6G Celicas Forums

Jesus, professional for 43 years and has a 100 dollar smoke machine for vacuum leaks??

Heck you can find his vacuum leaks with a can of brake spray in less than 30 seconds without removing any hoses or smoking yourself out...

Thats really nicely done, looks to be immaculate, wheel design looks to be very compatible with the car and has a great stance too, making me wanna go out and buy one for a project myself now.

Nice job......wanna do mine?

Get yourself some carbide bits, i tend to use the oval one shown the article the most, along with a some 80 grit tapes to use with a split fork deburrer ( piece of rod about 4 inches long with a slot hacksawed in the end) and maybe some cartridge rolls or a kit of them from standard abrasives and some ata bands.

Forget about port matching on the exhaust side, what you want ti see is an overlap all the way around the port, like a step so the gases flow out over it but cant easily come back in over it under reversion.
If the ports are matched itll make it easier for the ports to backflow and charge quality etc can be impacted on.

Unless theres a large instrusion/mismatch into the airstream on the intake ports, they probably wont need to be touched either.
Much more important is shape, size of them will in all likelihood be close to whats needed already, so just smoothing the casting marks off and removing sharp edges on the short side radius will do a good job of getting you a power improvement for not a lot of effort.

You can still apply the basics in the article to the 5sfe head.

Just to add, dont underestimate the advantages you can get by utizing a good valve seat combination.
Too many people just go get a "3 angle job" done without knowing if the angles used are working or not so speak to someone whos tested them on your engine, if theyve not done it then really youre shooting in the dark.

Since i built my own flowtester ive been able to gauge the impact of various valve seat modifications for the heads im currently working on (audi) and avoid the ones that dont work too well.
Heres a couple of curves i generated whilst testing a head for an engine build im doing.

First up, the modified seat combination vs the stock setup in blue.



As you can see, quite an improvement and the port hasnt even been touched, not cleaned nothing at that point.

Same port, different combination, flow is murdered at low lift and the port whistles like heck which you can see until it clears at around 4.0mm lift.
Thats the kind of thing you want to avoid at all costs.



Video of that port squealing as the valve is lifted, hard to appreciate how loud it actually is on the video but its starting to overload the mic on the camera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyUio7RaL0Y

Dosnt matter none, the 1mz intake ports are pretty much identical to the 3vz heads.
Exhaust ports are a better design tho being of a very similar design to the 1uz v8 motor.

Apply the same basic techniques to it and itll work out pretty good.

ha! I think cali might be a bit far from me!

Feel free to ask any questions tho and if i can help out ill do my best.

As the title suggests, a porting guide for the V6'ers.
Gives you a good starting point and what to expect doing the bulk of the work yourself.

Hope its useful to someone.

http://horsepowercalculators.net/tuner_rep...nd-higher-power

Hi Stephen thanks for that offer but i think shipping from texas to the uk will be a killer! Cost me 42 bucks for an oil seal to be shipped.

Ill keep my eyes open for one locally, probably can pick one up el cheapo and i dont mind seeing what its got vs what it can give.
any info gleaned ill pass on as and when i get it , gives me a side project and keeps me on my toes.
Thanks again, much appreciated.

Old startup vid of mine, sounds like a spitfire...

Still have the photos etc, if you need any, let me know, or maybe can upload them somewhere.

http://youtu.be/VHRIhiZbxss

youve seen that new chinese satellite, right?

Id put money on the cylinder head and valve seat combination being less than optimal, most likely power to be had there.

If i ever get my mitts on a 5sfe head ill do a series of flowtests and put the details up here for others to follow.
Doing an audi head at the minute so im up to my ears in that one.

Well this lot made me laugh a bit.

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=5d0_1326700801


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_iyf-S8m4g


They never learn....

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=2e9_1327965272

Known as a drop gear.

Ive seen something similar before, i think it might have been on the peugeot 205 T16 or similar whereby the drives taken from the rear and dropped down before being shunted forward.
The only real issue with doing it is maybe clearance to the ground would be a bit on the tight side, certainly do-able tho.

I did a fair bit of delving into on this same concept a number of years ago and came up with many wacky ideas, but they do all seem to depend on the gearbox issue.

Stuff like: The gt4 box not running backwards as it stands.
It has an oil pump internally that wont like working in reverse plus the direction of back thrust from its helically cut gears may create issues with wear and gearshifting problems.
That in itself could possibly be overcome with some kind of controlling washers inside.
I had the idea of running the engine backwards to facilitate the use of the gt4 box in that rear mounted mr2 configuration, however, again, youre into issues like swapping all the pistons around on their rods as the thrust direction changes (pistons generally have an offset to the wrist pin which wont work so good the other way), oil pump wont work so need an electric setup, camshafts need a regrind to alter opening and closing ramps (unless symmetrically ground), cambelt tensioning can be taken care of with a tensioner on the other side of the belt ( unloaded side),..... lots of small stuff to work out but i always look at it like this: most anything can be accomplished with human ingenuity, oh and deep pockets!

Get yourself a chilton manual from halfords ( thats where i got mine from) it shows all the fuse and relay positions.

You can also use dry ice blasting on those kinds of components too, leaves no resdues or mess at all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrHchu1tNyc...feature=related

Sounds like clutch drag.

I had the same issue on the gt4 with a cracked friction plate, kept dragging and wouldnt shift right.
Busted from too many hard launches i think.

I can add another test to that for you!

With the vehicle raised off its wheels, disconnect each of the sensors in turn and attach a digital voltmeter to the sensor terminals.
Set the meter to read Volts AC (alternating current) then spin the wheel by hand.
You should generate a voltage if the sensor and reluctor ring on the driveshaft is good, can go as high as a couple of hundred volts at the kinds of speeds the car can get to, but in this instance, all we want to see is a nice AC signal telling us that the sensor is seeing the teeth of the abs reluctor ring as it passes thru the magnetic field of the sensor.

Hope thats some help!

Nowt weird about that! Just watch out for the welsh plods hiding behind...well...everything.

Looks a little like the run down into Dolgellau.

My current steed, presently undergoing a total body refurb/rebuild and adding a 20 valve turbo motor for some scare value.

Still in my photobucket stuff.

Applies to 3vz fe engine, st185 chassis only.
Bit rough and ready but never got around to refining it, still it works ok for what it does.

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/82ed78dc.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/16e5b8b5.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/86a22322.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/aae73700.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/62d771a0.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/950f945a.jpg

Crikey, small world! Hope youre doing well, did you get the install all ironed out and running?

Hi Kurt, if youre doing the swap into a celica then its not the same item as used for the sw20 mr2.
Its actually simpler to fabricate an item to fit the celicas.

Not sure on the Gen 6 celica but on the st185 5thgens its basically a flat bar and utilise the original mounts.
Ive got a drawing someplace with the dimensions for that fitment and an expertly drawn (not) sketch in windoze paint!
Ill see if i can find them out if you want them.

95 celica st- have i supplied you in the past? usnernames not familiar to me, and thanks for your comments.

Yep they do make a nice noise for sure.