6G Celicas Forums

Got a UK '96 ST202 3S-GE.

Just wondering what the correct thickness for OEM rear brake pads are?

I've bought a set of pads (Apec PAD777) which according to the site and everywhere I check are the match for my Celica, except they are 15.5mm thick. When I install them, I cant get the caliper back down as it catches. (Yes, I've pushed the piston all the way back in, so it's not that). Seems like it's because of thickness of the pads.

As far as I can tell, there are two models for pads:

04466-32050 << '95>'96 15.5mm thick (which is my car... go figure)
04466-20020 << '97>'99 15.0mm thick

So, whats the right thickness. Do any of you have 15.5mm pads? Did you have to modify them in any way? Have I got the right OEM numbers?

Cheers.
Lee.

Nailed it. It was an air lock somewhere by the heater core.

Parked car on incline, turned heat on full and removed radiator cap.
Gave the pipes a bit of a squeeze and then topped the radiator up to the brim with Toyota coolant.
Gave pipes a few more small squeezes which shifted a few bubbles.
Got in car and waited for thermostat to open.
At first the engine temp was rising again for about 6 seconds and then I heard it.. loads of air shifted through the heater core (finally).
Engine temp dropped immediately and I had heat back in the car at the same time.
I then switched the engine off and repeated the process to account for the air displaced by the burp.

Thanks dudes!

Just had a head gasket sniff test. Head gasket is fine (phew!).

One thing I noticed though, is that I only get heat back to the cabin when the radiator is filled up directly through the cap.

That doesn't happen when I top up the coolant via the reservoir.

Blockage? Air lock?

Okay, the top pipe is hot and under pressure, so that rules out the pump, and possibly the cap.

The main symptom is no hot air coming into the cabin at all. Sometimes a little bit will come in, and then when I drive up a hill, I just get cold air coming in.

If I remove the thermostat and it still works in boiling water, that then points to the head gasket right?

When I fire up the engine I've noticed that it over-revs until I can hear the bubbles move through.

Could that be a pump issue?

Also I've noticed that if I drive with the heat all the way up, it will be cold for the first 4 mins of the journey and then suddenly (like in 3 seconds) start coming through hot.

Howdy. Got a UK '96 ST202 3S-GE.

Firstly, when I start the engine I can hear air bubbles circulating around the cooling system (happens about 3 seconds from ignition).

I've checked that the coolant is fully topped up.

On two occasions I haven't heard any bubbles.. when that happens, no hot air comes in and the engine temp rises above normal. When this has happened I've felt the pipes and found that the top pipe and top of the radiator is hot and the bottom pipe and bottom of radiator is cold.

First time it happened I decided to get the thermostat replaced.

Second time, I added coolant and gave the pipes a squeeze, which must've dislodged some air, because it started working again.

Last night, I heard a few bubbles as usual and had heat as usual, but about 5 mins into the journey I gave it some welly up a hill, lost hot air and the engine started to overheat again.

After a 5 min rest, I started the engine and heard LOADS of air bubbles circulate.

Any ideas folks?

Cheers.

Job done!

For anyone interested, the 2 holes in the steering wheel either side of the main nut take 2 x M8 bolts.

There was definitely no way that thing was coming out with brute force or any combination of wiggling.

The torx screws either side were bitch to remove because of the clips that stop them from coming out. Had to use a flat head screwdriver to prize them back to unscrew them enough.

Yeah I did, but it seems to be on there tight as hell.

If this doesn't work, does anyone know the specification of the bolts that need to screw into the steering wheel to remove it?

The steering wheel is too tight to remove by hand.

I've tried a 'universal' steering wheel puller - which didn't fit

Anyone got a part number for a wheel puller, or know of any pullers that are compatible with a Celica?

Cheers.

Exactly what I was looking for. Nice one.

I'll give this a shot today.

Cheers.

Howdy.

I've just bought a UK '96 ST202 3S-GE (to replace my old UK '96 AT200 7A-FE). Loving the extra BHP.

The outer part of the steering wheel on the old one is in much better condition, so I want to swap it over to the new one.

The centre part containing the airbag on the new one is fine.. it's just the outer part of the wheel that I want to change.


1. Is it possible to remove outer part without disconnecting or triggering the airbag?

2. How do I do it?



Cheers for the help.
Lee.

I've ran a piece of wire down the drain hole and SOME water is coming through now - although not as much as the working side.

I'm not sure if the drainage tube can disconnect at the bottom end?

Anyone know the best way to get at it from inside the car to check?

You're right.

I tried putting some water through the sunroof drain holes. Driver's side is OK.

The water isn't exiting on the passenger side drain hole though.

What's the best course of action here?

Note: I'm finding water in front AND rear footwells of the clogged side. Roof lining isn't wet, just the carpet.

Are there any drain holes that could get blocked anywhere?

If so, where are they located?

Are there any in the cowl?

Hey people. I'm new here!

I've got an AT200 7AFE model.

My problem is that I've got rainwater collecting in the left-side front and rear footwells, but I can't find the source of the leak.

It definitely isn't coming in through the window seals or sunroof, but when it rains all night I get a puddle on the floor.

Anyone know of any possible sources to check, or known problems like this with Celicas?

Thanks!

Lee.