6G Celicas Forums

Bottom of the radiator? On the 7AFE, the coolant temp sensor is on the thermostat housing. That sensor is brand new.

I'm thinking the relays might be stuck.

My last issue with the car.


Engine fans automatically come on when the battery is connected.
The only way to turn them off is to cut the power.

I can pull the relays. I can disconnect the battery. I can disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the fans.

The two fans come on with the key in any position.
I don't see any broken or spliced wires, and the sensors on the engine atleast look good.


Any help would be appreciated.

7A and 4A both use 212mm 6 bolt flywheels. The 1ZZ also uses the same flywheel.

The 2ZZ uses an 8 bolt.

My experience in this is from owning a 4AGE20V and wanting a new flywheel when I replaced my clutch. Parts stores carried the 8-bolt, but no 6-bolt flywheels.

Update on where the bumper is? I haven't heard from you in a few days, man.

Bought 4mdabay's rear bumper, and picking up a trans cable bracket from dennshin. Just got to wait for them to get here.

Fixed some grounds, so now the car won't stall when the battery's disconnected.

Tightened up the exhaust manifold bolts, so no more leak.

Power steering pump is still leaking, need to get new crush washers for that.

Still can't pull the key out of the ignition until I disconnect the battery. Going to tweak the neutral safety switch in a bit to see if that solves the issue.

I'm missing the bolt that goes through the rear transmission mount, so there's a bit of vibration. Mount looks good though.

Also missing the clip on the axle boot, and I'm pretty sure it's not lubed. Good thing I towed it to my garage instead of drove it.

Money sent on that rear bumper.

Edit bump.

It's against Carfax's TOS to give reports away. They can fine the account holder and the forum. Just an FYI.

I'm waiting on a check to deposit, should be able to send the money Saturday.

I have a 94 ST with an auto trans.
Looking for the bracket that holds the shift cable in place. It's the one that bolts in next to the front mount, near the neutral safety switch.

Part number is 33823-20150, but that's probably not written anywhere on it.

I haven't touched the car in like a week and a half. Whoops.

Went out to the garage today and twiddled with it.

Tachometer works now. I took out the gauge cluster to clean it off and check bulbs, then removed the speed sensor. Once everything was back together, I started it and the tach works. I'm assuming the speedometer works, but I won't know until I put everything back together.

Either I have a crack in my exhaust manifold, or there's just something on it that needs to burn off. There's a small amount of burny smoke on the #2 runner.
Idled the car for a few minutes, exhaust is a little smoky. Definitely condensation, 'cause I have a black watery puddle near the tailpipe.

Still cannot pull the key out of the ignition until the battery is disconnected, even with the shifter in Park. Haven't found the cable bracket, so I have to push the neutral safety switch lever through PRND2L.

With the battery disconnected, the car still runs, but if the brights are turned on, it stalls. I'm not ruling out the possibility that it's because one of my headlight bulbs are blown.

I also found out that I have a Toyota OEM sunroof visor/shield/whatever it's called.

So... yeah, that's about it for now. I need to install the air box and stuff, look for any remaining vacuum leaks, and fill the tires before I can take it for a test drive.

That's fine. I'd have to paint it white either way. I'm selling some stuff to buy it, just figured I'd show my interest in it.

Rear bumper primer black, as well?

There was a black box behind the bottom dash / crash pad. It visibly said "PROLOCK" on it. Google told me that they went out of business in '07, and never sold replacement keys. The box itself was attached to ground, with a red wire and blue wire spliced into the ends of the Black/White starter wire.
I removed this box, reconnected the starter wire, and it cranks up. No starter fluid needed anymore, either.





Thank you so much, man.
#2: Do you happen to have a picture or part number for that bracket, or know where I can buy one? I can't shift gears without it.
#3: The speed sensor is connected. That's the first thing I checked. I haven't run electrical tests on it, though. I will be doing that today.
#12: As soon as I hook up the battery, the fans come on. They will not turn off at all, unless the relay is removed or the battery is disconnected. I cannot see any wire spliced in the fan connector.

Found out why it wouldn't start with the key: Prolock immobilizer, and I don't have the keyfob to that. Cut it out and spliced the starter wire back together, and it fires up.

This is the entire EGR set up for a 94 7AFE.
I have a JDM engine and cannot use any of this stuff.

This includes the hard pipe, EGR valve, vacuum modulator, control solenoid (90910-12141), VSV (90910-12169), and some miscellaneous brackets and hoses.

The car these came off of has 104,000 miles.

$100 shipped, or best offer.

These are neither the TPS or IAC. Both of those connectors are hooked up. The TPS connector is also black.
I'm thinking they belong to either the idle-up valve, EGR vacuum modulator that now is useless, and/or the vacuum switching valve.

I really appreciate the answers you guys have given me so far.

I've owned 5sfe and 5sge powered 5th gens, and a 4age 20v ST.
Since driving that 20v, I've been a die hard fan and wanted to mate that head to a 7a block, with possible mods for turbo.
Granted, my dream build isn't the most economical, but it's been done and is pretty unique (plus I think it looks more awesome than a 3s).

