6G Celicas Forums

going through a tough time, dont want to go into details but had to move back to rhode island from south carolina. car runs great has 133,xxx miles. oil was just changed about 1200 miles ago,transmission was replaced a couple years ago, along with clutch,filled with synchromesh,has short throw shifter, new cv boot,new(used) map sensor,new coil,recently changed plugs,new thermostat,coolant was changed and flushed recently, front tires replaced recently, needs back tires, windshield is cracked bad..abs light is on, along with airbag light(think the light is due to bad airbag ecu getting code 13). exterior has some issues, interior has some issues but runs and drives great. i just cannot afford inspection and all that stuff right now. drove it from SC to RI a week and a half ago had no issues. i am able to work on the price but not much....will not ship, i will now allow a courier to get the vehicle. (no emissions or inspection down there) be a good project car or engine swap candidate.

i am needing 1500 OBO for this car...it is located in southern rhode island... i just need something already inspected with cash left over for registration and pay for a few months of insurance while i secure a job....life sucks right now..dont want to get rid of it but no choice as i dont have the cash to fix the issues wrong with it... clean title, title in hand. thanks for looking can pm me and we can go from there.

pictures are located at: http://imgur.com/a/rcXgs#

sorry for the attitude, im just to the point where i hate working on cars now...especially when something should be so simple to diagnose and its not as simple as it seems. i figured out the issue, was the coil gone out and needed a thermostat.

part of the attitude was issues in my personal life so sorry for projecting it on you guys....i am no longer in SC i was forced not by my choice to move back to RI.....this car may be up for sale but i am not sure yet...i need to get a new windshield, abs sensors and airbag ECU before i even attempt to pass inspection which is something i totally forgot about....just a crappy time in my life where i basically need to start over as if i am 18 years old again....

mad aint even the word, im to the point of about to leave it in a parking lot with the keys in it and hope it gets stolen....

IAC is new aftermarket(easier to remove TB to install the part with tb on). i cannot afford most dealer parts. TPS is from the salvage yard(from a wrecked corolla),new coolant temp sensor, yes i know what one is what...., used(from a parts place that tests their parts) map sensor(helped a tiny bit). i get no codes during normal operation(yes CEL works) i use test mode and still get code 31... only when warm it will set the code.

the ignition primary tests 1.5 ohm secondary is 12.51 kohm secondary. ive replaced nearly all vacuum hoses. injectors are all fine in terms of resistance, all click the same rhythm with a stethoscope..of course would help if toyota made an easy test port for fuel pressure....dont have access to a tester.

im to the point now where im not going to buy a part unless i am 100% sure thats part of the problem...im tired of the "it might be" "it could be" "have you done this"

i have searched and searched and searched, im not searching anymore #1 most search features suck ass and dont give the results you want #2 most threads dont get an answer or the OP never replies if the problem was fixed or not...

nope not the issue..ill figure it out myself as i always do....

would be nice if someone here let me know there was a test mode for the ECM...again got more help on a firearms forum then here....hey thats typical firearm owners are the nicest and most helpful bunch of people i have ever been around. so this is another reason WHY I DONT POST HERE! try to help others but when i need the help i dont get it....typical for people now a days dont give 2 ****s about helping others unless they are paid for it....so with that said dont expect me to be around anymore.(not like i was before)

yes it has a intake, but ID of pipe is about the same ID as stock air hose. and its been on for a year or two with no issues....this only happens when engine is warm...but obviously nobody has a clue here, im getting more help on one of my gun forums.....

yes it was not replaced for that long, it has been replaced as i stated, other wise why would i state that made the biggest difference....i did state every thing i have replaced or tested.

also guys i dont ask questions unless i have run out of options which i have, i dont have the cash to just throw parts at this thing. i have searched and searched for hours on end and still no information that would help figure this issue out...

the car is a 1994 celica ST manual 1.8,not california emission,. 131,xxx miles video below as well

so this started about 2 weeks ago and have been running in circles. the car was fine when i drove it one day, later on that same day died and would barely run, managed to get it home.

currently the car is fine until it heats up once that happens when you stop and go take off in first gear as usual it will start off fine sometimes, sometimes just bucking and need to increase revs. then can continue to get up to speed sometimes, other times it will start the bucking/lurching untill about 3500 rpm. then it will drive fine once your say set at 45-60mph with cruise locked and will be fine. only happens uppon acceleration or punching the throttle from a dead stop (not like i do that anyways as i granny drive most of the time). idle sits at about 1100-1200 rpm while warm, noticed my fans dont come on even when sitting there (as you can tell by my temp) while driving the temp is pretty low (about 1/8" from the Cold mark).

