the price. Yet to wire up mirrors which will happen on a weekend I get free... probably not till Dec.

Rear strut brace makes a HUGE difference! And such an easy and cheap install/upgrade!

Yet to do:
*new tyres!! rears are bald...
*maybe new wheels (on the fence about this, trying to justify the cost :S)
*S/S brake lines
*install big brake kit - this will depend on size of rims i get if i change them
*fix ding in front passenger guard and rear driver's side quarter panel, plus scratches on passenger's side QP.
*respray after body works complete (keeping factory colour to cut costs - ie won't be doing inside or engine bay)
*Source missing interior panel plugs to replace missing ones
*complete folding mirror install (custom wiring etc)
*new A/C compressor and regas.
*CD player died so that needs replacing
*Alarm is useless without the key fob, so new alarm/immobilizer time

I'm sure I'll find more...

awesome i'll give that a go, thanks man

Yeah I was going to do that but then I thought there's no way to get that screw back in again... I suppose it's not really needed though is it?

This is a great thread, and I'm only changing over to these because the pass. side mirror housing was badly damaged from one of the previous owners. It looks like some idiot was trying to melt the plastic with a lighter to rejoin the broken piece.

Anyway I grabbed a pair of JDM folding 6G mirrors off eBay with the control switch and they arrived yesterday arvo. I go to unbolt the broken mirror and remove it but it wouldn't come away from the door. Upon closer inspection I realised there was still a screw holding it in place.

How do we get to the screw?

I want to upgrade my brake lines to a good set of braided lines. The problem I'm having is finding a place that either stocks what I want or have the ability to order in what I want. I haven't found either in Sydney so I had a look online.

AT200/ST202 HEL Braided SS Brake Lines on eBay

I emailed the seller and they didn't know if they'd fit onto my '204 but said if I sent them my brake lines they can custom make them. No thanks. I'm not ready to have the car off the road for weeks while you make my new brake lines.

I know many parts are interchangeable within and sometimes even between generations of Celica, but I couldn't find anything on brake lines from the ST202 being the same as the ST204. Can anyone confirm?