6G Celicas Forums

as titled, i see a lot of you guys convery the e153 from rear shifter to front shift ) if that makes sense? I would like to buy the parts you guys scrap and if anyone has an e153 lsd i would also buy that

Thank you in advance

Like this but for the e153

Please delete.

turboxs 6

As much as i'd love to my four bankcrupts me enough as it is, couldn't imagine another

I meant the intake pipe, eg this

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v80/king...090813-1109.jpg

i know it has a HKS mushroom filter i have no idea about the quality of there air filters.

If you want the induction sound without changing the filter remove the resonator box

Do you have the stock water - air change cooler? if so no point in getting a front mount as this is proven to be very effective

Apexi intake is quite good, and bolts right into everything, or if you just want a panel filter i think blitz and trd do one both of which i'd imagine would be very good

no im reciculating and i have the t piece and the air filter thingy (difram)

Just the way it hooked up now is its flutteirng like no ones business and i highly doupt its meant to do that

Revving to 10k is just great but you need to think

How am i going to make power up there? Hence EXTENSIVE head work is going to be needed, cams your looking at i'd say 304 degree duration, and a lot of lift. that will be the key to power if it was n/a but since its turbo you need to think what turbo is going to make power up that high as well? and no lag.

Also the key to getting to to rev will be weight/ balacing light weight rods pistons and cranks, also flywheel will have to be light as hell and balanced insanely well. also dry sump will be a must, got to remove any unwanted weight from the engine its self

i honestly don't see the point in high revving turbo cars but each there own

Simple as title, don't mind replica's as long as they fit fine

I am located in New Zealand but am happy to cover shipping costs

Riser blocks still for sale?

Anyone know how to hook this up? im going from a aftermarket bov to a factory one that has two vaccum lines at the top instead of one?

A diagram would be nice if anyone has one

Just read the whole build log, and wow my 3s feels unloved now

Just a few questions did you end up swapping to SS? and are you still going 4wd?

Anyway great build got to love 3s power

has this been sold yet? curious to see the owner of the niciest celica in nz

ok well there is about 1-2mm on each side of the rotor to the pad, once i use the brakes the piston should extend and fix that gap correct?

So i changed the pads today but when i took the caliper apart the rotor quite literally fell off so i thought that it would be supported by the caliper so i changed pads etc etc and go to reassemble but not there rotor can move around is there any physical mount to the hub for the gt4 rotor

Cheers

ygpm

As poster above me said they could be gen III cam, ( they have more duration and more lift 256 degrees)

They move the power band up more but that would be my best guess

can i reserve number 6 slot will pay this week cheers

That tab jsut bolts down to chasis, there are actually 3 bolts that hold down the factory air box two inside it the other is the one you circled

3" dpipe, 2.5" flexi/mid pipe 3" blitz nur spec r, sounds roar and doesnt drone cant hear it between 90-110km

Hello, first going OBD II is stupid, no point doing that get a standlone ecu.

Secondly, the stock BOV goes off the TMIC to the stock airbox by about 1.5" pipe which you can plug you HKS SSQV into easy as, and the other small rubber tube is plugged into the stock one just unplug them both and plug into the HKS simple. You should get a podfilter set up if you do this though as the engine will suck air through the stock BOV unless you seal it up.

Exhuast wise, if you want power from a 3sgte GET A 3" downpipe and a 3" cat back system i recently did this and you have MASSIVE performance gains, i recommend getting a HKS silent power or BLITZ NUR SPEC R both of which should be very cheap is japan if you go on the japanese yahoo auctions

as long as you leave the stock flexi/mid pipe you shouldnt have any boost creep problems

Cheers

Having been in many cars you have listed i thought i might add in my 2c

I own a ST205 and by far the best car ive ever owned, its fast ( stock for stock beats evo 4/ v4 wrx) handles very well with just some springs, looks the business and with a exhuast the 3sgte roars., only problem is that there is 0 and i mean 0 off power boost.

WRX's are extremely common over in nz and its quite well known the bottom end is gone by 130,000 they shoot rods like no ones business.

Before my ST205 i test drove numerious MR2 turbo's and i can say that they are amazing cars and feel extremely quick but given a wet road and the quick spool nature of the 3sgte i think they are at least 5x scarier than the MR2 non turbo.

RX7's are unreliable and use so much gas ( brother had a 300wkw one for over a year) They do go round corners though and go very very very fast i'd take one over a twin turbo supra for sure ( even over my bias toyota love)

And finally the Supra TT is just mental fast, and it takes BIG BIG BIG balls to drive one of these fast, if you ever plan on modding it get ready to chew rears like nothing else and has tons of torque from 1500rpm

Thats just my 2c i'd say get a rx7 or a st205 but drive them and see how you like all those options in the end its what you want from a car as these are all very very very differnt ( drivetrain, power delievery)

Good choice, i put my blitz nur spec R on yesterday, and hks intake, the car just sounds alive its so raw

Its just like a stock WRX exhaust , not to loud but slightly louder than your normal car on the road.

If you plan on selling your HKS system i'll be really keen buying a exhaust for mine in a week, if you have a BOV or podfilter in you will notice
that they sound a lot louder now that you can't hear your exhaust