6G Celicas Forums

What's up man,
If you say it's not a suspension try moving your rear hatch up and down see if there is some slack in it. I had an annoying sqeek coming from my hatch, the latch was worn so it wasn't firmly holding the hatch down.

The fix?
Open the hatch, take the plastic covering from over the latch, remove the two bolts they were either 12 or 14 don't remember. I took a steel bit bremwel tool and extended the bolt holds on the latch in order to move the latch futher down. Put everthig back together and no noise!!

Not sure if you did it already but...

Remove your cross member, and your exhaust pipe from your exhaust manifold joint to your next joint some people call it the "J" pipe.

After those two are removed there is a metal cover that covers the bottom portion of your tranny, remove that. After that is removed removed all the bolts out of the oil pan you may have to pry on the pan it is glued on there.

Clean every single "Fig Pig" debris from both the oil pan and block, not one sec of debris can be left. Once all the debris is removed set the oil pan upside down on the floor look for bent sides from prying. You must make sure the pan is as straight as possible.

Use brake cleaner to remove oil from the block and oil pan surface, using "Fig Pig" or sealent make a nice solid bead around the whole man passing through the holes for the bolts. Once done place the pol pan back careful not to damage your trumpet place the pan back on the block using the two studs to guide you push hard without releasing any force and start both nuts snug them on.

After that place all the bolts in their place do not tighten in a circle but criss cross to evenly place the pan on the block. Don't over torque!!! grab your ratchet by the head and tighten your bolts it's plenty of torque.

Good luck.

One thing to count on is your EGR valve, EGR resurculates exhaust gas back into your combustion chamber in order to cool it down for emission reasons. That valve can be stuck slightly open allowing exhaust to enter when not needed.

Go to your buddies car and turn the car on, all the lights turn on. It's called vehicle test (made up the name ) basically sends a signal to all the sensors to get a good feed back. Bad feed back and you get a check engine light. It's all normal, another thing. Many oil filters are ****ty and don't have a oil valve, our filters are mounted pretty high. On start up there is a longer time that are engines have no oil then most cars because oil has to pump into the filer fill it up and send it everywhere. Toyota filters are designed for this. Best wishes -Toyota Tech

When your vehicle smokes White cloudy exhaust, it's usually from Coolant. If you say it's a sweet smell, you bet your ass it's coolant. Rats fall for that smell all the time, always fine dead rats on my coolant drain bucket at the shop. I'm assuming you slapped on your turbo without rebuilding your engine huh? When you add turbo it increases the compression, when your gaskets are already worn from normal driving then challenged with boost, it could be that you have a leak in your head gasket, more comenly dents or grooves in your head. That requires machining. But the deadliest on is a crack in your block or head that is leaking coolant into the combustion chamber.

If you want to test out if you really have a coolant leak, get a radiator funnel add coolant till half way. Let the car run until it reaches operation temperature. when it reaches that temperature the thermostat will release the coolant allowing it to circulate. If you see bubbles coming out the funnel there are air gaps in your radiator caused by leaks.

If you're cheap and don't want to buy a funnel, there is a messy way to do it. When car is cold open the radiator cap, fill the radiator till it's topped off run it, it will bubble because you added fluid for only 5 minutes. If it keeps going, there is a leak. When you are done with the test, the over flow will get rid of the access fluids.

You need to adjust your idler, 5sfe should idle at 700-900RPMs. You can adjust it by tweaking your cable that is attached to the throttle body. The reason why it's studdering is because it's about to stall out. Cars can't idle that low not even a ****ing prius haha.

Second, the reason why your idle goes up when you turn the A/C on is because the A/C compressor is run of your drive belts. It uses engine power to run the A/C, so if there is a larger load on the engine, it will increase the RPMs to compensated. In other words it uses up all the Horsepower when you idle so it increases the idle to maintain that same range of Horsepower make sense? This is why races shut their A/C's off because it uses up some Horsepower.

When you say blown head gasket, what do you mean? Are you burning oil? Burning Coolant(Antifreeze)? It won't start? ****ed up noises? Leaking fluids?

Head gasket could be an easy do it yourself project, if not if you live in Mass or near Mass I could do it for you. I'm a Toyota Technician. If not I could walk you through it.

Hey guys, I have a 1995 Toyota Celica GT I'm in the proccesse of rebuilding my engine all new gastkets, seals, and bearings. Next on the list is the turbo, I've been doing homework for the past few weeks and it's come to my attention that I may and may not need a fuel management system for 8 pounds of boost. Do I need it or not? the cheapest system I found was 600$ rather not have it if I don't need it, any help?

parts:
3S-GTE Exhaust Manifold
3S-GTE CT-26 Twin Entry Turbocharger
3S-GTE Downpipe
3S-GTE Oil Pan and Oil Drain Lines
3S-GTE 2 Bar MAP Sensor

Automatic transmissions for Toyota uses two types of oils, Dextron iii or ATF type 4. Gear oil is used on Differentials and standard transmissions.

Your MPG will be effected but slightly, in a internal combustion engine you have a few things going on. First you suck in air the two atoms we desire are Oxygen and Nitrogen. When fuel is prayed into the chamber then compressed the spark plug ignites the chemical reaction between Oxygen and the fuel. The fuel consist of Carbon Hydrates, the Carbon and Oxygen combine together to make Carbon Monoxide or Carbon Dioxide ect.. this fusion of atoms creates a large amount of energy in the form of heat. Nitrogen a inert gas then expands at a rapid rate, the nitrogen is what pushes down on the piston.

The valve simply just returns some of the exhaust back into the chamber to use some of the oxygen and nitrogen maybe some fuel, since N/A engines and can't force all the air they want they want into the engine like turbo/super chargers, we have to come up with ways to get the atoms we need.

To answer you question if the exhaust is not going back into the chamber then your are not getting you maximum power of your pistons therefore more fuel needs to be used to get the same power you expect.

To me it sounds like your Idler control valve has gone bad, this is very common to our cars. The perpouse of the valve is to bypass the throttle body, the throttle body is controlled by your accelerator pedal when you have your foot of the pedal the throttle body is completely closed. When it is closed there is no air going into the engine, thats were the IAC valve comes in, it lets the air enter I'm assuming you also have a rough idle? thats because the valve is filthy and can't maintain a good idle, it maintains a good idle by opening and closing rapidly.

-FiveS-FTE