6G Celicas Forums

Hmm, yes that was a good picture, I now understand why noone sell spare rings, because there really are no rings, it is a wheel.

But I think i have to disassemble everything so see what the problem really is.

Hmm ok, but if the sensor fails it usally get a errorcode, or stop working, now it "over active", that usally means the ring is bad.. but I only seen this on other cars, never on a toyota..


I guess I have to try to disassemble and see how it looks like.. ..It would be nice to look up how it is constructed on toyodiy but they dont have the pics anymore

My ST202 sadly been standing still a few years now, but now I plan to fix it.. one of the problems was that the ABS on right rear wheel didnt work too well, it kind of always pulsed when you braked, at least right before the stop.

This is usally the ABS ring that is the problem, but is it possible to change it without replacing the hub ? where can i buy one then ?

I searched and searched, but only find the rings for the front wheels..

Ooold thread, but I just wanted to add that I successfully used an ABS sensor from a camry, original partnumber 89543-33030, I bought a "noname" part, on ebay for AU$20.

Used this on my front left wheel on my ST202 (eurospec, with superstrut), the sensor had the screw hole on a difefrent place but it could be fitted, also the connector was the correct one, but I had to route the cable the closest way and use wirestraps to keep it in place.

Have been driving about 5000km now and it still works fine.


..Had to drill out the old sensor btw, just put a sheet of steel between the ABS wheel and the sensor so I didnt accidentically drilled into the ABS ring.

To get the car home I removed some stuff (a relay box for example) and bypassed the cooler with a 50cm 10mm marine fuel hose, the reason I choosed the marine version that costed the double was that it have double reinforcements instead of just one, and it is specced for higher pressure, both are ok for up to 120 degrees C.

After some troubles I got it in place, filled up with synthetic ATF and started, sounded pretty bad, so I had to top up with more oil, and then turn wheel to the ends and then it sounded and felt nice.

I first took a testdrive in our garage at work, 5 rounds ..and then went home in my ST205.. now yesterday my gf drove me to work so I could drive the ST202 home again, and it was fine, no problems, the oil was 38 degrees when I got home after 50km driving.

Now when it is home I will try to remove the old cooler and see how I could make a new one.. maybe it could be done just putting a oilcooler there instead ? ..it probably would be a upgrade

My ST202 '94 started to leak oil a few days ago, unfortunatly I found out at work, when i was going home.. so now the car is stuck at my work..

Anyway, the problem is that the power steering coolling pipe that is in front of the radiator have rusted over the years and finally got a hole in it so it leaks..

Called my local toyota dealer and asked how much it costs, I didnt think it would be THAT expensive, its just a pretty short bent steel pipe, but how wrong I where.. 6800SEK, that is a bit over $1000 ! crazy!

Since that is half the value of the car, I would not buy it ofcourse..

Does anyone have a source where I can but a cheaper replacement ? or any ideas how to fix it myself.

I was thinking of replacing it with a homebent copper (water) pipe ? ..either solder it to the old rusty pipe, or replace the whole pipe..

I also could try to fit some kind of connectors and replace it with a small oil coooler ?

But since the "cooler" is so crappy done (just bent pipe) I suspect that a real cooler would be veyr much overkill.. probably its not needed at all in swedish climate ? or.. ..but still, would feel better to replace it with a pipe instead of a short loop..

Any ideas ?

that would be great! I'm not in a hurry, the car is in a garage with a biig pile of snow in front of the door anyway

Nice! that is 7wire mirrors, right ? can you post a pic of all the cables functions on the mirror connector ?

Mine are the 7-wire type too.

If there are no info about them available I will try to find out what the cables do and publish some schematics here.

I think I readed somwhere that the cabling of the non retractable mirrors also changed between 1995 and 1996 ?

This thread is SO messy..

Now I finally sourced a couple of retractable mirrors in the correct colour for my ST205 (black of course), but I cannot find one single usable picture of
how I should wire it ? there are a good pic of it for gen5 but not gen6 ? ..the one that i found does not seem to be correct for my mirrors.

Does someone have a nice schematic with the colors and pin positions for the original Eurospec mirror (electrically adjustable and heated) AND the retractable JDM mirror ?

Are the connector of those two the same ? if not, does anyone know what this connector is called, or maybe a partnumber of it.