parts i have replaced/tested as good:

timing belt is fine i do believe.

condenser melted, replaced with one from the original distributor that was on the car (i replaced the distributor as it decided to eat up a pickup coil with one from salvage yard)

plugs,wires,distributor cap,rotor all good

ignition coil tests on the higher end of the scale when at around 68F, primary goes out of range when heated with heat gun

pickup coils test good while about 100f or so

fuel filter(was the original one! this one made the biggest difference),fuel pump strainer/filter

idle air control valve is new, grabbed a throttle position sensor that tested good from the salvage yard, still tests good using methods in the celica BGB

cleaned throttle body and all passages inside of the throttle body

replaced most of the smaller vacuum lines/no vac leaks

tested/cleaned egr valve it dont stick at all.

map sensor should be fine

coolant temp sensor replaced with a spare i had was from another celica but tested out fine.

fuses are all fine

fan is not turning on for some reason?

o2 sensors im confused on how to check them through the diagnostic port, i did manage to get constant voltage fluxuations though more than 8, which i believe is good? but voltage is more than 0 V at 2500ish rpm. so unsure on that.

no check engine light or codes besides the abs(sensors were trashed) and airbag(will get around to replacing center module) lights

so thats what has been done, just driving me nuts as i cant figure this out! car has never given me this much trouble before. thanks guys hope i can figure this out....

heres the video:

http://youtu.be/lhpMncDY7Hc

BUMP

bump. if you need the metal pieces the ropes hang on let me know i have those i will throw in, the clips that hold the rear of the cover run around 9$ each from the toyota dealer i cannot for the life of me find the part number of the part on the pages i looked at that had the correct parts diagram but working on it for whoever buys it.

people really dont trust others...i would buy it for 1500 if i had it, worth that in parts alone for a rust free body.

i did find out, theres companies that will do the title crap for you for 150$ so thats another option. http://broadwaytitle.com/ is one i found that does it....im not that trust worthy with others either, however, im betting there is a 95% chance the owner is a marine. but if you look at the house the guy lives in, i doubt someone stealing cars would live there, this area is mostly marines and retired folks, there are a bunch of bad seeds like anywhere and if they were to steal a car they would not sell it here, they would go to savannah,ga(45 minutes) or atlanta and bring it to a chop shop not try to sell it openly.

i doubt its stolen, we dont have a stolen car problem around here. from what the post said they was going to use it as a track car which i do believe, so thats why he didnt put the effort forth for the title, and he bought it from a sick friend who has passed on before he got the title.but im betting you contact the family and get a copy of the death cert. and you have a bill of sale with original owners name or a copy of that original bill of sale you should be able to get a title replacement. also, if someone was going to comit a felony, i doubt they would steal a ST185 not worth that much in that condition. theres much better cars around here to steal with idiots leaving their 50-70,000$ cars running with keys in the ignition. as i said there is not a big stolen car problem around here. also a quick call to the beaufort county sherrif with the vin number would tell you if its stolen or not so that is the least likely issue, and i dont think its hard in this state to get a replacement even if the vehicle is not 25 years or older. title issues can vary by state...like i said if someone is interested i could check it out(if still available) and grab the vin and see if all the vins match up and see if any frame work was done.

yeah the extra grand for the title is stupid, if i would buy it i would ask for the contact information myself dude is just trying to get extra money when the car is not worth 2500 in that condition.

still available. $30+ shipping.

lowered price to 40$+ shipping. the way i work with shipping is i charge actual cost rounded to nearest 25 cents(its weird i know) and i will refund the difference back in shipping because the cost at the store sometimes is cheaper but id rather have too much then not enough. shipping is around 25$ due to the size not the weight as its only 5.5-6lbs including a box and packing.

ok so i was flipping through craigslist last night and came across a good deal i think, too bad i dont have the freaking cash! but id rather see a celica guy pick this up because it needs some work. if anyone is interested and contacts the seller if you come down here would be no issue if you need help getting to the guys place(i do not know him or am affiliated with him) but as i said would rather see this go to a celica guy then an idiot around here who will just let it sit and rot. anyways the interior is thrashed but exterior seems to be in really good condition, engine dont look too bad but looks like it needs some work. but anyways heres the link!

