6G Celicas Forums

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Do you have a flywheel?

I'm looking for a 7A flywheel. Please let me know if you have one laying around you want to get rid of. Thanks.

Bingo.

I don't really care about OT. The way I see it, if you don't like it, don't go in. Let Coomer mod it however he wants.

I'm totally sick of the lack of new information and the proliferation of mis-information. There was a time that I cared and tried to do my part to correct these things, but now theres so much of it nobody can keep up. I've said to people many times: "If you don't know what you're talking about, don't offer an answer!!!" This is such a stupid thing to do and all it does it attempt to inflate the ego of the person trying to answer the question and spread misinformation. I don't have a problem with noobs asking questions (if they at least made an attempt to search) but what I can't stand is one noob trying to tell another noob how much they know when in reality they don't know ****. I suppose my oppinion on things is biased because this is what I do all day every day. Not to brag but I know more about cars and performance than many of the members on this site ever will. I think its sad that people like me (and there are others) don't want to help any more.

Many people would probably be opposed to it, but I dont think it would be a bad idea to have a minimum age of 16 for the site. No offense to our 'quality' younger members, but it is often the younger members that cause the most problems. If you're too young to drive then maybe you don't need to be in our car forum?

Anyway, thats all. I'm not sure that I'll be sticking around much longer. If anybody is interested in how the turbo project turns out you can follow updates on my website. I don't know when it'll be finished because I'm working or out off town so much, but its going to be very nice when its done.

Peace out everybody.

I don't remember my rear bar having a bed in it like that...but I could be on crack. You did put the big bar in the front and the little one in the rear right?

At the very least I'd say you have it on backwards....If it ever stops raining here I'll check mine for you.

Hm, how can I put this without saying what I'm not supposed to say.....

It would probably beat a Z06 in a drag race...it doesn't have as much power, but not very much weight either (Maybe 3/4 the power but 2/3 the weight?). Also keep in mind, its not made to drag race AT ALL. Where it really shines is around a corner. A stock Z06 with tires (say hoosiers) will pull about 1.1-1.2g's (a stock celica on factory tires was probably like 0.85g). Thats a lot! We pull about 1.6 on a tire thats not as sticky (toyo RA-1, spec tire). Again, less weight, better suspension. I've been in a lot of cars and these by far out turn anything I've been in aside from a shifter kart.

I used to not give two sh1ts about bimmers until I worked with them. They are really really great cars. If I had more money I'd have one. They're not too bad to buy, but modifying them costs a LOT!!!

Our early fitiments will be for Ferarri/Porsche/BMW/Audi/Corvette. It'll be a while before we venture out of that market due to the cost of the wheels. We're probably not going to sell a lot of $500-600ea wheels to a guy with a civic.

Have you ever even been around a real professional race car before? Obviously not. I'm sorry if you don't like it but its meant to get attention, not to win shows. The more people look at it, the more money the ads on it are worth. I think if you saw the car and what it can do you might understand. This car is the epitome of 'non-ricer'. There is absolutely nothing on this car that isn't done for a reason directly related to performance (or sponsor attention as the case may be). The wing is quite functional, as is the front splitter. The car makes a lot of power for the size of engine. The drivetrain is VERY efficient. The suspension is HEAVILY redesigned. The car is very light. I can't give you any numbers but suffice to say that this car would smoke anything that you've ever driven and probably anything you've ever ridden in.

You are correct right up to this statementL

Understeer/oversteer are caused by a disparity in the amount of grip generated at each end of the car. POWER oversteer is "caused by too much power to the wheels of a rear wheel drive vehicle during cornering". Generally a cars handling is said to be neutral when it doesn't oversteer or understeer in steady state cornering. Steady state basically means you're going in circles and nothing is changing. You're not changing the angle on the steering wheel (its already turned) and you're just holding enough gas to keep the car going, your speed isnt changing.

Not necessarily. Swirl marks can come from a perfectly clean rag. Never, ever, dry your car with a dry towel. It will instantly do this. Even soft cotton can put small scratches in clearcoat when dry.

Nope, this is a 3 piece wheel. There are also 2 piece wheels, and one piece wheels. Any portion of any of those can be: cast, forged, spun, or machined from billet. As you can imagine there are a lot of combinations.

S C M:

Solidworks is a great start. If you can, get some experience on Pro/e and any other stuff you can. Pro is really a superior product if you're doing anything other than solid modeling. With the software packages (All from PTC/Pro) we have I can update the solid model and seamlessly update the FEA model and the manufacturing files. Its really slick and I'm probably only at about 75% usage.

What else do you want pictures of? I'll send you whatever.

Go back to school!! Its a hard road but its worth it!

Wow dude. I don't know what drugs you're on, but I want some.

You're so far off the mark its sad.

Have you ever dynoed any of your 'high hp' mods? Where are you getting all the info on the mods to come and all the power they produce? Please please do some reading before you do any more boasting.

Be careful what you believe. Many manufacturers make false claims about hp gains. Don't believe anything but the dyno you see with your own eyes.

Yeah, we'll be able to do any size and offset you want. They won't be cheap though!!

