6G Celicas Forums

As of current Gouky has hacked the ecu, removing the immobilizer completely. Its a none issue now and should make any ecu choice simple, with addition of rev limit of 7,200 rpm and soon to come speed limiter lift.

Mine free reving. It sings pretty well when driven, low growl with light to mid throttle and only singing at full throttle.

ae92 v6

Funny you say that, I found the v6 2gr to be even quieter than my beams 3sge, even now on 2 resonators it is at just about the right sound level.

It does have codes looking for a transmission, but it doesnt affect power. All I can say is the 2gr in the corolla chassis surprised a lot of people. It never changed the handling from the beams 3s, its only problem is you need 225 or more up front. Even then with a bit more throttle on corner exit and it will fwd power slide/understeer in the direction of trajectory.

No, I loved it but had been wanting an sw20 for awhile now. I sold mine when I got married 6 years ago thinking I was done with cars. I ran into this deal of a complete turbo chassis with a crapped out engine. While I wish I could have both cars, knowing the cost of the swap I didnt have the finiaces to have 2 2gr powered cars. So I made the decision to part out the corolla and swap everything I could over. This way i would get at least what I spent on the sw chassis, so essentially its like swapping cars with the exception of me doing all the labor.

Got an sw20 so transplanting the v6 over to that.

Mr2 spyder electric power steering pump, was used in my 2gr swap. It has cooler, harness and everything. SOLD!

e153 custom cable bracket for the use of S series cables. $20

As with anything, if your going to do it make sure you commit and see it through.

Here is a 4x4 I used to show the amount of clearence. I think on mine I mounted it lower than normal since I made all custom mounts, not having much to start off with.

How I did my pipes. The pipe is the lowest point of the car, luckily it also moves on the same plane as the wheels. I have not scratched it yet.

Nice hopefully you get it running soon.

I just did a test and tune with mine yesterday. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qALQeveWdkc...eature=youtu.be

I've seen a couple drilled rotors crack also. If for performance solid blanks work the best imo, more mass and surface area is always a good thing.

Weird I've only ever had to fill it and while the car is running turn the steering wheel from lock to lock til I don't feel anymore hiccuping.

Posted this elsewhere but thought I'd post it here. Testing out the gopro my wife bought me. I will probably need to reopen up the transmission this winter and put in some new 2nd and 3rd gear syncros. Gonna upgrade the front to 245/45/16 too, maybe this will help with corner exit grip.

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I would still keep it in case you do have some time in the future. Its also nice to have something that only needs slight modification to have work.

Recently 15 min into a heat at a driving event did this to my passenger side axle made by CRW. It was probably too short.

I don't have a 6gc, but am a Toyota owner. I don't see many people in MN with 6gc. BTW i'm wanting to make a comparison video of the 2gr acceleration if anyone in MN has a 3sgte.

I thought on the Celica's the passenger side axle was short if your using the st185 axle. As far as the bolts goes, couldn't you just go to the hardware store?

I'm using the 00' mr2 spyder powersteering pump in my corolla with the 2gr conversion. The pump works great, its an all in one pump (it has its own control unit). The steering feel is nice because the assist is just enough so you know you have powersteering but not butter soft like most belt driven pumps. It is relatively easy to wire too, and it will work without a VSS signal, although it does help. Pump cost me $200. If it sits idle to long the pump will shut off, but with a turn of the steering wheel the pump sense fluid again and turns right back on. The mk3 mr2 version also uses a lot less juice than the mk2 mr2 pumps.

Thanks I'll give the cables a try when I have the money for it. Roughly $50 for bracket and $200 per cable is kinda steep at the moment. I don't know if I wanna mix Ams oil syncromesh anymore, I did it to my c52 in the past as a 50% mix and I notice it kinda foamed up the fluid when I removed the transmission. Whether or not it was bad I don't know.

I just thought maybe some people also had experience with the redline LWSP on here, since on the mr2 site a certain amount of people seem to say it worked wonders for them. Some of them even say they had it for extended periods of as long as 15 yrs with no ill effect except for better shifting.

Been tracking since 2005, I would hope I'm able to do it by now lol. Besides its one of those deals where you brake for a corner, heel toe rev-match downshift to a lower gear for corner exit, its not going... not going... F it I need it in a lower gear now, force it. Thats what I mean by the grinding happening. In the past my s54 did this no problem. When I track my car I don't baby it, I build it with the intention i'm going to beat on it. This is why I choose an e153, otherwise I would have just saved the money from buying it and installing a qauife in it. would have been easier just keeping my s54 which already had one in it.

I'm using the s54 cables, but I made a completely new bracket for it that puts the cable in the middle of its travel. I think the pedal might be about 1" off the floor, but I had to max out my adjustment to make it like that. When I had the pedal adjustment set like it was for the s54 it wouldn't even go into gear. I got the extended rod, but after reading a bit on it i'm not sure i'm going to use it anymore. Since all it does is preload the clutch.

Eventually when I have money saved again I may get the Camry/Solara shift cables and bracket, I had to budget on some stuff since the swap was adding up so quickly.

The two things i'm going to try for sure is LWSP fluid and the spacing of the pivoting fork for the release bearing.

Well I should ask, can you guys that have the e153 shift it hard and beat on it like in racing/track situations?

So I used a Solara e153 in my 2gr swap. All the syncro's are in decent shape, I know this cause when we installed the qauife we inspected them. I'm using a southbend endurance 2 clutch, so far it holds very well. Fluid is redline mt-90, I may switch to redline LWSP. So far the up shifting is ok, but heel toe downshifts are very very notchy, for example at a current event I did I was downshifting for a corner, it just didn't want to go in, well I needed the gear so crunch grind into gear it went as a forced it. I didn't like that, its not enjoyable to know I have to destroy they syncros every time I downshift. I want to fix this problem.

Does anyone with the e153 have their transmission downshift like this? And I'm talking about when you really abuse the setup. Cause on the street I can ease into it and its ok.

I may also try this http://racingstrong.com/?p=236 But don't feel like taking the transmission off just to do this washer trick.


The 2gr has a very good powerband, it feels like it has even more torque in 3rd gear than my 3sge redtop in 2nd.

Kinda cause one provides just filtered air while the other provides vacuum.