6G Celicas Forums

Thank you so much!

Like the title says. My rear defroster has not been working for a long time. I checked that my contacts are good and the wiring running to the back is good. My fuse is ok and is getting power when the switch is on, so that seems to leave the relay as the culprit. However, I cannot for the life of me locate the damn thing. I’ve checked diagrams and they seem to indicate that it is somewhere under the left dash side with the fuses, etc. I hear it click when I turn on the heat, but still cannot locate it. Where is it!?!

Any help appreciated, thank you!

Thank you!!! Maybe time to upgrade the forum?

Having a price range would help me and others sign up possibly

Actually I uninstalled my turbo a while ago. I don't usually do brake stuff. I'll give that a shot, thanks.

Hi there, looking for some guidance.

I recently broke a lug stud on my front passenger side. I got a replacement and took off the wheel, caliper, and caliper bracket in order to remove the disc brake and install the new stud. That part went fine, but when I went to put the caliper back on, it seemed really tight. The wheel does not seem to move freely, and upon driving, my braking power seems reduced.

- Did I do something wrong? Is it possible something got misaligned, or I needed to do X before putting it back on? I did not apply brake cleaner or lube; could that fix it? Or does my caliper just need to be replaced?
- I did not disconnect the break line; it is possible I have too much pressure in the line and I need to bleed the brakes a bit?

- If I do replace the caliper, should I also just go ahead and replace the pads and discs? Is this a simple bolt on or do you need special measuring tools? I don't think they have ever been replaced but seemed to be working ok.

Thanks for the help!

Hi there, my top oxygen sensor plug that goes into the wiring harness got too close to my exhaust manifold and melted! Looking to buy just the plug on the harness so I don't have to splice it in every time if it needs to be replaced. PM please, thanks!

I don't think a GT one will fit, thanks though.


That would be great, thanks!

Looking for stock air intake, including hose and airbox/filter, do not need lower resonator stuff.

Offering $75 shipped if in good condition.

Hey this is great, but I'm confused about if I should use a cork gasket or not. I just purchased a new oil pan and cork gasket, but most instructions I find show only using gasket maker. Would it be overkill to use both? Or could I just use the court one?Also, does it need to be Toyota brand gasket maker or can it just be any high temp generic gasket maker?

You have rear disc brakes? Still have e brake cable? If so, how much? Looking to do a conversion, I can pick up locally, too.

Does anyone know if a gauge exists which displays all pertinent turboharged engine information all in one small display? For example, a small digital screen which displays boost, oil pressure, o2 wideband, and egt, rather than having 4 separate gauges?

Sorry if this is a dumb question but i googled this and can't find good info. Thanks!

Hey guys, I just replaced my front exhaust pipe (between the manifold and the cat) and I'm wondering how much I should tighten the bolts. I've read online between 17 foot-pounds to 23 foot-pounds, and I've also seen people just say to tighten the flanges down all the way so that they're touching. How much should I tighten them to avoid a leak? Is it better to leave them a little bit on the looser side, Or should I just crank those nuts down super tight? Thanks!

Tried to PM but inbox is full.

Do you have the exhaust pipe between the exhaust manifold and the cat? How much do you want for it if you have it?

Bump; FYI I'm pretty much looking for a stock one, will pay well!

Like the title says, I need an exhaust pipe site someone butchered by flange and now it leaks all the time. I'm pretty sure that it is the same part for 94 and 95 ST, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Shoot me a PM and let me know how much.

Thanks!

It appears that this is just what has happened. Does anyone have a like to the original how to????

Thanks!

I have been having the same problem with my tien-s springs. I don't know why some people have alignment problems and others do not, but I fall into the former category. Every alignment place I've taken my car to has told me that I need new camber bolts.

OP, can you link the site that you got those ones from? They look like they work perfectly!

Thanks.

Edit: Is this it? http://performance.importrp.com/spc_perfor...xr/g-62332.aspx

How many did you have to buy?

Edit: Also, hey everyone, what's up???

Thanks man you rock

Hey dudes,

I got an CEL, and after resetting the ECU it still came right back. The guys at the mechanic shop wanted 50 bucks just to read the code! I said screw that, went on ebay and got a usb code reader for 15 buck shipped. Hahaha.

Anyway, I plugged it in (I switched the "baud rate" to 38400, otherwise it didn't work) and it spit out the code "P0325, Knock Sensor 1 Circuit." I'm thinking that maybe recently when I was changing the oil I spilled some on the sensor and shorted it... Does this sound right?

Anyway, I was wondering if someone can tell me where exactly the knock sensor is on the 7afe, and if it is difficult to replace?

Thanks a bunch!

I have both of the old axles from my axle swap (I replaced them with new ones and there was no core charge). I'm not sure if anyone want them but I have my old ones, the CV joint on both is ripped and they would click when I turned.

Make me an offer if you are interested.

Or, if no one here is interested in axle cores, does anyone know a place that I can sell them? Thanks.

What I dont understand is how a longer bolt will allow for a greater adjustment. I have too much negative camber (-1.6) and it is causing wearing on the inner tires. What camber kit should I be looking for?

Never mind, I did some searching and found this. Does this look good? Will I need any other parts? Thanks again for the help!



BTW, one should be for the driver's side, the other for the passenger's side.

Great, thanks! Have any recommendations where to get them in the US? What exactly do I need/ should I be searching for? "Celica ST CV joint assembly," or something like that?

Hey guys,

I have been experiencing a cracking sound when I turn my wheel for about 6 months now. I am pretty sure that it is broken CV joint covers. Today I brought the cars in for an estimate and they quoted me 150 for each side, plus 2 hours labor, which comes out to about $600 for the whole job. I have a few questions that I was hoping someone could answer who has experience with this sort of thing:

-Is $600 a fair price?
-Should the whole axle assembly be replaced? I was thinking that they'd just do the boots but the mechanic said that it was only an extra $50 to do the whole thing (on the estimate they called it REMIN CV COMPL ASSY), and that no one just does the boots.
-How difficult of a job would this to be to do myself? How long would it take? If I do do it myself, where can I get the parts for cheep?

Thanks for the help guys!