6G Celicas Forums

everyone has a PM

BUMP

I don't at the moment, its more green-blue colour, I have no idea what is it called, but overall car is in good shape, small dent on fron bumper and cracked colour on rear trunk and bumper. Everything else is in good condition, no rust only the tranny gives strange voices

-

Dude, you're from USA, shipping wouldn't be nice, but if you really want them then pm me

.

BUMP

I have the OEM pre facelift foglights i can ship. Do you need the wiring too, or just foglights?

Cmon, noone wants cheap parts??

Everything ordered and payed will be shipped today, still almost everything left, just make an offer please

Bump, noone wants cheap parts in excellent condition??

.

-

Fitting is not the best, but all in all I love them!

BUMP, TRD 3point front strut bar also availible, open to offers

Update, now OEM GT4 rear strut bar for sale, in very good condition, with plastics around it and I think you all know how does it look like.

Picture of strut bar on RPMgarage

For European guys I'm doing 100€ shipped, I paid 150€shipped for mine

wow I want that hat!! And no guys, you didn't miss anything I bought 2004 7gen on 20th of december as early christmas gift to myself with a little help of my father Thats the only reason for selling my 6gc, because its pain in the ass having 7 car at the house

.

,

,

Which seats, 7gen or 6gen seats? And where are you, bc of shipping?

-

I did it that way because all other marks were as they should be, only this mark on exhaust cam was off for one tooth, so that seems like the only way to set this proprely. Today car starts as soon as I turned the key but it has no power then I shut the car and try to start it back and it barely started in 3d attempt. For now the only way to fix this to set thome cam as it was, although this is for one toot off

anyone??

Hi, I changed water pump and timing belts yesterday, and when I removed the head gasket I saw that the timing mark on exhaus cam was not lined up with the arrow that marks where dot must be


^ Here is the image, taken from Smaays topic about building the 7A-FE , I hope that's not wrong. That is how the engine must be lined up with all marks on timing belt. But when I lined up the engine with other timing marks, the arrow and the mark on gear weren't lined up, but the dot on cam was leaned one gear to the left. I don't know if I am speaking in correct language

So I'm giving you a picture of how it was (not the actual one)


After pulling my cam out and inserting it in in the right position, I ended up with putting my timing belts on and everything together and the I ran the engine. I took nearly 5 seconds from turning the key to starting the engine which seems very wierd to me, because my car normally starts right after i turned the key and has an iddling RPMs when it was cold around 1800 and around 1150 when warm. I rotated a rotor cap for about 2° and now car idles at about 850RPMs which is normal and the (I don't know the right word for this, but direct translation is pre-ignition - you know, thoose marks on the plastic cap on timing belt that are from 0 to 20) raised from 0-5 on 10-15 and car gained some power, but it's still not strong as it was before changing the cam gear for one gear. I hope you guys undertand what am I asking about, before doing anything of this my car runs very strong in low RPMs and still strong in high RPMs which is normal. After changing the exhaust cam gear car barelly start cold, has high RPMs , "pre-ignition" was between 0 and 5 and car had literally no power till it reached 3k RPM, after 4k RPM you could feel the BUM when engine got the power. After rotating the rotor cap car got normal idling RPMs, it gained a little power at lower RPMs but still not strong as it was and the "pre-ignition" changed to 10-15. What else to check, or just put the engine back on how it was and if it's possible that engine had more power before with changed cam gear for one gear? Thank you guys!!