6G Celicas Forums

What a bunch of whiny pu$$ies.

This is a stupid idea overall... so i'mma cuss and get this post closed. V8 in a Celica... it's been done. google it. Turning a celica into a mid ship... if you have to ask on a forum... you can't do it. Is it possible... sure... throw a load of cash on anything and it's possible. There are jet engine cars out there... amphibious cars... you name it. Whether or not you can do it has NOTHING to do with what people think about it on a web forum... especially if you're toying with retarded ideas. Hey... I got one! V12 in a Celica... with M3 headlights and Lambo tails... and 6 wheels... converted to a semi truck, with a PTO just in case you need to power a tiller... cause it'll be a unique snowflake (i'm so cool)! Originality works both ways.

Prove me wrong... do it and reply here with your finished MR V8 Celica and i'll take back everything I said.

Pm'd about side skirts (and dibs)...

No... the 7A A/C compressor probably won't bolt up. The blocks are different, accessory bolt holes, etc are different. It may be possible to fit the 7A's brackets and stuff so the compressor will fit, but that's just speculation... meaning I haven't done it and don't recall since it's been like 6-7 years since i've last touched a 4AG.

As for the throttle cable, I believe most from a non-cruise control FWD toyota should fit... but i may be wrong. The 90's tercels have a long throttle cable though and that's what i used in my AE86.

Also, the flywheels are different between the 7As and 4As, and vary based on years, and types. Older bigport 4AGs, pre 1990 have a 200mm flywheel, and are 8 bolts. 4A/E/F's (dual cam F head and single cam) of the same generations are 6 bolt 200mm. Later model 4AGs (smallports), 1990 thru to the Silvertop 20V have a 212mm 8 bolt flywheel. 7AFE's all have a 6 bolt 212mm flywheel. Blacktop 20Vs have a factory lightened flywheel, 212mm 8 bolt. However, clutches bolt up the same as the mounting locations are the same. The contact surface of the two types, 200mm and 212mm are slightly different but you can use the 200mm clutch on the 212 flywheel... and even in reverse (212mm clutch on the 200mm flywheel) but I wouldn't recommend it. Use the correct clutch kit. I believe this is across all A series engines regardless of whether it's a 6 bolt or 8 bolt crank. Also, i believe the 2ZZ series clutch kits also fit (212mm so I've heard), but I can't comment on whether the 2ZZ flywheels, which are 8 bolts will fit.

Found one!

I drove one... it's neat

Yes... it's been done and documented... http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=45705

Reminds me of those ebay "power chips" from back in the day...

All I have to say is... lol Auto...

Any C series trans that originally came on an A Series engine. The 7th gens' don't fit... the bellhousings are different. That leaves you with... a TON of options from gear ratios to final drives, to LSD and even between 5 speed and 6 speed... given that the C series trans are probably toyota's most common.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Toyot...ssions#C-series

Apparently you don't know how much a stock cat costs...

Everyone has a "friend" right ? I don't have a "friend" who did mods... i actually did them myself... so speaking from experience...

You shoulda listened to me. Go check one of your old posts if you don't know what i'm talking about. First, you can use an Auto ecu... but that's the least of your worries. There's a fair chance you'll have to redo the ignition wiring. Typically coil packs and distributors use different types ignition timing pick up... so you're probably gonna have to rewire that. In addition, there's probably other differences too... so you're gonna have to research that on your own.

In the end (if you woulda listened to me) you could have gone with a superior tuning motor like a 4AGZE or 20V or something for the same amount of work and only slightly more $$... or... you could have NOT been caught up in the whole "JDM" mess by not buying a JDM motor... which makes pretty much the same hp as a USDM version. Now you're stuck with an engine that is the same as the US version in terms of making hp... but still requires a significant bit of rewiring...

and... no... you can't simply swap over the US stuff... cause the "JDM" motor is TVIS which has totally different intake ports from the USDM version. Sure you can swap heads like Bitter suggests... but that's 1/2 a rebuild. Might as well return that motor (assuming you can) and get a US motor cheaper and easier.

Megasquirt is pretty bare bones all things considered when it comes to programmable ecu's. it doesn't ultimately do everything a stock ecu does, but it does allow for custom fuel maps and some fairly basic ignition mapping... but it takes a lot of work to set up mechanically (for the ignition) and to tune properly.


No. There is not a way of pulling anything off the stock ecu, or rather no practical way. Yes you will be throwing engine codes... or you would be if there was a stock ecu to throw them... and yes it is pointless and a WHOLE LOT of unnecessary work. Essentially... you run the ecu and tweak the fuel maps until the engine runs good. You should do this on a dyno with proper monitoring to ensure correct fuel ratio mixtures and to maximize gains... but this is easier said then done. You could run one as a piggy back over the stock ecu... but there still are no ultimate benefits considering you're doing this on a stock engine.


Not on a 5S... but on a Toyota... 4AG 20V. My advice... stay away... not worth it. The stock ecu with a piggyback is infinitely better for most applications 300+ hp.


Starting your modifications with a programmable ECU is not a smart idea. The ecu should come as your engine modifications exceed the capabilities of a stock ecu... because the ecu alone is going to make a minimal difference performance-wise.

