6G Celicas Forums

Ill have to check

At a guess, ceramic

Bump

Nope, wont fit, factory airbox is there and that isnt going. Have talked to two people that have done it and have given me the feedback i am after

Cheers guys (: any more appreciated

Indeed, have done that. Tried different mixtures of coolants etc.

I can twll you now it does nothing. Have mapped the temperature with the datalogit .. Not a hair of improvement

One of my friends has done that has the exchanger from a porsche. Is huge adds another 4l.. However it has the same issue of heat soak, it just lasts longer before the power drops off

The top mount is inadiquit for the track. Which i do often. It heats up and power is down pretty quick. I know the front mount will keep about 35-40 degrees intake temp as opposed to 55+

I just want to have some feedback does it open up the top end. My feedback so far from a few guys is no, it just drives like the top mount when its cold. Always cooler

This is an old post casey! Thankgoodness for our fb page haha

Will be upgrading my turbo soon and have an excellent ct20B for sale
Location NZ
Will ship worldwide
PM me if interested thanks

I am shortly about to do a front mount intercooler on my st205.

What I want to know is, has anyone dont this first hand, on a standard 205, and gained a noticeable difference?
Most people that i know that have done this have gone forged and a big ol turbo at the same time making their input in valuable

Please, dont tell me about my friends done it and he says its great or whatever. I want to truly gauge did it make a difference

My issue with the water to air is on the track the water to air gets hot (intake temp in high 50s) and you feel a loss in power.

If theres no real gain felt I will bore my ct20 out to take a 52mm compressor and give it some chilli sauce - and in the process have to retune the ecu. making the front mount worth while

Sell it and use the money for other things. Never had an st205 diff fail. Had a few of them with well over 250ks that have been neglected. Difficult to break. If you did helis or somthn regularly yes i would keep it as a spare..

Nothing wrong with the bc's they seem to do the job. I used a set in one of my 205s and i also used the teins. I guess in a quality perspective the teins had travelled 150,000ks, looked and felt new. Id imagine the bc shocks would last 6-7years before needing a birthday. The teins twice that. Ones from japan the other taiwan. Out of everything twice i have just re sleeved the shock. Chop it in half weld a nut on and put some koni inserts in and your away. Same feel as the GAB or TRD dampner shocks. And can always replace the shock cartridges. Maybe buy a good second hand set of aftermarket direct replacement dampners like the GAB or TRD shocks. Approx 600-1000 nzd landed i have found.

Il currently using GAB dampner shocks really good tho mine are getting old done 150ks or so!

The difference between a standalone and factory ecu is very clear. When you put your foot down the car will boogy not think about it. In the ten st205s i have had i have put a power fc in three of them. My
Current one still has one. It is a must if you have the $ (:

For me the ct20 creeps once you start to make power with say an aftermarket ecu. Even after porting the wastegate path out as the angle the exhaust gases goes towards the actuator is almost a solid 90degree abrupt turn, and shaping the wastegate ports, i still get creep from 1bar to 1.07. There are many factors this could be however, method of boost control/bleeding air, choice of downpipe.. I think an external would solve this hiwever not something i personally want.. Too
Much of a pain

You can use the map tracer with the FC datalogit. Watch what cells get knock and then remove ignition timing from the cell or row. I have thought anything over 40 Is detonation. One of my friends 205s is 290kw and never sees more than 35 on the knock, it is also high compression (320psi per Cylinder under boost). Another friend making 260kw sees 60ish which to me seems alarming, i dont think he really cares..
I usually have sub 40. 30-35. However on the track after awhile have seen it get up to 45-50-55. Which i would say would be knock. Tunning the car on the dyno and then taking it around the track are two different enviroments, the dyno is a major amount less work.

You can set the knock warning to come on between 0-99.. I have seen tuners set the warning at 40.. And some at 50 and some at 60. So what is right? At what point are you really getting detonation. I have thought of using knock headphones however i cant be sure where i could put a knock sesnor in a easy access place that is accurate...?

Id be interested to see what other 205s are getting around the track detonation wise. Mine is standards just exhaust downpipe etc etc amd power fc

And i just got rid of the trd side skirts for $60 nzd loo :0 were taking up space

Bump. Will take $200 nzd plus shipping

Im not sure what it like over seas, but here in new zealand take that ebaring into any bearing shop and you'll get one. Koyo do them, skf, nachi, and nsk. If your here in NZ hit me up and i can get you one from work (:. Not very expensive.

Haha rusty yea im surprised no one knows a huge amount - we are forever having this discussion! Okay well i wouldnt bore out a gen 3 block, i can think of a few that have cracked because of doing this. However to be fair one of my friends bored his gen3 out, resin filled about 2l of the lower block, revs out to 9k. And has been tracked / daylied for the last 60ks. 320psi comp on cylinders under boost. Id say its almost a lucky dip, he hasn't had issues... Tho i know a handful of people who have had issues with cracking after boring them so i just wouldn't do it, too risky..

If your going to go wild with the forged thing use a generation 4 block. These are great. Out of the caldina gtt. These support good power with no funny cracking characteristics.

Its mentioned on the start of the thread (:

Bump

Yeah haha someone take them. Id accept something around this price. Theyll never get used otherwise haha

Sorry guys i am a caveman with computers. Haha

Thanks have sent you two photos appreciate the help

Haha play nice i love em! If only the profile aloud more than 5 cars.. Second hand engines is a gamble, from my experience there are plenty of 3s engines that dont go as they should. Here in NZ id say half the 205s drive like a non turbo. Still to figure exactly why. So really a gamble :0, i guess consider into the deal you may have to spend money refurbishing it if you get stung. Worst case

Because nz is the mighty continent!! Haha yep we have a few 205s around

Image shack isnt working for me. They are half sized. White. In good condition.

Send me a message if interested and i will email a photo to those that genuinley want to buy them