http://hiltonhead.craigslist.org/cto/3717547356.html

honestly digital camo on a car will not look good. maybe on a off road truck or something, or maybe a hotrod made to look like a war plane camo might look good on. but a celica? no wont look good. now with all that being said and all the replies, it is YOUR car, YOU paid the money for it, so YOU can choose what you want done to it, even if you want to make it look like the "dragon" corvette thats your choice no matter how many people point and laugh. maybe photoshop the stripes on your car so you can get a feel for what it looks like. if you dont like it, throw them up on craigslist for rocker cover vinyl strips some of the offroad guys put on.

cannot build one unless you know how to make a mold of a rubber part then make a casting from that mold using rubber. be best to find one used as i think new they run over 20$ each, i got mine for free from the salvage yard they didnt know how to price them as the weather strip cost would not be correct. so just said take em.

forgot i had this hatch tray/cover or whatever you want to call it. i never liked these in any hatch's i had so i have no use for it, this item is not perfect but its in good condition, the flaws are shown in the pictures, one of the corners was cracked but it was repaired with epoxy. i dont have any of the tabs or mounting items, but i know those can be had cheap direct from toyota. i will start the price at 40$ plus 25$ shipping via ups(actual shipping cost due to size) but i will entertain any reasonable offer and i am easy to negotiate with just want this out of my spare room. do not be affraid to send an offer, worst i can say is "no thanks" or "let me see what other offers i get".... thanks for looking and hope to make a deal!

header would be easier to just grab on ebay and extend the downpipe, buy it for a 7afe corolla. for other parts, check car-part.com and see if any salvage yard near you has the parts(that site is how i found my transmission) some people try to charge new or maybe 10% cheaper then new for used parts and i dont understand it. i have no clue how far leesburg is from savannah but i know they have no celicas. they had one once, and i offered to buy the car without a title and didnt want to do it, week later it was crushed when i still needed parts from it....

for the wiring harness you dont need one from a celica, most of the harness ends are the same for alot of the same make of car(would not be cost efficient for companies to have different connectors made for every single different model they have) just take a picture of the harness and go to the salvage yard and rip one from a different model car like a geo prisim or corolla. that would be the easiest option for the harness, for the signals i THINK ones from a 90-93 celica will fit but not 100% sure. but could find the clear ones on ebay. just trying to help you out while trying to save you some cash. good luck!

SOLD PLEASE LOCK/CLOSE THANKS!

price is now 25$ shipped in con. US. OBO.

well i forgot i had these untill i was looking through my junk shelf(you guys have a junk drawer, i have a junk SHELF, or should i make it plural and say shelves) and found the door tweeter pods. they are in good condition. the grilles are painted silver as i planned to put them in my car but didnt, just ended up keeping my pods i made myself. but i can paint them back to flat black if you want for no extra charge. and will give pictures on request. the price im guessing is 30$ shipped OBO in the continental US. if you are overseas/canada you will have to pay exact shipping(i refuse to hike up my shipping prices and i charge the price rounded to the nearest quarter(if it costs say 4.38 to ship, i will charge 4.50)) as i hate when someone tries to hike up shipping costs when usps will pick up priority mail packages for free without leaving the house. send me pm, no use for asking for shipping calculations as con. us is all about the same price for me.

if your worried about trust, i participate in another forum which i have a perfect trade rating there and on ebay.

here are the pictures, i thought they were perfect but guess not, however im going to work on polishing out the minor ones but the deep one at the bottom nothing i could do unless someone wanted em painted and matched to interior or something for a slightly higher price(for the painting not to fix the area)....

alright thanks, like i said never had this issue before and had the bumper off a few different times but none of them was longer then a day, this sat for around 7 days so....would also help if my darn bumper to hood metal trim strip/weather strip was not rusted out in the middle and i could get all the top bolts in my bumper. another issue im having lol. now i know. if its going to be off the car for a long peroid of time. put it back on untill you need it off for sanding or whatever lol....abs is a weird material i guess...

alright so i need someone who does paint and body work for a living, i need a straight answer and not opinions.

anyways i just got done painting my front end(well most of it) and i put my bumper on but it was such a pain to put on now, its like it shrunk a tiny bit or something, now note i did not paint the bumper on the car i removed it and just set it up on two lawn chairs. for paint i did lacquer on top of mostly factory paint(good bit of it was removed from prep work) but nothing else was different, the shrinkage was not too bad but now my bumper to hood gap is not correct. so what i did was get it close and going to let it sit for a few days to maybe let the heat get it back to its original shape. theres no warping going on or anything, and fit perfect before i painted it so im thinking it has to do with the paint or just from the temp outside combined with how i had it propped up for painting? thanks in advance .