6G Celicas Forums

Thanks for all the help. I think I'm settled on the Radio and center console. I'm still looking for the Automatic transmission floor shifter with a boot.

I'm not blowing anyone off, just trying to sort through several emails. Nobody has come forward with a automatic transmission floor shifter if anyone has one.

Looking to finish my 95 ST fixer upper. Shipping to area code 51576. Reply here or email jarasman@yahoo.com

I would like the OEM radio with CD but would consider any unit. A working power antenna is needed. The current center console is ugly and the hinge is wobbly, I would like to find a better looking unit. The gear selector indicator is broken on my shifter and the boot is completely gone.

Thanks man!

That is how the hoses "felt" right. However it wasn't something I was willing to guess.

Someone else removed my rack and pinion and I'm putting it back on, unfortunately the hoses seem to fit either way. Can someone follow the high pressure hose from the Power Steering pump to the pinion and let me know if it is the front or rear port?

The high pressure is the lower hose on the Pump, the other feeds back to the reservoir.

A picture would be freaking awesome. I've lost all faith in Haynes manuals.

Thanks!

No codes with a jumper wire, but the tool picked up Code 42, Vehicle Speed Sensor. No SPD signal for 5 seconds when the engine speed is above 3800 rpm. The book says the issue could be Vehicle speed sensor circuit, Vehicle Speed Sensor, ECM.

It also caught Code 43, Starter Signal. No STA signal to the ECM until the engine speed reaches 800 rpm with the vehicle not moving. The issue could be Starter signal circuit, Ignition Switch, Main Relay switch or ECM.

Not all that helpful, I'll visually inspect the main relay and ECM tomorrow.

I'll dig out the ECU tomorrow. I got a diagnostic tool to try, but without it running or tripping the tach I'm not sure it will help.

thanks...

Yuck, I would rather somebody tell me to check my muffler bearings. LOL

Still no spark, I directly grounded the ground wire in the 2 pin connector. Still no spark. Whatever happened to simple ignition systems.

How do I determine if the ECU is the issue? Will a scanning tool tell me? I'm going to go broke with the guess and buy car repair technique. I did jump the wires in the diagnostic box. I just got a steady flash on the Check Engine light, it never stopped.

Yes the light comes on as normal, goes off during cranking and returns when you come off "Start".

THe car does come on, with no trouble lights.

I'm going to get it back to TDC, and check all the timing matchmarks and the distributor match marks. I can't do much more with the timing unless I have spark and it runs.

If anyone could provide a range of voltages at the electrical connectors perhaps that would lead me somewhere too. I haven't found that data and the page on this site that provides it won't load. I'll probably replace the fuses that could be issues, although they all look to be good.

The car start and ran before I pulled the enigne. I'm sure this is a mess I created. I'll keep working my way through the harness.

I've been through all that testing. Unfortunately there isn't a test for the ignitor. The cost of the ignitor was more than a complete ebay distributor. So I replaced the entire distributor, coil, ignitor, cap and rotor.

Thanks for the tip, everything helps.

I've finished throwing a new 7A-FE long block into the car. However it doesn't spark. I put a new distributor...still no spark. Wires test well, everything else is new. WTF am I missing? I've started going through the wire harness looking for damage, have yet to find any.

Is there a security type of thing that disables the spark? No Tachometer movement either. There is power to coil.

Sorry to blast the forum, but I didn't find anything on the site. BTW this site was a great resource and addition to my lame Haynes manual.

John

I ordered a rebuilt shortblock, with no core required. I'll get the ST running and have a spare block to tinker with. This gives me time to rebuild the old one and figure out a head swap. It is a little more work than I wanted, but seems to be a safe place to start.

Thanks for the information. It has been very helpful. In my experience nothing is an easy swap and everything costs twice what you expect. I think I have a way to ease into the performance side of swap now.

John

Smaay..Dude.

I searched your posts and had 53 pages of hits. You've posted and forgotten more than I'll ever know. I'll continue to search out your posts tho. Most seem to revolve around forced induction. If anything in my driveway gets that upgrade it will be my Tacoma.

I'm aware the rod bearing isn't in the head, but they share oil and the way it smokes I'm assuming metal fragments in the contaminated oil have done some damage to my Piston/rings/cylinder walls. I have to assume the same oil has contaminated my head. IMHO it is engine suicide to reuse the head without some professional cleaning.

JDM vendors continue to overpromise and underdeliver, I'm losing confidence they can provide a reliable product. I will look for JDM venders in the forums that have member's seal of approval. I had one offer on here for a used motor, I sent a PM but am ill equipped to figure out shipping. The best price I found locally on remanufactured long blocks is 1695.

Oddly enough I do better searching the site from google and popping onto threads than searching the site. I'll look for your thread specifically, the site got somewhat eaiser and more informative after I registered and started reading the FAQs and like.

I know the rod bearing has nothing to do with the head, but it does share engine oil. With the oil being contaiminated with shaved metal I would want the head cleaned professionally. I know it has a filter, but with the investment being made I wouldn't be comfortable relying on the filter.

i got a 7a with less than 130 with the auto tranny and all give me a fair price and its urs
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Where are you located? I found a distributor type JDM in Texas. I'm also looking at a rebuilt longblook locally. Not a whole lot of follow thru with the JDM vendors. I'm starting to wonder if they advertise them before they are available.

I'll read the swaps more closely to see what is involved with a better performing swap. Again avoiding the wire harness is a very motivating ordeal.

My conspiracy theory is the "cash for clunkers" has taken a lot of good used engines off the market. I haven't found a decent usdm (7afe) engine. A long block rebuilt for 1600 and a couple 130k engines. A low mile with CA emissions, but still more expensive than jdm.

We got a 1994 ST with a bad rod bearing. I would like to just replace the engine and maintain as much OEM as possible. I was hoping someone had done the same with a JDM 7A-FE. I realize there are better performing alternatives available, I'm just looking for the simpliest. Having done a complicated engine swap, I was really looking for something I don't spend months debugging.....again.

With the Automatic it seems I'm stuck with this motor without adding even more complication. Mostly because of my lack of willingness to tackle a larger project, the only palitible performance option I've seen within these forums is to use a 4AFE head. I have read several swaps on this site and they were very interesting.

I'm looking for a solid weeks work with the replacement engine and be done. I'm good with whatever mechanical issues pop up, but I hate chasing around electrical issues.

This is a great looking $500 car for a 16 year old kid. Lets not tell him his Mom's Traverse or his Dad's Taco has a better 0-60.

Any help is appreciated.

I got the car I wanted back in the day....17 years l8r as a Father/Son project car. I read your rules and crawled all over your huge site. I found lots of great information.

I found a really straight car for 500 and am now looking at a JDM 7A-FE but I was unsuccessful at finding this seemingly str8 forward swap on your site. I've sifted through TONS of great and helpful information tho. My only other swap experience was a Mazda Rotary into a 4wd Suzuki Samurai.

I got the distributor type JDM located, I'm waiting to hear if the injectors are on the intake or head. I have a new head, but with a bad rod bearing I don't want to risk contaminating the newer engine.

Any help would be appreciated, I'll continue to search your site for more information.