Are there two wires that go to the chassis ground on the passenger side? One is already connected, but like I said, is attached to the valve cover where it may not belong.

I have two sensors left to hook up, but I honestly haven't looked at them. I just had these pictures and since I'm already online, I figured I'd post 'em up.

Manda was nice enough to send me some pictures, so I'll be looking through them and comparing engines.

Updated 1/14 @ 6AM (who needs sleep when you have an awesome project car?)

Okay, since this place has all the 6th gen experts and is obviously more generation-specific than my native CelicaTech, I'm going to post some pictures of things I'm just not sure about... if for nothing else, than to log my questions in a productive place. I have searched but yielded no solid answers to my many questions, but if I happen to find answers, I will post them here. I have the manual available on CelicaTech, as well as access to AllData/ShopKey.
The subforums here are pretty broad, so please excuse me if I'm posting out of place.
I have pictures to accompany most of my questions, and will be linking to them instead of using IMG tags. The pictures are 960x540 or 800x600.

A little background on the car: I purchased this 104k-mile 1994 ST automatic coupe from a local for $500. I have experience with the 5sfe, 3sgte, and 4age20v engines... so I figured this would be a walk in the park. Car hasn't ran in some 7 years. There was an issue with the crank pulley supposedly being welded to the block on the old engine, so it was replaced with a ~30k-mile JDM 7AFE. The engine is bolted into the bay, and kind of runs. There were some cut/spliced wires around the engine bay: one was at the starter, wired to a push button, another at the neutral safety switch on a black and yellow wire. I pulled both connectors and repaired the wires. Jumping the terminals in the diagnostic port shows no codes.

So here are some issues I'm still having trouble with.

1. Shift Interlock: Car does not start with the key, hence the push button. When I shut the car off, I cannot remove the key without removing the battery.
A Prolock immobilizer was installed, and there was no fob to deactivate it. Removed it, and it start up. That push button was also spiced into IGN 1, which is apparently a bad thing.

2. Transmission shift cable: Is there supposed to be a bracket that holds the cable in place? I have searched toyodiy.com and cannot find a dead-giveaway part description. I am assuming I am missing something that should be in this picture.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0065.JPG

3. Speedometer and tachometer do not work. Temperature and gas gauges work, as well as the rest of the instrument panel.

4. There is a black wire running near the engine bay fuse box.
This was actually just a loose piece of wire that didn't go to anything. After I removed the front bumper, I could pull it loose.

5. The pre-cat oxygen sensor wire connector is missing. I do not know where this routes from.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0048.JPG

6. There is a grey shielded wire leading out of the engine bay harness near the fuse box. It has an insulated white wire inside of it, with another wire (possibly shielding).
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0060.JPG

7. There is a teal-ish colored connector on the backside of the intake manifold. I'm not sure what this is, but I haven't looked it up yet. I do not know what connector goes to this, or if it is applicable to my JDM 7AFE.
I think this is an EGR VSV, p/n 90910-12169. I can't find that part number on google, ebay, 1sttoyotaparts or lithiatoyotaparts, so I can't reference it. I looked up the wires in the wiring diagram, which conveniently just says "top rear of engine" without listing what it is. WTF Toyota.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0062.JPG

8. There are two vacuum hoses on the rear of the engine near the firewall that I am unsure of. Possibly a VSV I have yet to hook up. They appear to be connected to the power steering pump.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0063.JPG

9. Two connectors near the throttle body; one grey, one orange/brown.
Grey connector is for the EGR valve that is not used on JDM engines. Other connector is for an EGR Control Solenoid, p/n 90910-12141.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0064.JPG

10. Bolted to the intake manifold is a ground wire connector that I can't find a mate to. There is also a similar connector on the valve cover. One of these might not be in the right place, but I'd like verification before I just start removing things.
The ground wire connected to the valve cover wasn't the factory location. Connected the factory ground wire to chassis ground.

11. Engine will not start without starter fluid or gas spray in the throttle body. Once started, it will stay running. Jumping +B and FP, I can hear the pump running.

12. Engine fans automatically turn on when battery is connected. Only way to turn them off is to pull the relays or disconnect the battery.

13. I found the AC Idle-Up VSV (p/n 192000-3042) laying in the bay, so I hooked it to its mount. One of the hoses goes to the intake manifold, so now what does that other vacuum nipple go to?

That's all I can think, or atleast all I have pictures of right now. Any input is appreciated.

Just a personal preference, but I don't want a 20v in a 6th gen coupe.
My realistic dream build involves a 6th gen hatch, a 20v blacktop head, a 7a block, and a turbo.

I'm KM over at CelicaTech.
Recently bought my first 6th gen for a whole $500.

I'm definitely not new to Celicas, as this is my fourth one.
I've owned three 5th gens: a GTS, a GT, and a 4age20v ST.

The engine bay's a nightmare, and I'm pretty sure I'm missing stuff, but I've got a 104k mile ST coupe with a 30k mile 7AFE (so no EGR valve).
Other than a handful of engine bay issues, the interior's perfect with black and red faux-leather seats and black plastics.

Just figured I'd actually sign up instead of lurking to find answers.