6G Celicas Forums

Good choice. I also still have my celica.
Made it a bit shorter back in 2010 hitting a lamppost during winter and it sure as **** isn't in its best condition but I just can't part with it.

Today I got another step closer to having it back on the road again after seven years.

I killed my car also during winter last year.
But I dont want to loose my car after the amount of money and time spent on it, so I am rebuilding it.
Mostly new parts, but I still regret the fact that it isn't stock anymore.

You need to use a resistor in series with the led. Otherwise the current running trough the led will be too high.
I think it should be in the the range from 330 - 560 ohms.

The units I've bought are equipped for this. So I need to make a new wireharness in order to get it working.
If someone has a better readable version, I would be very thankfull.

What I meant is called beam level control.
I tried using BGB online on celicatech couple of days ago but it's next to dead.
Gave it another go this evening and succes: http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgb.../EWD/EWD-10.jpg
Thanks to their "opendir" protocol

Can somebody provide me with a wiring diagram for adjustable headlights? I can't seem to find it. Maybe I'm searching the wrong places.

Due to an accident, I have to replace my headlight units. The ones I got now are adjustable. (Don't know if this is the right description)
Since my car is a ST202, 3S-GE, it doesn't have this feature. Now that the lightunits have this feature, I want to make it work. Already found some wiring and connectors, but it was cut in half.

Thanks in advance

With the 7th gen shortshifter, I found that the handbrake is in the way when shifting to first and second gear. How does it feel with this knob, being it a bit taller than stock?

MAP-ECU is a piggybacksystem, like apexi S-AFC and such.
I've tried to find some info over remapping toyota ECU's but it's a pain in the ass.

The only thing I don't like is the fact that too much people have fiddled around with. Cutting connectors from wire harnesses, drilling holes in the centre piece for carkits, and so on. Going to fix it all, but people who do those thing should be shot.

Heatwrap, I suspect. It's used to keep your exhaustheader from radiating heat.

Apply some force on it with the engine turning, if the sound stops, or you start to hear it, then it might the pressurebearing.

Could be ignition, clogged fuelfilter, rotten airsensor, crappy servo. Succes with it.

After hitting a dog a year ago (the dog survived, 40MpH), I decided to sell the celica. I needed a car with more room, because I got a daughter. It had to be a toyota at least, so I bought a nearly new Avensis turbo diesel (don't know if you it in the USA). That was the biggest mistake I've made. Nothing wrong with that car, but I couldn't get used to it the way it feld on the road and so on. After nagging and wining for about a year I got "permission" from my wife to sell this car, and this weekend I get my GT. (I'm so happy)

Like said before could be vacuum leaking, or, as in my case brakes got stuck.

Well, what about pipes from the CAI? when you drive the car, they become hot too. Doesn't the air get heated up traveling trough it?

I have been in the deepest corners of internet, but they just don't seem to excist.
Just the binary files are enough, I can do my own soldering and programming.

Thanks for explaining yourself and the discussion: I see your points and it's true, car are the worst environment to create decent sound. You have good point saying people probably keep listening in happy ignorance or something like it. I cannot deny it; it counts for me as well.

All that you are saying is true, but then again also not entirely. (dont feel offended )
Subwoofers are really a tricky thing. Because subs play in the lowest regions of soundfrequency, what you really measure is the response of the environment it is in.
The reason that you have for example 90db@20Hz. has more to do with the fact that you find yourself in a spot where you have maximum bassreponse at that specific frequency. (anti-node)

As an experiment try this: place your sub in a room and let it play a constant tone of 40Hz. Walk around with a db-meter and mark all the spots where you have good reponse, walls for example (anti-nodes). Mark also places where you have nearly zero response (nodes). Now try the same with a 50Hz tone. You will notice that all the spots you've marked before are all mixed up. This is because all tones travel with exact the same speed. But the wavelength is different which causes that a full low frequency sinus does not "fit" in the room. Also if letting sound reflect from a surface isn't a clean solution. The reflected sound travels delayed. If you make this visible with a spectrum analyzer you should see several sinus curves, crossing eachother. This will result in amplification at some points(spike, anti-node) but also at some points they will cancel eachother (node).
Also, the reflected sound will travel to your ear with delay, causing a rumbly and distorted bass.
This proves that placing a woofer doesn't work by the priciple that if it reflects its sound, there is more sound pressure level at every frequency, thus making it very difficult finding a sub that meets your needs for a specific room without tuning it.

If the woofers are suited for it you could go ported. While there are some benefits there, like 3-4 db more pressure, be carefull not to make design flaws, you could easily blow your subs.
A rule of thumb that can be used is; EBP produkt (Efficiency Bandwith Product):EBP = Fs / Qes
If EBP > 60, and QTS = 0,5 : Free air
If EBP = below 100 and QTS equals 0: Closed enclosure.
If EBP = between 50-100 and QTS equals 0: Ported.

It shouldn't really matter what side they are facing. That part has to do with the human ear; the human ear isn't capable to detect where sounds below 80Hz (I believe) are coming from. Think of the subwoofer of the surround-set. You can virtually place it anywhere.

As for the part of subwoofers not doing there job; This all depents on the construction of the enclosure; is it designed to meet the specs of the sub? What about crossovers; maybe set to a too high frequency or a too high db-cut off ?

difficult to weld. its aluminium isn't it?

Just seal it. Now it is sucking in false air. it serves no purpose.
It's prolly ''one size fits all" CAI, so its there for cars who do need it.

Different places for warninglights isn't a problem.
I am more concerned of blowing it up 'cause wires don't match up.
What about connectors? are they the same?
Is there someone you know of, that did this conversion?

Wash it with some water afterwards. Better safe than sorry.

Does somebody know if the gaugecluster from a GT fits into a STI ?
By that i mean without modifying the electronics.