6G Celicas Forums

Thank you gallant17 I was looking to hear experiences with brands rather than the actual weight. My bad that I haven't specified it.

Since I m a noob in st205 can anyone suggest oils to run in gearbox/transferbox and the rear diff?
I was considering getting them from toyota, but surely toyota must get them from somewere else and sell them under their name. Not looking to cheap out, but I have so many expenses that finding equivalent quality to oem products might help at least getting the car to the road and go for a respray. If not then I will be going with the products provided by toyota dealer.

Thanks guys!
Difinately all fluids will be replaced! I have also replaced the tires and I m ordering genuine fuel filter, complete overhaul gasket kit, waterpump, timing belt, idler gears and tensioner as well as gearbox and tranferbox seals. I will be ordering later on some seals for the rear diff and perhups an aftermarket kit I have found from tcb to replace all the hoses if necessary. I also added oem thermostat and toyota cooland, will be replacing the radiator cap too. As for my shocks are aftermarket adjustable coilovers so I may rebuild them if necessary. I will be replacing my clutch but using a new oem release bearing. I was mostly after replacing things inside the engine since the rest can be done when the engine is back on the car.
Thank you all for your inputs. I will be updating as soon as I have the engine down so I may help others with similar questions.

WTB 3rd gen 3sgte in stock form.
Located in Europe/ Cyprus.
Is it possible to find or import?
Any sources or recomendations?

Thanks to all guys I have found the issue.

HardHead93 I replaced them from my SS2 both so I know there was fine.

lagos I ve test them as well all good.

Smaay that was exactly the problem, the white wire from the ignition coil to the ecu was cut and solder it back together, it just fired up.

Recently bought an st205 finaly that I am trying to bring it slowly back to life, the car is in a rough shape but I will be restoring it to it's former glory.
The problem I have is that the car wont start. The pump is sending fuel, distributor is checked, ignition coil is also good and there is current flowing to it the starter is also good. The car cranks but there is no spark on the spark plugs. I have to mention that there is an aftermarket alarm which I have canceled since the previews owner lost the transponder, they had also removed, boost control and guages, such as water temp etc.
I know it is not possible to find a solution on here, but what I need is some guidlines of what to check and how if possibe.

My car is a 1996 st205 uk spec

Thank you in advance

Sorry for the delayed response I have seen you post now. You can find this ducktail in gtfour racing website for a good price.
Here is the link:
http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...uckbill-spoiler

http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&...elica+gt4+block

I found some for the ss3 those should work as well with aome stickers. Of course you can look also for complete wing with blocks it may worth better depending on the value.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-CELICA-GT4-ST...d%257Ciid%253A1
Heres a link although those are not oem. There is also a smocked version of them

One of the nicest looking lips is the eurou but I not sure if it fits on preface or the 96+ models

I have made some additional clips using stainless steel wire bend it in Π-shape so the edges won't damage the rubbers and then bend it again around the rubber and headlight in spots were the oem clips could not secure. Sorry I haven't took any photos hope you can understand the concept.

Thats a great write u! Thanks a lot!

What I did though when I installed my Jdm projectors is that I cut the original connectors and soldered the
connectors of the donnor car since removed them from the car so I cut the connectors as well. I pushed the protecting
boot and use a clamp to hold it in place. Then I removed it and the heat shring tube is not visible since it is hidden in the
black tube.

So I have made my first plastic weld on an old headlight before applying this to my jdm headlights and it seems to work great!
The weld has a bit flex but I didn't add any extra material. Anthough this was made just for test I m happy with the result and
I have order some gray plastic welding rods out of PP which the headlight housing is made of to make a better bond.
What I havent mentioned already is that I have used also a very thin aluminium mesh in order to rainforce the weld.

Here is a photo for your reference, I hope this will help more people in this forum.



Note in this photo I m holding the headlight from the tab and it holds strong, with some flex that will be eliminated by the extra material
that I already have ordered.

The link of the plasting rods:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PP-Plastic-weldi...UgAAOxyrxZR3mKM

I was also googling and I have found this for the 7th gen celica.

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=291587

There are also holes on the 6th gen headlights 1 on top and 2 under the headlight, is anybody aware if
there is a part by toyota made for this reson? I really want plastic tabs, in case of a collision the headlight has more
chances to spare the lens. I guess this is tha way this set still has an intact lens. The front of the car was crashes
but the tabs of the headlights broke and did not took all the impact.

Hello guys its been a while and I m still research my options mainly because you can't find every day kouki headlights and I don't want to mess them up.
I m leaning twards this kind of repair. It seems the mesh keeps the weld solid.

The video for reference

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5wYxfEZVJc

In addition I have found this kit which seems it can do the job,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/True-Power-80-Wa...MoAAOSwQTVV~H50

It seems that it comes with plastic rods to rainforce the weld, and after inspecting the headlights I have found writen on the top of them,

Housing >PP-t20<
H1
Extention >PC<

So I m a bit confused about the material, I assume that Housing is what I need, but what is the extention of the headligh?

Thank you guys for your resposes but this subject was a bit dumb so I ktried to deleted! I m really thank you thpugh for your inputs and appriciate all the help by the people in this forum! Sorry to mess things up!

Yes as I have said above it was a stupid subjject but i still thank you for you respnses! There was no real point on this subject snd it was my mistake to open this subject! I guess it would be better if it could be deleted!!!

I guess your right, now that I take a second though I might opened a stupid subject.
Also now that I have calculated the costs this is neither cost efficient as well!
I admit this was a dumb subject.
Anw thanks for the input, and since many people say good things about them I guess I should give them a shot.

Deleted

You can check this sticky!

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=63523&st=0

There are listed all the parts you need to install them properly

Thanks a lot for your input!!!
It seems the offer their services in good prices compared to cost for the original parts!

And now a more general question i hope i mnot gettin very boring. The polyurethane bushes are know to create some squeak noises. Is there a difference between the black and red. It seems polybushes are a cost efficient solution for worn parts because sometimes the bushes are not replacable but gt4racing makes them for most of the joints.

Thanks a lot for your input!!!
It seems the offer their services in good prices compared to cost for the original parts!

And now a more general question i hope i mnot gettin very boring. The polyurethane bushes are know to create some squeak noises. Is there a difference between the black and red. It seems polybushes are a cost efficient solution for worn parts because sometimes the bushes are not replacable but gt4racing makes them for most of the joints.

Thanks a lot guys for the tips.
I had seen a video on youtube that repair the headlights taps with plastic weld. In fact he used a stainless steel mesh and he heat it with a tool similar tonsoldering iron. Then when the mesh sink it to the plastic he added more plastic by a rod. From what I have realised the key to a strong weld must be the bonding plastic that makes the weld.
The bad think with my situation is that all my taps are broken on the left low beam.

Thanks a lot BonzaiCelica.
Thats an economical way to maintenance the SSS.
Btw is anyone can review their work?

Also the leg of the superstrut suspension is possible to create some llay over the years. I know the bc coilovers are welded on this leg but if this is possible then it might require some welding again if you find a decent replacement.

Hello guys I m thinking to buy gt4 but I m afraid I wont be able economically to replace the superatrut system.
Are there are any other budged solutions to be done to it if it goes off?
It s mainly what keeps me back from searching in order to buy one.1