6G Celicas Forums

i say its a blocked radiator. u may also have a busted head gasket as a result of driving while overheating. i had the same problem just a week ago but now its all better and that was the problem

thanks for that vsboy. after a couple of days it just started returning to normal idle rpms. at the moment in the mornings it starts off on around 1100 then eases off into 800. it sounds normal. i think it just needed some driving to settle or something

I've just had the head gasket replaced on my 5sfe but now the engine is noisy in idle and the revs vary from 1600-2000rpm! It's too high and I've gotta take it back, but it would be good to know what the rpms are supposed to be on the 5sfe in neutral. Can anyone help?

A1
Subs in the doors aren't necessary. I would only get them custom built in along with the speakers. They will give your system some extra depth from the front.

A2
This all depends on the brands. I'm not an expert on which brands make the best speakers/subs etc.. but I'd shop around and see what different stores offer, u can always test out their equipment. Usually the more $$$ u spend, the better the product.

A3
Sensitivity is not dB-aka loudness. Sensitivity is the range of frequencies the speakers have a response to. It's the overall system that matters in the end. Your tweeters will cover the higher range, your front speakers mid to hi, ur rear speakers are bassier, and ur sub will cover the bass and the kicks.

A4
When looking at the amp wattage, if u match the max watt output of both the amp and the sub, u cant go wrong. Again, ask the store ppls to give u advice on which amp, as prices do vary quite a bit depending on power output and type of amp.

A5
Dynamat. They're thin sheets that absorb sound, making less sound escape the car and also slightly reducing road noise. I got it myself, it does work, and my boot rattles significantly less

Do u ever get water/random crap in your engine bay with a custom scoop?

wouldnt wanna be driving that on a rainy day..

Alright, heres the backstory to my problem.. otherwise jump to the end

6 months ago after i took my baby in for servicing, i was told that on my drivers side the CV joint had a broken seal of some sort (cant recall), which could damage the joint in the future, but atm it was fine. They then offered to replace it at no charge because my car was under warranty at their dealership. Great! I happilly accepted.

A few hours later, i come back and they tell me that the new CV joint has an ABS ring on it and the car makes scraping noises when it runs. They offer to give it back to me as it is, and the moron mechanic even says 'Hey, just crank ur music up loud and u wont be able to even hear it!'

Appaled by all this, i refuse to take the car back until its fixed. They say I'll have to pick it up the next day, and offer me a complimentary car, a Holden Commodore (kinda like the Pontiac GTO but only at around 200hp .
I think Wicked, what great service! I get to cruise around in this quicker, more comfortable ride for a night!

Anyways, i come back the next day, and get told everyting is fine as they have 'knocked the ABS ring off the joint' and it's ok now. I grab my keys happily and walk to the car and notice a missing hubcap on my rear wheel (this really pisses me off as they have already broken my 1st original Toyota set of hubcaps the previous service which i was never able to buy replacements for.. but i just ignore it)

I start driving off, and I'm in a rush to get home and to work.. when i start noticing a slight humming noise from that side at all speeds, and it hasnt gone away ever since! I thought to myself, stuff it, ill get it fixed at my next service. I went back a week ago and they said it was fine!

Is this CV joint not meant for my car, can u just 'knock the ABS off' the CV joint? And could they have damaged something by driving around with the ABS ring on? The noise isn't too loud but its hard to accept when there was no noise prevously. Man i hate mechanics.

Same thing happens to me occasionally. I get a squeeking noise from my front wheel at lower speeds. I only started noticing it after i put on my 17s. The guys also fitted on spacers for the wheels.. could that be the problem?

if it only happens when ure driving around, it might be not be ur engine, maybe cv joint.. does it happen when u turn?

Sweet, so the GT should have no problems agaisnt a 2.0L.. that makes me happy

Yeah, i was slightly quicker than a wrx off the lights but by the time i clicked into third he was surging ahead.. too bad the celi doesnt have more grunt in the higher rpms.

Also slightly off the subject, is a 3sge with vvt-i worth a swap from the 5sfe? or would turbo be a better option - performance and durability wise.

Yeah doesn't seem to have any parts specifically for the celi

Because i reckon i can win. The celi would be quicker off the line for sure, and the engines are pretty similar powerwise so i think i can stay ahead..

I got a 2.25 exhaust (not much difference), and new tyres.

And yes i do realise celis r slow but, i still wanna be able to chop a new car.

convertibles are heavier though..

Yeah im gonna have to have a go and settle this.

Ok, these are the Australian specs i have found for the Mazda 3 on mazda.com.au.

Mazda3 Sedan 2.0L Specs:

Max Power: 104kw@6500rpm (104kw = 139.5Hp)
Max Torque: 181Nm@4500rpm (181Nm = 133.5 lb/ft)
Kerb Weight: 1,195-1,206kg (1200kg = 2640 pounds!) lighter you say? don't think so

Performance figures, according to Mazda's internal testing, for 0-100km/h is 9.0 seconds for 2.0-litre manual models. (That's its 0 - 60mph time)

The Celica GT 0-60mph takes 8.5 secs.

On paper, the Celi actually outdoes the Mazda 3 but sitting in the passenger seat of it, it does feel like its quick. Does it put power to the wheels better?

I dont take much part in the 6gc forums but spend time mostly viewing other peoples rides on this site..
So im keen on ur opinions on which car has better straight line performance, the Celi GT or the Mazda3 2.0l.. im curious because my friend has one and the specs are pretty similar.
I think maybe my celi would have a slight edge with more low end torque, but the age difference in the cars might make a bit of a difference as well. Curious to know what u guys might think.. if u even care

even when you're driving conservatively? how many km's do u get with a full tank?

I had it checked out by mechanic today, it turns out that the brake pads are wearing out and the noise they start to make acts like a warning device when ur pads are about to go.
*phew* thought it was something more serious, had me real worried

Ive recently started hearing *clunk* *clunk* *clunk* noises from the rear when im slowing down to a stop, but its only when im applying the brakes.. is this a similar problem?

ok thats good to hear, tnx a lot for the info

Ive heard traction problems being mentioned in a couple of different forums with the swap. Just curious to know how much of a factor this is in a fwd from someone whos had it done.

i'm an owner of a st204 97 celica and ive been researching a lot on options for getting more power out of my celica. the 3SGTE swap seems like the better option over a turboed 5SFE but i heard that FWD celicas with the 3SGTE swap that are useless in 1st to 4th gear because of having too much power and not getting traction till the top of 4th gear.

can someone verify this?