6G Celicas Forums

Bought a new alternator for my car but still had problems; turned out to be a grounding issue. Old alt has been sitting and the Celi has been long gone. Free for pick up, I'm in downtown Austin. Text 5133051007

EDIT: 5SFE

They are self threading.

You know, I haven't thought about that. I put on new struts with the springs but I can see how they would be done for.
My ride doesn't seem bouncy though, just a little rough on these roads. And if I push on a corner of the car it just rebounds once.

Yeah I should have clarified; they are genuine Eibach Sportline springs.
I would like to drive somewhere on my Sportlines, then drive back home on stocks.

I would also trade with someone who is on the pro-kit springs if they are looking to have their car lower.

I have sportlines on my car and I want to return to stock. I will do a straight up trade if you have a place and time for the swap and preferably air tools. It's like a free upgrade!

I have probably put around 45k on them. Nothing wrong but just would rather have the softer ride.

I'm in the Austin/Central TX area.

I still have this folks

Get yourself some pennzoil synchromesh gear fluid and see if that helps your transmission. A lot of people swear by it- it made shifting for me so much easier. Drain bolt at the bottom, fill bolt on the side, fill it up right to the lip just before it comes back out on you.

And keep it at the correct oil level and these engines will just keep on running.

The large grounds in the engine bay... battery to chassis, chassis to engine, etc. (whatever it happens to be, I upgraded mine so I forget what the stock locations are.)
Sand wherever the connection is made. The grease will keep water to prevent corrosion.
It's not bad, just have to take the airbox out to get to the transmission contact point. Hopefully it will solve your problem.

I had the same problem, bad grounds. I would sand all of them down and use a tiny bit of dielectric grease for good measure.

Better to swap the base/mount with a 7th gen to avoid hacking and gluing. S2000 or 7th gen antenna will screw right in; use loctite if you're afraid it might get stolen.

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I have the same problem, although it started after someone busted the glass to break in. I think they pried the window out and it pulled the sheet metal out a bit as well; the window gap is larger than on the other door. Mine rattles while driving unless I put some pressure on the top of the door panel. I have tried tightening everything and adding foam to the backside of the interior panel but have not had success.

Still up for sale.

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Old thread, but I wanted to throw in my story for anyone looking to do something similar..
Towed a loaded Uhaul trailer -very near the 2000lb limit- nonstop from Columbus OH to Austin TX, about 1,200 miles.
My car has about 225,000 on the clock and it was close to 100 degrees out during the day. Kept it at 60mph and turned the AC off for some hills, but she did great and the temp gauge never moved.
I love my car.

I forgot about this! It is still up for sale.

Still for sale

i regret taking mine off, even if it was torn. that motor is so loud on the highway...

loved them and looked great when living in the 'burbs with smooth roads; uncomfortable living in the city and doing lots of driving in alleys/brick roads/anything but newly paved highway

oh, and you become the plow when it snows more than a few inches

adjustable wrench, 12v air compressor (it takes forever but it's tiny and useful,) jumper cables, philips/flathead screwdriver, cell phone charger, oil, paper towels and windex.

more importantly: water, emergency blanket, and high calorie breakfast bars. tools to keep me going if something unforeseen happens.

BUMP

I have a stock Toyota/Denso 70 amp alternator from my car for sale.

I bought a new one thinking mine was dead but experienced the same issues a few days after installing it. Turned out to be bad ground connections at the transmission (thanks to the shop that did my timing belt.)

Good condition, spins freely; just a little dirty.
A plastic piece at the main output is chipped (as seen in picture) but it is not an issue.

Asking $30 plus shipping.

Checked those, all are at or under 0.1v

A few weeks ago I had to get my car jumped; came home and checked voltages: a little over 12 running, a little under off. Took it to advance auto and they confirmed I needed a new alternator. Ordered a new one from 1sttoyotaparts, had to wait over a week for it. Got one for the auto for the extra 10 amps.

During that week my car didn't need jumped but acted funny under high electrical load, mostly on the highway. When hitting the brakes, turn signal, windows etc., my tack would jump up and flicker around and the engine would stumble ever so slightly. Even more so with cruise control engaged. Sometimes would do the same thing when stopped at a light holding my brakes. On occasion I would go to start the car and everything would die til I took the key out and tried again. It would (slowly) start but my clock and radio were reset.
I figured this was all related to the alternator, so I waited it out. Got the new one in; it was showing 14.5 volts and the problems went away. Sweet.

Started acting funny again about a week later. Same symptoms, but occasionally the check engine light came on for about 4 seconds when the tack is flickering.

It's throwing a code 14 - ignition system. Now I'm only showing 12.5 volts while running. Connections to the alternator look good (confirmed with multimeter,) belt is tensioned right. All grounds are good and the Big 3 have been redone with 4ga cable. Plug wires are seated correctly. Distributor rotor and cap replaced within the last two years. The ignitor ground is also fine. Back to having slow startups even though the engine is putting out 720CCA (according to the machine at advanced.)

Anyone have and ideas? This is driving me nuts and I have no idea why this is only happening when the electrical system is under load.

Some auto parts stores sell lines in different sizes by the foot. I think pep boys had them last time I went. Just measure and add together the lengths of all your lines then bring it home and cut to size. Shouldn't be too pricey.