6G Celicas Forums

It's black due to the people at work.. I got the rear bumper repainted twice already (250$ each time) - people who have no love for cars don't care about who they scuff.. There's nothing worst than a big black streak mark on a white bumper..

So the third time, I said fuq it, just replaced both front and rear to the unpainted bumper. No paint to scuff, problem solved.

Don't look too bad, especially if one adds a CF fiber hood.

As for an SR20 swap, why would one do that considering the QR25 CVTC is a torque monster (SR20 has a lot less HP and torque) ? Moreover, we cali peeps can only swap in engines of the same year or newer (the SR20 is on older than '03 cars).. The only swap I would want to do is an SR20DET swap <-- but that wouldn't make sense as they never released those here..

check out a vid of a SPEC with SSR Engineering's Turbo Kit

check out this dyno by FIR's turbo kit



It's running at Stock Internals with 8.5 PSI - so much good stuff for non-cali peeps

AEBS will be showing their Turbo Kit for the QR25 this September 20th at San Diego during their Mossy Show..

Hello,

I gave up on ever getting a CARB approved turbo so I just went out and ordered an SRT-4.. I now have my SPEC-V for sale, it's cloud white. Has around 5,500 miles.. 2003 - bought from dealership 3 months ago.

Nte that there's 5 companies making turbo's for the SPECV (aftermarket is now getting better).

Standard Specs:
Moonroof
2.5L I4
6-Speed MT
175 HP / 180 lbs/feet Torque
17" Wheels with Z Rated Conti tires
LSD

Has the remainder of the 3 year / 30K bumper to bumper & 5 powertrain warranty.

The car wasn't modded (it's my daily driver), the only thing I've changed on the interior was the speakers.. Replaced the fronts and the rear 6 ½" with Sony XPLOD (3 way up front, 2 way at back).

For pictures check out http://www.pocketbuddy.com/specv

The kelly blue book value on the car is around 15,300$, so 14,500$ is a good price (I still owe 17,800$ on the car, but will just pay out the difference - still cheaper than having the dealer rip me off another asshole using it as a trade-in).
If interested, PM me.

QUOTE (Cragspider @ Jul 30, 2003 - 10:43 AM)

Well guys, some of you all have some good ideads and points. Now about the SRT-4 sorry but I don't care if its got a killer engine, its still a domestic and a neon.

It's still a NEON but in LOOKS only as the *DRIVETRAIN* is totally different <-- isn't the drivetrain what's important?

As for being domestic, alot of peeps believe this is a car done right..

got 20K? snag yourself a DODGE NEON SRT-4 if you want to have some fun..

It's has a PROVEN 2.4L Turbo Engine <-- iron block..

The MOPAR STAGE 1-3 upgrades are covered the the 7 year powertrain warranty

0-60 in 5.1 seconds - 220-240 WHP <--- YES WHP STOCK (Dodge underrated it by stating it's 215 CRANK HP)..

The '04 will have an LSD

I should have bought one instead of my spec Cost me the same once I put a turbo on mine..

It's internals can definitely take the abuse, alot of peeps are wondering if the QR25 can even handle 250 WHP properly (SPECV/Altima 2.5L engine).



change the front bumper and the sideskits and it will kinda look like a 4 door celica hatcback

I finally figured it out..

replaced the rear stabilizer bushings, didn't fix it.. So I double checked it again, noticed that the lower bolt on the stabilizer bar link was loose (had a little bit of play).. So I took out an allen key, and a 14 mm open ended wrench. Tigthened that mother up and no more clunking noise.. It's weird how a lose stabilizer link makes so much noise..

emailed GT-4 but didn't get a response.. Still looking..

Willing to pay 60$ for the whole set (4 springs, 2 front, 2 rear). + whever shipping is gonna cost..

or

40$ just for the rear two + whatever shipping is gonna cost..

G

Yo Guys,

I'm looking for 2 Rear Stock springs for the 6th Gen Celica (mine is '94 ST).. LMK if you have one lying around (make money instead of throwing it away)..

QUOTE (XSTeknique @ Jul 23, 2003 - 8:58 PM)

I heard rumors about a stock ST running approximately 17 sec. on the 1/4 mile.  My best run has been 18.00 sec. flat!  That's REALLY bad!  I have an auto ST with and Injen intake, HP header, stock piping with no resonator and with only one cat (figured i'd redo the piping once I begin project 7a-fte).  I'm just asking for advice and help, so don't waste your time clowning me for having auto.  Also I realize running on 18" wheels will hurt, but damn 18 sec.????  Would an exhaust leak from my header be the culprit here?  Any help is appreciated.  Thanks guys.

u are expecting too much from an ST - 7AFE . Considering you are from florida, it shouldn't be a problem for you to perform a 3S-GTE swap.. Your car already looks agressive, now give it a powertrain that can back it up

Even if you turbo the 7A-FE, it will still be slow, the celica is one heavy mother..

QUOTE (K2_Celica @ Jul 23, 2003 - 7:51 PM)

didnt you check if that was the problem before buying the parts?

well, I really don't know what's causing it because it only happens when I hit a bump (even slight).. The springs were made for the car (TRD Springs for the 6GC Celica) and there's no play.. I checked the bolts and they seem to be tight.. The only thing left is the fact that the rear suspension bushings are shot. It's kinda hard to diagnose as one has to be physically moving in order for the noise to occur..

