6G Celicas Forums

Havn't been there, but I did go to London and Barcelona this month and it was awesome. Go find a Lonely Planet guide book for either France or the area you are going to, I think they are the best.

I saw this last weekend, I'm surprised it hasn't shown up here yet. The top gear guys take a 80's Toyota Hilux (a Tundra I think) and do a little durability testing. Its worth the 19 minutes, so watch it all the way through.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2402060372341641699

hmm security...

1. Use Mozilla Firefox... much better then IE, and tabbed browsing is awesome.
2. Your profile says you are in college, check with you univeristy before you buy anything...

just on a guess if it is umd you go to check: http://www.helpdesk.umd.edu/virus/software.shtml it has a link for mcafee 8.0i for free. Generally these corporate editions from the university are less annoying then the consumer antivirus/spyware/firewall packages.

3. I never have problems with spyware, but if you know a thing or two about computers you can generally get rid of spyware with hijackthis. Firefox and a corporate antivirus should keep the spyware at a minimum.
4. Keep windows up to date no matter what

try www.vwvortex.com, huge vw, audi forums. the 4th gen jetta/golf has 204040 topics.

Easy way to put it F(forward wheels) = mass*acceleration, if the mass is divided in half and the force created by your engine then you will double your acceleration. I'm sure there are other things to take into consideration. As far as how hp plays into that will have to do with rpm bla bla too lazy to make a graph.

try replacing rear sway bar bushings... i think they're only like 6 bucks from the dealer and really easy to change out.

defrosters generally don't go bad and if it does it will just be a single line is broken.

1. check the fuse and relay for the defroster
2. check the switch you should get continuity between pins 2,3,6 with the switch in and no continutiy with the switch out
3. make sure the indicator light is not blown

if all of that works make sure the grid is getting voltage, just wrap some aluminum foil around a voltmeter lead and run it across the grid and see if you get 5v or something

i'm confused what you are trying to do... if you use a 21mA diode where a 1A is called for you will most likly burn the diode up. if you are just trying to isolate a circuit, meaning current will only flow in one direction then you just need a PIV rating of higher then 12V and a current rating higher then what will flow through that wire. just go try a 1n4001 (PIV: 50V, Imax: 1A) they cost about 10 cents.

exactly, i think people keep thinking of "getting energy from water" from fusion (same process that is used in a hydrogen bomb/or the sun) which uses fresh water and salt water to make helium, hydrogen, and oxygen and a lot of energy. but until science can control it (ie not a bomb) it can't be sustained or have the energy extracted.

ya i didn't explain that very well... coming out of the back of the steering column will be two big connectors, connector a (14 pin) and connector b (20 pin) which is how everything on that column hooks into the rest of the car. pin 5 on one of those should be a green wire, and if you can trace it back to that broken green wire then it is definatly the horn. the green also carries +12V the black is ground for the horn switch. those should plug in to that spiral cable that was originally plugged in to the horn switch on the stock wheel.

my guess is that the black wire is going to be the ground for the steering wheel, and the green wire is the 12V from the relay, those should hook into that spiral cable in the picture. I don't know how the green wire hooks up to the spiral cable there no documentation on that. It should hook into that big combination plug in slot 5. those are labled by connector a and b, each have their own number and each pin is numbered left to right, top to bottom with the connector pulled out and the wires facing away from, so if you leave look at it plugged in the number will go from right to left. kinda hard to explain. either way a green wire should be on a pin 5 going to the steering wheel for th horn.

i think the horn is green, but i don't know if it is that green wire

more specifically because i noted your horn doesn't work, the green should provide 12V hot at all times from the horn relay, which connects to a ground through the switch in the steering wheel.

where do 2-13 and 3-6 go to on the st205 cluster? 3-6 on the at200 controls the low fuel light that is activated when the variable resistor on the fuel sending unit hits a certain point. I don't understand why you would tie it to two points on the st205.

do st's and gt's use the same cluster? I know gt4's are unique but what about the others... what did you use as reference for the gt4... or does anyone on the board have diagrams on the gt4. The other thing you need to know is about hookup, the fuel, coolant on st's and gt's are bimettalic strips while the tach/speed are going to be a coil. if this is different on the gt4 gauge then it won't work/damage something. i have a diagram for a us celica but that is only half of the puzzle, you need a gt4 diagram before anyone can help you.

ok cool i was just worried about messing it up, thanks.

I can't figure out how to remove this gear, the chilton's and service manual just says use a puller. I have a 2 arm puller but the arms can't fit behind the rear sproket, and it seems like if it could it would bend it. Any suggestions?

Heh, I'm and senior EE too and love working on cars. But remember unless you can get lucky and score a job at a sweet performance shop, you are mostly going to be fixing exhaust, replacing breaks, ripping off old ladies that don't know anything about cars. At VT we have a lot of different car projects, I'm working on designing a new GM sports car with other universities. You can do a lot more with engineering. And trust me the first two years of EE sucks ass, going into my jr year I really didn't like engineering either, but now I love it after I got to take actual engineering course insted of math/physics/chem/circuits/math/math.

Forward it to spoof@paypal.com, they take that kind of thing pretty seriously. I had that happen to me once too, I almost clicked on the link but then I actually went to paypal and logged in only to find I had no charges.

This might help a little bit:

Here is a link from a guy getting an stock esa system to work with msns -e http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=10564...ight=toyota+esa

You might need to join the board to access this.

He has access to a scope though which would make the job a lot easier, don't know how well a fluke meter would handle ignition pulses to diagnose the link.

What kind of ignition does the 4a silvertop use? After looking at the megasquirt boards there have been people using msns -e and -edis on the stock systems without having to install a seperate vr wheel. I think I remember people mentioning vast, esa, and a few toyota dizzy/gm sensor systems. You might be able to setup a plug and play without having to alter too much on the engine

You don't need it I was just wondering how you were doing the setup. The relay board does make wiring a lot easier. After my friend and I soldered wires onto the sensors I think we did the final wireup in 10 mintues.

what does the data port that you are talking about do? the odbii port?

I'm confused about what you are asking? I would be pretty weary of installing the megasquirt and allowing the ecu to handle spark. It might advance/retard at stupid times and open/close the egr if you still have that at stupid times. As far as wiring the injectors did you get a relay board? Megasquirt isn't sequential so you will end up wiring all 4 injectors to bank 1 and they fire at the same time. Most of the time you only use bank 2 if you have 6+ cylinders or water sprayers.

You could try booting from a copy of knoppix, it will probably be able to tell you a little bit better if you are having a hardware issue. Also try deleting all of the partitions on the drive and running fdisk /mbr, I've seen windows installs not work becuase the boot table was not microsoft compliant.