Holy crap that b!tch is jury rigged... anyway... all i was gonna say is... JT2AT vin code is Celica ST. J for japan... T for toyota... 2 for vehicle type... A for engine type (A for celica ST... S for celica GT)... T for chassis/model. This is universal for most Toyota models originating prior to 1996.

Then why not throw in a 4AGE 20V or a 4AGZE or even a 3SGTE? It's the same process...

Dude... since no-one is giving you a straight answer...

There are 2 versions of the 7AFE available all over the world. Being "JDM" doesn't make it any better. Version 1... some versions had TVIS which was a butterfly system in the intake runners designed to increase torque and throttle response. This engine was not available in the US and probably won't be a direct swap... probably because ignition components may be different as well as a variety of other unknowns. 2nd version is what we have... non-TVIS... which can be "JDM".

Being JDM doesn't necessarily mean it's a different engine. So long as the head is the non-TVIS head... you can bolt-up your current stuff, assuming you currently have a 7AFE powered celica... and you're done. No headaches. You should be able to find this engine locally... it's quite common. There are also a variety of used engine distributors... so I would look around first before forking over a lot of money to ship for a cheap engine... and do your research (I guess that's what you're doing here)... cause if you end up getting a TVIS 7AFE and then are now talking about wiring and all that jazz... you might as well upgrade.

Also: the 7AFE pictured in that ebay auction is the TVIS model... so I would avoid it.

You need attention don't you?

It only took a few years... LOLs

But really... what sort of cheapo would go through the hassle of a turbo VZ/MZ swap and skimp on the internals... which are integral to making power?

If you are of that mindset and want to swap in and turbo charge a stock engine... well... you deserve the sketchy information.

BTW... Newer is better... and apparently Toyota agrees

To quote myself from 2 years ago...

To all of the haters and fools out there... reality sucks doesn't it? People all pissed because their dreams of many horsepowers and wanna be driving skills are out the window. This thing is literally EXACTLY what i expected... and to an extent, even slightly better. It has as much horsepower as I expected... think about it. It makes about 100hp per liter without valve lift. That's pretty damn good. The ONLY factory engines that make more than that have some sort of valve lift system. It's a good entry level sporty car... and we don't know anything about the trim levels yet... so don't be quick to judge on the brakes, suspension, body weight, etc... yet.

Personally... the car looks fine. Better than the concepts IMO. Performance is gonna be fine... especially as a weekend track car or something like that.

And.... Chill the fück out with all of the heat people. It's still a Toyota product (mostly)... and might not be your cup of tea... so dissin on the car just shows you got some other insecure issues going on. I mean... ultimately it's just a car.

Generally 2 wires on that back housing in coolant temp. One wire is fan switch. The gauge sensor is typically much smaller and is single wire... usually between head/block water passage. The engine will run fine generally with a bad coolant temp sensor when warm... ****ty when cold.

To all of the morons/haters talking about Honda motors and torque... it's a 2 liter n/a engine. What do you expect? Try an name one gas powered 2 liter n/a motor that makes torque and comparable HP.

To all of the people who immediately think 2JZ/turbo/6 cylinder/etc... be realistic. Their target price is probably gonna be around 20-25K... that's not the price range for a high powered/performance RWD sports car... at least not for any japanese car.

IMO... I think this thing will make 240 hp tops. Even with toyota's direct injection... without some sort of valve lift technology, it's not gonna make significantly more than 120 hp/per liter. The size of the car is slightly larger than an S2000... the weight might be slightly less cause it's not a roadster... so performance will be similar to the S2000. For everyone that is dreaming for the next supra... the history of this car (AE86) was never about high power... but rather about refined performance. You are looking at the wrong car if you have any of those assumptions. For AE86 enthusiasts and track whores like myself (former)... this is pretty much exactly what we expected. A small, light, tossable car with decent grunt. It's all about the driving experience as opposed to raw power. If you really want raw power on the Cheap... go buy a mustang GT... 400+hp for under 30K. In the mean time... just be happy toyota hasn't forgotten about the enthusiast crowd...

That's a tire size... not a wheel/rim size. Wheels/rims are generally listed by the rim diameter, followed by the width. Something like 15x7 (15 inches in diameter by 7 inches in width). In addition, there are other measurements as offset, listed by mm, and on occasion center bore diameter.

To answer your question, No... Camry wheels have a 5x114.3 pattern so Camry wheels do NOT fit. In addition, the tire size you listed (215/60/16) is a fatty passenger tire size and is too big for a celica.

Common Cars that have a 5x100 pattern... off the top of my head, Subarus... Volkwagens... Scion TC... Dodge neons... and they don't all necessarily fit the celica

FYI civic 5 lugs are NOT 5x100... but 5x4.5 or 5x114.3

ppl that always talk about do research sure do run to conclusions quick without knowing so much misinformation in this forum its sad



Anyway... that tire size is about 1-1.5 inches too big based on speedo readings for the celica... but whether or not it'll "fit" is dependent on your definition of "fit"

http://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/2477267664.html