6G Celicas Forums

Here's my problem none of my 3 brake lights are working. I've checked every fuse I can find and none of them are blown. I was going to check the brake light switch to see if it was working but I couldn't find it. So anybody know where that is or what might possibly be the problem. Any help would be great. Thanks!

Just a side note about foam. Don't stuff foam in your tail lights. My dad owns a car repair shop and I had to change a bulb on a car and the dude had foam all stuck in his tail lights. Definate fire hazard. Just don't do it.

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My License is the only thing that rattles on the outside. But on the inside my hatch cover rattles have yet to tackle that.

I have a question concering the interior lights. The ones on the doors are red. Does anybody know where to get new lens covers for those to change the colors of them?? Just wondering. Thanks!

I have a question concerning the rear water dispenser for the rear wiper. First off I bought my car used and don't have the manual. So I'm not exactly sure how to make it mist in the first place.

Question 1: How do you make it mist?

Question 2: Where do you fill it up (is it connected to the front tank or is there a different tank for it)?

Thanks!

Ok I have a question (see if anybody out there knows the answer). I usually drive by myself and when it's warm I usually cruise with my windows down. The annoyance is that I get in click the driver's side button and the window goes down automatically. Yet to roll down the passenger side window I have to hold the button at the same time as my driver one is going down. I was wondering if you were to buy a drivers side switch and installed it in the passenger slot (in the driver's side door) would it work the same as the driver's switch. Essentially could you just get in and click both switches down and they both go down automatically.

I'm not sure on how the mechanics work on it and was just wondering if it was all in the switch or not.

Thanks for the help!

Yes I've read that you've said that the capacitor doesn't work. But I really don't understand why they wouldn't. Because don't they store a charge much like an alternate battery. Hence when the bass hits doesn't it suck from the capacitor's supply? Yes the alternator will still have to charge the capacitor up again. But it still shouldn't do it from the beginning to the end correct? Shouldn't the dimmin' at least be diminished at least a little while or for sometime until the capacitors charge is drawn out completely? You may be right but my understanding of capacitors doesn't seem like it should do it from first bass hit to last. Thanks!

Additionally my amps got 2 25 amp fuses.

I recently got a 94 GT and it came with hub caps instead of rims. So of course I'm looking for some rims. I wouldn't mind factory ones either. Just some rims. So if anyone out there is selling some 15" rims leave a post or get back with me. Thanks! Not looking for 16" or up. Just some regular 15" ones. Thanks!

I purchased an XTREME 1.25 FARAD capacitor. Upon opening the package I noticed that the capacitor had a + and - connection point. Most smaller capacitors only had a + in and a + out that I'd seen (never seen one for a system before). The directions were a bit confusing. Here's how I hooked it up a positive (direct feed from battery) coming in to the positive and a ground going to the -. I then took a connection from my amp which was the + lead to my amp and hooked it to the + part of the capacitor. I let it charge the capacitor and then started up my car. Yet now my lights still dim as if it's not even getting a charge reserve from the capacitor. Any idea's on if the is right or not. Any help would be great thanks!

Ok peeps here's the deal. I just got a 94 Celica installed my 2 12" Pioneer speakers from my old car. Bought a wiring kit for this installation and everything. I connected the 12 volt power cable coming into my 500 w amp to the correct spot on my amp. Got everything working and then headed to town as I'm driving to town I smell the burning of electronics yet nothing is messing up still working fine. So I pull over and check the amp. The gold plated connection where the 12 volt was connected was rusted looking and the plastic around it some what melted. The wire itself had melted the plastic sheath right around the connector as well. Now the 12 volt wire is fused as well as the amp itself. But none of the fuses blew or anything when it did all of this. I have disconnected it for now and was wondering if anybody knew what might have caused this and if so how to fix it. Thanks!

Snyper