The centers are 7.8lbs. That doesn't include the rims or the hardware to attach the two. The first prototypes weigh 16lbs which still isn't bad for a 17x8. The later versions will be lighter. I think we can get down to 14 for a 17x8.

The haas uses regular cutting tools. Some of them are quite aggressive. I have one thats taking off 4.75lbs of aluminum per minute when in a full cut. It takes 20hp to run that tool.






Waterjets are nice for cutting things out of flat pieces, but not for something as complex as a wheel. The old place I worked had a waterjet that could cut 8" thick stainless steel. It was nuts. Something like 70,000psi coming out of the nozzle.

It adjusts the handling balance of the car. A very basic guideline is: If the car oversteers, soften the rear bar. If it understeers, stiffen it.

Ok sports fans, here it is. This is the reason I haven't been around much lately. I built these wheels entirely by myself (I had funding of course). My boss and I are starting a new company to compete with some of the high end custom wheel manufacturers (HRE, Fikse, CCW, Volk, etc.). These are our first prototypes to be tested on one of our racecars (hence the orange and green, blah!). The wheels just survived their first real world test at the Speed World Challenge Touring Car race at historic Limerock Park in Connecticut. If things go well we should be offering wheels for sale to the public within 6 months. We will have several different designs, yet to be unveiled, and we will offer a number of different sizes and offsets as well as the option for complete custom one off wheels (for a $$).

Not to brag, but I did these wheels all alone. Here is a little of what went into them in no particular order:

Spec'd out Haas CNC Vertical Machining Center
Learned Haas CNC Control System (machine operation)
Learned Milltronics Centurion V Control System (lathe operation)
Learned Pro/Engineer Production Machining (software)
Learned Pro/Mechanica FEA Analysis package (software)
Developed multiple wheel designs (10 individuals) and evaluated the structural quality of each
Chose the best wheel design based on FEA results
Further refined the design based on hundreds of FEA analyses
Spec'd out rim halves and fasteners
Learned 'G' code for CNC operation
Wrote a postprocessor for Milltronics ML24 CNC lathe
Designed and fabricated Lathe Jaws and machined to specification (took two sets to get it right)
Developed workholding strategies for Haas VMC
Machined the first 10 prototypes
Assembled 10 prototypes

This is just a small picture of how busy I've been over the past few months. There are many details that have been left out. The prototypes ended up at 16lbs for a 17x8. Subsequent versions will be several pounds lighter.

Here are the pics:

I start with a solid 6061-T6 Aluminum Billet weighing nearly 48lbs:

It gets put in the lathe where is is machined into a blank 'disk' that weighs about 22lbs. Over 50% of the weight is already gone.





After the lathe operations are complete, the blanks go to the mill...aka, the Haas:


Here the windows are cut out to form the spokes. Holes are drilled and chamfered for the lug nuts, and the mounting holes are drilled and tapped.




After the center is complete in the mill it is ready to be deburred, polished, and bolted together. It has gone from 48lbs to 7.8lbs.







At Limerock we blew a motor in qualifying and had to start from the back (43rd). Bob passed 6 cars before the first turn, 18 cars on the first lap, and 30 cars in the course of a 50 min race. We ended up 10th and received the B&M Holeshot award and the Sonoco hard charger award for advancing the most positions on the first lap and the most positions during the race. Above is the car in the winners circle after the race.

The rear bar is adjustable. The holes you put it in determines how stiff it is. The holes on the ends of the bar are the least stiff, the ones farther in are more stiff. I have mine set to full stiff. You can also put one side stiff and one side soft to get an in-between setting.

Step 1: Do a search.

The part #? Thats each.

Yes, he is the exhaust king.

If you can afford it, get stainless. Its worthwhile. Check out www.burnsstainless.com for tubing, connectors, etc. They're kinda pricey but they're prompt and have high quality products. Have you ever welded before? I've had the best luck welding stainless with a tig welder. Aluminized steel can be welded with a tig or mig. Magnaflow mufflers are the best I've found. They sound really good (deep and powerful sounding, not raspy), they're failrly cheap, and they're really well made. I would suggest 2.25 or 2.5 for NA celicas and 2.5-3 diameter for turbo celica. I'm in the process of building a complete 3" stainless exhaust and DP for my celica, but its probably still a month off. I'll post pics when its done.

I just happen to have some GZE pistons sitting in my living room....

For whoever wanted to know, the part # is: 13101-16100-02 (piston sub-assy)

I was quite impressed with the GZE pistons. They come from toyota with ceramic coated domes. That saved me some dough!

Edit: Look at me, I own3d the 4th page!

I got some off ebay. I've had no problems and I'm quite hard on them.

And its got a CAGE! Thats the sexiest part!

Absolutely! Buy a wideband O2 and do pulls on the street....just be careful. Get an O2 that will log engine speed and the o2 reading at least (some do more). That way you don't have to watch it, you can concentrate on your driving. Do your pulls in 3rd gear, and don't get a speeding ticket.

It can be done. Its not easy. Its probably not worth the money you'll spend on it. Get an SAFC or an e-manage. Or if you're really good just go full standalone.