6G Celicas Forums

Its a differential so yes it does require gear oil. What weight, quantity and where to find the fill hole I do not know.

I imagine the gear oil will have leaked out without the half-shafts installed, so make sure to drain and refill before driving anywhere. If its LSD these sometimes require LSD additives in the gear oil to keep them from making noises.

Hopefully someone more familiar with GT4's comes along.......

2AZ-FE is not a performance motor, it's built for torque.
The bore/stroke is under square, the head and intake and designed with long runners. It has an impressive torque curve but it was not designed to produce horsepower.

Definitely would make your 6gc quite peppy. Not as broad a torque curve as the 1mz, but definitely more low end than the other 4 cylinder engine choices. VVT-i somewhat improves the top end performance given how seriously compromised the engine is, but the torque starts to drop off over 4000 rpm. The 3S(beams, GTE) motor's torque curves don't drop off till well past 6000rpm.
Idle to 4000 is where the 2az will really shine.

Only trick is to make sure the solder joints are quality, otherwise they vibrate loose.


I was waiting until I could get a laser-printer so I could make my own PCBs. I think it an etched copper PCB is the minimum quality for selling to other people, but then you may run into fewer problems with fewer and larger LEDs

Spray starting fluid into the throttle body with the intake hose removed and try to start it. If it suddenly gets ignition you have a fuel issue, if it still doesnt get any fire you have an ignition system issue.

Ive also heard of people popping timing belts, you can tell by the sound of the motor cranking.

The intake manifold ground runs to the ecu. It goes through the wiring harness, it does not attach to the firewall. On the 5sfe it bolts onto the manifold next to the VSV, Vacuum Switching Valve.

Injectors dont fail intermittent like that.

Check the ignition coil

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...;hl=crossmember
Read this, we detailed the procedure pretty well.

You will need to remove the suspension crossmember and the reinforcement plate/clutch cover. The clutch cover is the wall covering the rear bolts you are talking about, even iff you got the bolts loose the pan wouldnt squeeze out with the cover there. The bottom bolts for the clutch cover are blocked by the suspension crossmember. You dont need to totally remove the crossmember, just disconnect the front and rear motor mount center bolt and the 2 bolts front, 3 bolts rear that attach the crossmember to the frame. The crossmember can now hang down giving you enough room. Removing it all together takes about twice as much work as letting it dangle.

Use FIPG from toyota or RTV black as the gasket for the oil pan.

Summit racing sells shrouds I think.

If I were you I would order a plate of 1/16" aluminum from some place like metaldepot.com. You should be able to get a 2'×3' for maybe $30, dont quote me on that. If you order some angle aluminum, like 10' long with 1" wide sides or less, you could get that for around $10. Then you can use industrial adhesive, rivets, bolts or welds to attach the angle aluminum around the perimeter of the plate. Cut out holes in the plate for the fans to sit and you have a professional quality all aluminum shroud.

Maybe there was one on another A series motor

Would you be interested in selling the 5s? I spun a rod bearing at the beginning of the month, I need another 5s to toss into mine.

Do what Bitter alluded to. If you have a 5spd and a radiator with the ports to cool the auto transmission utilize that. Its just a straight piece of pipe inside the lower radiator tank. Its significantly cooler in the radiator then the lines from the waterpump which feed the stock oil cooler, but it would be hotter than running a stand alone oil cooler.

If you arent in a hot environment(it gets pretty hot here in Texas) than you might not want to even bother.

Do what Bitter alluded to. If you have a 5spd and a radiator with the ports to cool the auto transmission utilize that. Its just a straight piece of pipe inside the lower radiator tank. Its significantly cooler in the radiator then the lines from the waterpump which feed the stock oil cooler, but it would be hotter than running a stand alone oil cooler.

If you arent in a hot environment(it gets pretty hot here in Texas) than you might not want to even bother.

You dont need an upgraded oil cooler, it will do more harm than good. Your going to decrease the flow of oil. The pressure restriction will probably be offest by the higher viscosity at lower temperatures. But the oil pump is the highest horsepower consuming accessory on the motor. 10W-30 oil actually has a viscosity of several hundred at room temperature, its supposed to reach an operating temperature of 200-300 degrees F in non racing applications, up to 400-500 in a race engine. The thinner it gets the more HP you will have. Since your engine isnt producing enormous amounts of power you will not see any benefits of increased cooling.
If the oil doesnt get hot enough it wont burn off the fuel and water gases slipping past the rings. Your oil will turn to sludge and you will damage the engine.

The stock oil cooler is what the oil filter screws onto. It is connected to the water pump and the two coolant lines running under the exhaust.

Does the 7AFE have a stock oil cooler? The 5SFE does. It's at the base of the oil filter and utilizes coolant(the coolant is ~50-100 degrees cooler than oil).

The 2000 rpm is to seat the bearings and valvetrain

You can buy break in oil.

Run the motor at 2000rpm for twenty minutes upon initial start up, then change the oil. Some people have suggestions for breaking in the rings, usually its either baby it for 500-1000 miles or run it real hard a few times to seat the rings.
Put moly lube(or "assembly lube") on on the moving parts when you put the motor back together, and some light oil on the cylinder walls. Just enough to film the bores with of motor oil or bar/chain oil if you have it.

Nope they are going to be different.

Why dont you just run a closed plenum feeding the ITBs.

The point of the ITB is to increase throttle response. When you open the throttle there is a delay while air fills the intake manifold before reaching the intake ports. Since the volume of air between the throttle body and intake port is reduced on an ITB setup, this delay time is shorter. Just build a sealed box to connect all the ITBs fed by an AFM.

Alternatively, you CAN run a map sensor. Either you can connect it to one cylinder, or you can connect a vacuum line or pipe from all four cylinders together. It would also have the benefit of increasing balance across all four cylinders.

On my motorcycle they actually have a hole drilled through the head which interconnects all four intake ports. It increases horsepower 15% over models not equipped with it.

Take the front tires and have them balanced, if the wheel is bent they will tell you.

Fourtunately thats the easier seal to replace, the axle doesnt have a clip inside the tranmission.

The dust cap isnt always on replacement axles, its the seal that failed.

Sounds like a bad cooling fan. Figure out why the one is only working intermittently.

Is it the same size as the 3sgte or 5s?

If only one fan comes on, try this again with the a/c on and the wire unplugged.
If both fans dont run you are having a cooling fan issue.

Yes the plastic on the tank deteriorates with time but if the cap is defective it can cause pressure to build until the radiator explodes.

The water pump cannot fail in this manner, it is an impeller driven by the timing belt.

Could be the headgasket. Unplug the sensor located on the bottom tank of the radiator, this should cause the radiator fans to run nonstop. If both fans run, try driving it around like this and see if it continues boiling over. If it continues overflowing I would suggest checking the coolant system for exhaust gasses.



When you fill the coolant system, make sure the heater is turned on and blowing.

I dont think a jdm cylinder head will pass inspection. You need an egr valve, and possibly some other emmisions equipment which may not be present on a non US or non California spec head.

As tight as you can get it with a 3-6 ft breaker bar

Had to jump up and down on a 9ft section of drill pipe the first time I took my cv axle out