I plan to use neither the relay or the original switch, just let it automatically retract when i turn of ignition, and do some own solution with a relay or some logic to fix the switch of polarity.


..My ST205 is a eurospec (LHD) from 1996, the mirrors are also from a JDM ST205 but I have no clue from what year.

You are not supposed to change fuel filter on those cars, it is made so that it should work all the car's lifetime.

Toyota probably will tell you this if you try to buy a new one from them.

If you got a lot of dirt in the fuel tank I might consider it, but if not, I would just keep it as it is.

If it's just transportation, automatic can be ok, but if you actually DRIVE the car, it sucks

Two of the cars I have owned (SAAB 900 turbo and Mercedes benz 200) have had automatic transmission, both times I sold them and said "NEVER again!"

afaik mineral oil also use those cleaning addons nowadays so I dont know if it really is dangerous to shift from mineral to synthetic anymore.

But if you can find out what oil the previous owner used it could be nice, if that was synthetic you should continue with that ofcourse.


I use synthetic in both my Celicas, the ST205 get expensive oil from castrol, the ST202 get not so expensive oil from "biltema" (swedish company that sell cheap parts for cars)

The only reason for that is that I care much more for the ST205, and it costed ten times more than the ST202, the ST202 also get much more miles every year, so filling it with
expensive oil would be, well, expensive

Crappy mobile phone pic taken outisde my house in the evening yesterday.

Finnally got the ST205 out of the garage.

Today the silver GT going to the yearly inspecation., and tomorrow the GT4..




Was so nice driving the ST205 again after driving the ST202 for months..

The T20 is the crown jewwel of all Celicas i totally love this generation (That's why I have two of them and been a T20 owner the last 10 years )



Can you turn the key ? if not it's probably just the lock that is full of dirt, have had that problem on both my current Celicas..



Busted as in "crushed" or just don't work ?

If it just dont work it often can be fixed by oiling and force move it, you spray some thin penetrating oil in it (from the top) and then turn it on while you pulling it, and then spray more and
turn it off and piush it in, and then again, as soon as you see dirt, remove it with a cloth and spray more..

I done this to many broken electric antennas, it is a stupid construction, at least here in Sweden where we have snow and rain pretty much..

If this fails or the antennatube is crushed, toyota have the antennantube and the pushrod as a sparepart so you can change it and don't have to buy a whole new antenna.


The T20 cab is beautiful, unfortunatly it was never sold in Sweden, some people have been importing them, but they are very rare to see here.

I have the same problem with my ST202, is it the same procedure on the 3S-GE ?

Have to check how much toyota want for those gaskets..

But that is wrong, they are 4pot fixed in the front on ST205, not sure about rear.

For LHD or RHD ?

I have the toyota original white ones on my ST205..

http://imgur.com/jGkjQ

It had the amber ones when it was new, but those look more modern IMHO.

..I dont like the clear ones, but I would love to have a smoked version.

Reminds me of my old ST165 with original BBS RS



..Just 15" however..

I would also consider to buy a ST205 instead, if it's possible where you live.. then you get much more power, brakes, handling etc, and its ready to drive and legal

(Don't know the legal aspects of engine swaps where you live)

Since some earlier owner removed all emblems from my ST202 I would like to buy used emblems.

Most important are the one saying "CELICA", would be nice with the small "TOYOTA" text too, and if possible the "GT" Emblem (to the right) too.
I the center emblem with the toyota-ring logo is included too its nice but thats not important.

Those cost a bit over 800SEK (about 80Euros) from toyota, thats too expensive for me. (Then I drive it without emblems, or put some old SAAB emblems on it )

You can see what you have by examining the high and low pressure ports, they are completly different if you have a R12 (freon) system compared to a modern R134a system.

I suggest that you google for specs/pics, but the low pressure port on R134a systems have a 13mm connection with a quick coupler.

Both my GT '94 and GT-Four '96 have R134a systems, so I guess that yours is too.

I don't think those are made anymore ?

Is there any shop that ship internationaly that have them in stock ?

..If I cant find anything i probably will make one myself, but thats a big amount of work if it's going to be perfect

Is there any readily made A-pillar pod for the LHD 6gen celica still made ? or at least sold ?

Preferably for three gauges.

Its easy to find them for RHD, but thats not very interesting for us with the steering wheel on the correct side