6G Celicas Forums

I have ongoing issues with my rear wheels so I'll start from the beginning.

My car used to vibrate when coming to a stop. I narrowed it down to the right rear rotor being bad so I replaced it and the rear brake pads.

Now every time I would brake I would here a squishy type sound coming from the rear end. I would hear it once with every rotation of the tire. So it would speed up and slow down as I did. I couldn't hear anything if I was just driving or if I broke hard, just during regular braking. I couldn't tell which side it sounded like it was coming from, but it sounded like the rear middle of the car. I thought it could be the new rotor so I replaced it with my older one. The braking vibration came back, and now I heard the squishing sound all the time not just during braking.

So now I thought it could be the new pads so I replaced the new pads with the older pads, and put my new rotor back in. Now things got really bad. I started hearing a knocking sound when I drove, and the squishing sound when I was braking. Again they both happen once per rotation of the tire.

So I changed everything back. Now I have the new rotor and the new brake pads. The knocking sound is still there but the squishing sound seems to have gone away, or its just overshadowed by the loud knocking sound.

I looked at my calipers and they look fine, the boots still look they are in good condition. I tried to wiggle the tire to see if the bearing was bad and it didn't wiggle (and yes the parking brake was off). Any help would be appreciated.

I used a come-a-long hook. Rubber end of course as to not damage the tranny. Then I stood on the side of the car and yanked on the strap until it popped out.

If you pry it out be careful not to scratch or gouge the tranny where the seal goes.

I bought an entire hub section from a junkyard for like 30 bucks. Hub works great. I did have to change the bearing though, and that was a pain.

Driveway looks flat, car looks flat, garage door looks crooked. Follow the top line of the garage it looks like it curves in relation to the top of the pic. Thinking your car is leaning is probably some kind of optical illusion. Like the guy said earlier put a level on it and then on the ground and compare. Looks fine in the pic.

I don't think its the clutch. Its predicatable when it happens. It doesn't seem to happen in first gear, and that is where all my torque is. If it was going to slip I think it would slip there.

I also just replaced all my spark plug wires because one was intermittenly working.

The problem I have now is not like that. The hessitation is not real quick like a spark plug not firing, and the engine sound doesn't change like its miss firing. It happens for a couple seconds, and always in the same rpm range (2500 to 3000). The colder the engine the more it happens too. So I don't know what that has to do with it.

In second, third, and fourth gear, when I'm accelerating, I seem to lose power around 3k rpm. It doesn't completely die off, but I can tell I'm not accelerating as fast as I was. After a couple hundred rpms it kicks back in. The problem seems to fall off the warmer the engine gets or the higher gear I'm in. When the engine has been running for a while the problem is a lot less noticable, but is usually still present. Any ideas? Thanks.

Do you have a vacuum leak? When I did my car was guzzling gas.

+1. Check under the timing belt cover. I had a leak at my oil pump seal, not the rubber gasket but the round seal. The oil would run down the side of the oil pump and then run horizontal across the oil pan where it connects to the block. It would drip in several spots aft of the oil pan, and wasn't that noticable at the oil pump itself until we took off the timing belt cover. Good luck.

If you're jsut looking for an axle go to NAPA. I bought a new axle from NAPA for 60 bucks and it worked just fine. Just don't get the remanufactured ones. I bought one of those first and it leaked pretty bad. The axles have a 3 year, 36000 mile warranty or something like that.

I appreciate all the options, but I'm just looking to know if anyone has bought this and knows if its good or not. NJCCMD2002 says its crap, now is that from experience or just because its an ebay part? Thanks guys.

I can't fix it. the motor doesn't work. I need the whole assembly.

My radio antenna motor doesn't work and the antenna has been snapped off. I was looking on ebay and saw they sell an aftermarket universal antenna for 94 celica for under $20. Has anyone used one of these or know if they are any good? Thanks for any info.

9. The two connectors near your throttle body are most likely the TPS sensor connector and the IAC valve connector. The IAC is under the throttle body and the TPS is aft of the throttle body, both are connected to the throttle body. I believe the connectors are keyed so you don't mix them up.

I don't hear anything, Maybe its because my car looks like $hit from the outside. What can I say, its a work in progress.

I had a power steering leak at the high pressure hose connection to the pump. There was power steering fluid everywhere. Bitter's troubleshooting is what I did, and the leak was pretty evident. I just just had to tighten the bolt a little more and it went away.

Thank you for the response.

Will a TB from a 1990 Celica Alltrac 3s fit on a 1994 Celica GT 5s Intake? Thanks for any help.

That's because you have short (two wires touching, or a power wire touching ground) somewhere between the fuse and what the fuse is suppose to protect, or you added something to the circuit and are now drawing too many amps. Its probably a wiring issue and not a part issue.

Do a continuity check between the fuse connector side that goes to the part and ground. If is just a couple ohms or less you have a short in your circuit to ground.

Or try repairing your wiring job so its back to factory conditions and see if that fixes it.

That happens to everyone. I saw that my right halfshaft was leaking out of the end of one of the boots. I was going to open it up, add more oil, and then get a new clamp. When I openned it up I found it had a bad bearing and I needed to buy a new halfshaft. A 10 dollar job became a 60 dollar pain in the ass. But its good now, and I'm glad I found the problem when I did.

I need the passengers side halfshaft in ready to install condition for a 94 Celica GT w/5sfe Manual w/out ABS

I also need the gas filter that screws into the back of the intake manifold and connects to the map sensor and pressure regulator. One of the nipples snapped off mine.

Let me now how much you want for them shipped.

Thanks

The one I have is after market and it was placed behind the plastic just above the pedals.

If yours was OEM parts you could probably call toyota. If its aftermarket, I'd try above the pedals or to the left of the pedals.

Have you always had this problem? Or is it a recent occurence?

The receiver unit should have an antenna. Make sure its free from other wiring.

Your receiver may be going bad.

Your fob button maybe going bad.

That's all I can think of.

I have the same issue with my 94 Celica GT (5sfe engine)

When I cold start it the RPMs will drop and the car will die (sometimes it struggles at the lower rpms for a second and then dies). If I hold the gas in for a minute after starting the car, it will idle just fine after I release it. I would like to know what the problem is as well.

How to get 6V from 12V (V=IR, Voltage = Current * Resistance)

12V --- R1 --- R1 --- Ground

Let R1 equal a resistive value. Say 1 Ohm. The wire between R1 and R1 is then at 6V (12V/2 Ohms = 6 Amps... 6 Amps*1 Ohm = 6V). The Amperage going through the circuit though is high, 6 amps.

So lets make R1 a bigger resistive value. Say 1000 Ohm. 12V/2000 Ohm = .006 Amps... .006 Amps*1000 Ohms = 6V. The amperage then going through the circuit is 6 milliAmps.

Either way you get 6V between R1 and R1.

So adjust the resistors until you get the current value you need. Just make sure you keep the two resistors the same value, and that they can handle the amount of current being pushed through. Also make sure you also use a wire that can take whatever current your pushing.

Place the LEDs in between the two R1 Values like so:

12V --- R1 ------------- R1 --- Gound
.................|.........|
...............LED.....LED
.................|.........|
...........Ground..Ground

Ignore the periods, everything got shifted left when I posted it.

Depending on the LED, the current flow may change a little, just play with it until you get what you need.

Hope this helps.

I would like one with a good bearing already installed, but I'd still be interested if it was just the hub.