I contacted the dealer and basically, they sell rear stabilizer bar bushings (for around 8$ each), they also sell bushings for the rear (front control arm only) for around 36$.. The rest, you have the buy complete arms (not cheap)..

Fensport - sells superflex polyurethane replacement bushings for the rear arms

http://www.fensport.co.uk/partsfiles/st200chassis.htm - around 90$ for a kit (which comes with 4 bushings, but then again, don't know how if that's for both sides sides - considering there's a front and rear arm (which requires about 4 bushings total), it's might be per side)..

G

QUOTE (celica6th @ Jul 23, 2003 - 5:13 AM)

What bushings?

all of them.. The suspension makes noises after you get some mileage on the car..

I was able to get rear stabilizer arm bushings from the dealership (8$ each - need two)..

They told me that you have to buy the arms themselves as they don't sell the bushings individually..

(Well, they do sell bushings for the front arm of the rear - 36$ each, but not the back arm)

I contacted, http://www.fensport.co.uk/ - they sell polyurethane bushings for our cars but they tell me that it's hard to replace em (need to melt the old bushings out - then vice the new ones in).. For some reason, we weren't on the same page.. They refered to the bushings as "bushes" <-- shrubbery? wtf.. eheh

Update Found em: http://www.fensport.co.uk/partsfiles/st200chassis.htm

Around 89$ (before shipping)..

G

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 23, 2003 - 7:56 AM)

funks, i know what ur talking about,....i have the same thing in my car......sway bar links...the bushings are AWFUL.check yours, bet they're wasted too..

hmmm, I bought some sway bar bushings from the dealer today (the bushings that attach the rear anti roll bar the frame, not the links themselves) - won't get them in till tommorow..

Do I have to replace the bushings on the links themselves? or just the bushings holding the sway bar to the frame?

Do you guys happen to know where I can buy replacement bushings for the rear suspension?

QUOTE (K2_Celica @ Jul 22, 2003 - 9:18 PM)

double check to make sure all the bolts are tight from when you took apart the suspension, same thing happened to my dads mustang when we put his suspension kit on, one of the bolts to the shock wasnt torqued down and it came loose, popped out, and he got the same clunking noise from the bottom of the shock hitting against the mount, i bet you have similar to the same problem

hmmm, I don't think the strut is bottoming out as even on slight bumps it does it.. sounds like a thump - thump.. The rear suspension has what looks like an anti roll bar.. I thinking that the bushings holding it onto the frame has worn out and is what's causing it..

I'll double check the bolts and replace the rear stabilizer bushings and see if the noise disappears..

I have 160K on my car but then again, I've gotten the shocks/struts replaced with KYB's about a year and a half ago (when I got my TRD springs installed)..

Hello,

Any of you guys who lowered you car (my car was lowered using TRD springs) hear a rattling on the rear end from time to time? I removed everything from the back including the spare tire / jack and etc but the rattling still occurs..

Any ideas on what can be causing it?

I got the following car for sale (SoCal)..

Has 4 Enkei 17" wheels, MB Quartz (tweeters and mid) + Boston Acoustics speakers (rear), a HiFonics AMP, and a Jensen MP5310 CD/Receiver MP3 player, note that car was also lowered about an inch using Toyota's CELICA TRD Performance springs.. New 215/45/ZR17 tires..

Color: Red
Condition: Very Good
Transmission Type: Manual
Mileage: 160K (Freeway)

Power Windows / Door Locks
Security System/Alarm
A/C
Power Steering/Tilt
Cruise Control

The following maintenance was done recently on it (past 6 months).. Made sure Starter was replaced, Front Disc brakes Replaced, Rear Drum brakes machined, Timing Belt Replaced (I'll ask my Toyota Dealership to see if I can get a printout of the maintenance record for the car) and major service done, new battery. Always had timely oil changes every 3-4K miles.

For pictures...

Asking Price = 5,000

I'd say, if you live in a state where they down freak out about engine swaps, then do it.. Swap the engine, replace the struts, vacuum lines and etc.. A much more cost effective solution..

If you live in Cali then just buy a new car..

Hmmm, a SRT-4 (for around 19K) or a SpecV would be fine. I bought the spec (around 16K) and you can definitely feel the power it puts out (lots of torque - well coming from an '94 ST, one can definitely tell the difference) + turbo kits are now coming out..

The dodge is one killer car, it dynos at around 230-240 WHP (it's quite underrated by dodge in the HP department).. It's stage 1-3 mopar turbo update kits don't void it's 7 year powertrain warranty which is always a good thing

what are you guys bitching about? Considering a new CAR will cost alot more..


It's a toyota afterall, maintain it - should add a lifetime to the car again..

QUOTE (celi_st_racer @ Jun 30, 2003 - 11:44 PM)

i looked the value up on kelly blue book.. its 6k flat... and if it totals.. ill take all my aftermarket off (including that expensive ass spoiler) and give the insurance the bone stock pile... i just hope if it is they'll give me at least 5k.... and if it isn't .. im goin cheap labor and cf hood, maybe gt-4 bumper... but everthing depends as of now

Here's a plan, if it's totalled and insurance is planning on giving you 5K,

buy MINE - 4700$

http://www.pocketbuddy.com/Celica

then part out your Celica to the peeps here looking for parts then use it to pay for the 3S-GTE upgrade

whoagh, you didn't buy a clip?