6G Celicas Forums

Anybody got an actual picture of the intake cam gear at tdc on the 7afe? im pretty sure my marks are correct but would like to make sure my cam timing is right.

Ignition has been adjusted both ways with light still a wall, tons of intake noise under wot so i'd say im off a tooth or so on the cam's.

Car hits a brick wall at 4k sounds as if the intake is opening way to much, so good bet my cam timings off aye?

Got it going and was the alternator power wire, thanks fellas.

Kevin im in boone nc.

Yeah well going to try everything i know to do love driving the little car its fun even with 80whp. Thanks for ya'lls suggestions, if i can't track it down i'll be hollering back.

Well at the moment the 100amp is not hooked up if i try and jump it i get sparks, but other large amp fuse is good so it starts without a problem each and everytime. Now i did notice the wire from battery and nut on the bottom of starter will move like the stud inside is lose as i can only tighten it so much before it starts turning on itself.

They are and hope thats not the case. But hey atleast it runs baha who needs that girly stuff and working lights an such? not real men.

Not a thing man, unless a mouse or something chewed on some damn wiring.

Yeah hopefully i can trace it down here tomorrow. What don't work is everything inside PW,PL,CD,Gauges, Turn signals etc and also tailights.

LSX end thread jk.

But my legend uses the type2 c32 v6 and even though it's a boat it runs out real well, a celica with the 1mz would be very nice i'd love that.

Will do kurt.

Box yeah first time i hooked a battery up to it smoke was rolling off the positive.

Haha yeah figured that much bud.

Oh she's alive again ready for the break in period and just a bit before winter, because my type2 legend would soooooooooo go great in snow (not). Anyway other than an electrical issue with everything on the inside not working (100 amp fuse blew and keeps blowing and i hate tracking down wiring ****, any ideas? done checked all chassis and block grounds) it runs and starts right up.

Sounds like a plan get to her after work, thanks guys.

So tore my 7afe down a few months ago and for the life of me can not remember where the long head bolts go vs the shorter ones. I've got brand new bolts ready to go but do not remember how they were placed, thanks for the help in advance folks!

Been awhile just now getting around to putting it back together. That being said I'm out here right now and kinda stuck as to where the longer head bolts go and vise versa where the shorter head bolts go for the life of me I can't remember and don't have it in my manual. Anyway getting close, hope someone can give me a quick reply thanks kindly!

Tore it down today just waiting on parts to get here.

I've read that the 4afe cams do, but no real confirmation.

Got work at the moment (and a check from where i got the engine) so since the celica is my dd i am thinking i will rebuild the 7a. Port the head and intake an hopefully buy a set of mild cams in the feature.

The 4afe cams will work correct?

Just did a leak down all cylinder's showed 10-20%. Once or twice i got the cylinder next to #1 to whistle, signs of cracked head/block or seeping head gasket.

So pretty much stuck oil rings or massive stem seal issues. Wondering if plopp'n my other head on is worth a go besides re ringing at the moment.

Box (or anyone) where can a 4age topend be acquired for a decent price?

I've looked into it and came to the conclusion that it would be just easier to get a whole 4age. Don't know what the wiring consist of (which i hate), but read it bolts up to the ST trans using stock mounting points. If job works out i'll just go that way and say bye to the 7a.

Well good news they warranted the engine and gave me two options ....... either A pull it and get a full refund (Because they didn't have any other 7As) or B take a bit of money instead.

So i went with B, is their any higher CR OEM pistons that will work with the stock rods?

Waiting on my leak down tester to come in bud, hoping for the best expecting the worse ha.

Just some info I've came up on for 4afe and 7afe.

In. MM.

Rings
No. 1
End Gap
Standard .010-.018 (.25-.45)
Wear Limit .042 (1.07)
Side Clearance .0018-.0035 (.045-.090)

No. 2
End Gap
Standard .014-.020 (.35-.50)
Wear Limit .0472 (1.20)
Side Clearance .0012-.0028 (.030-.071)

No. 3 (Oil)
End Gap
Standard .006-.018 (.15-.45)
Wear Limit .041 (1.05)

Piston to wall clearance .004 (.101)

On 1.8L, measure rod bolt .787" (20 mm) from head of
bolt. Minimum diameter is .276" (7 mm). On all engines
replace rod bolt and nut if less than minimum diameter.
3) Note mark at center of connecting rod, which must be
aligned with front mark on top of piston. Install
connecting rod in original direction. Install piston with front mark
on piston top toward timing belt end of engine.

Main bearing clearance should be .0006-.0013" (.015-.033 mm)

And ofcourse on rod bearings you can either decode the block or measure with plastgauge or precise tools to get the desired clearances you need/want. Myself I've always been happy with .015-.019 on my Hondas which I will most likely shoot for if bearings do need replacing.
BC = IDBT – ODC – (2 x BT)
BC = bearing clearance
IDBT = inside diameter of bearing tunnel (housing bore)
ODC = outside diameter of crank journal
BT = bearing thickness
Formula applies to mains aswell.
"1" ...................................... .0585-.0587 (1.486-1.490)
"2" ...................................... .0587-.0588 (1.490-1.494)
"3" ...................................... .0588-.0590 (1.494-1.498)

Figured since I found some info I was looking for I would post it here so I can refer back to it.

Ah i see, appreciate it.