6G Celicas Forums

You're not having a lot of luck with your car I must admit :-(

Hopefully this will get fixed soon so you can enjoy your nice ride again!!!

Will look at that, but don't have much time for it.

Yesterday I've measured the voltages/resistances the ECU received and they all look good. Only one that was a bit low was the VC - E2 output with 0.28kohm. So I'm going to check the TPS again. Only thing is I have a 3 pin TPS instead of the 4 pin mentioned in almost all manuals. Besides that I only have the VTA and VC but not the IDL output

That was my first thought also, that's why I've checked the mechanical timing twice but it's spot on. I even made pictures of it for myself so I wouldn't doubt anymore. I've aligned the crankshaft timing pulley cutout with the circle on the oil pump. I've then checked the if the camshaft Mark was seen through the hole and if the marks on the pulleys were aligned. But that was 100% okay also.
Maybe I can check true tdc one through the spark plugs hole but that would be the first time I've ever heard the true tdc on a 4afe differs from the alignment

Hi,

I've owned a 1999 Celica 6th gen (with a 20V Blacktop) before but unfortunately had to sell it for financial reasons :-(. Now i own a 1999 Corolla which has the 4AFE engine but basically is the same as the 7AFE engine, so hope you guys can help me out here cause i'm almost at the end of my ideas and it's getting really frustrating:-(

We noticed a lack of performance while driving in the Ardennes and later in Normandie. It didn't hesitate but was really really sluggigh (even though we know this isn't a fast car ;-)). After the ardennes holiday but before the Normandie holiday i've changed the spark plugs, rotor and cap and put the injectors in an ultrasonic bath with special additives in it. That didn't help :-( During our holiday in Normandie we noticed the fuel consumption was much too high.
When i got home, the first thing i've checked was the engine timing. I discovered it was set at 20 BTDC instead of 10 BTDC!! Now i've got it i though, but after setting it to the correct setting the car really ran like crap. Some little backfires in the intake, a bit fuel smell and soooo sluggish that 0-60 took 15 sec instead of 10!!

Then we checked base engine timing with the marks on the camshafts and the crankshaft pulley but it was spot on. Then we did the next things in random order:
1) Hooked up a vacuum gauge and it says about 18 Inhg at idle but the gauge goes up and down fast by about 1-1,5 Inhg (check the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8w6S_IMrd4). So while the vacuum was high a vacuum leak wasn't suspected. When i read on internet it was more like a stuck valve. But that hardly ever happens on a 4AFE and especially not when having only 85000 on the tacho. Thas took us to the next point...
2) We've checked the compression numbers and they are 210 PSI (+- 2 PSI or so) on all cylinders. We also did the test before we hooked up the vacuum gauge and it was the same. So a stick valve isnt suspect to me.
3) but to be 100% sure i've checked valve clearances and they were also spot on!
4) I've changed the plug wires even though the resistance was perfect...but no changes
5) measured IAT and it was spot on with 3kOhm
6) checked O2 through connecting TE1 and E1 and measure how much the voltage changes in 10 second between VF1 en E1. That was more then 15 times, so also perfect!
7) injector resistance was 13.3 - 13.5 Ohm on all, so also okay. Even listened with a screwdriver and they all sound te same.
8) IIAL: 1) measured G= en G- resistance 226 Ohm 2) NE+ and NE1 resistance 452 Ohm 3) primaire coil resistance 1,5 ohm 4) secundairy coil resisantce 11.81 Kohm. So all spot on when comparing it with the manual. Only thing i don't know how to do is to measure the coil pick up. But regarding the resistance is all good i don't suspect it
9) Tested the TPS with a feeler gauge and it was also spot on
10) applied vacuum to the map sensor and measured the voltage output and it's 100% perfect
11) Coolant temp sensor resistance was 2.85 Kohm, so also exactly what the manual says
12) Tested fuel presssure with +b and FP connected, with running engine with FRP vacuum hose disconnected and with vacuum hose connected. Values are all within spec. When pinch the line the pressure goes up, so that's also perfect.
13) ....

Maybe we did even more but this is what we've done for sure. Only thing i could think of now is a defective ECU or Coil, but that last one i don't suspect as much. I thought about a clogged cat, but then vacuum should drop and with only 130k it's unlikely.

Hope someone has the golden tip for me, cause this is so frustrating. It's our daily driver. :-(
Tomorrow i'm going to unscrew the ECU to read the pinout, so i can measure the voltages directly at the ECU.

This is really an awesome Celica! Well done!

Just curious...what is the weight of the flywheel?

Hi,

There isn't any unfortunately. I had the same problem with my Blacktop swap in my at200. But in my case the blacktop header fitted my stock 7AFE downpipe. Though the 7AFE downpipe is ofcourse in no way as big as the blacktop. So if you want to swap, you can swap the blacktop in and make a custom setup later on. The blacktop still drives well with the stock setup. I did 215 km/h on gps with the stock setup. On the 7AFE i couldn't go past 200 km/h on the gps.

Up!

New price € 150,- for both lips ex shipping. Firm price though!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhwDmiikkcE

^^
That's from about 30 to about 170 km/h rolling start. I think when starting right i'm able to hit 100 in about 8 seconds. This is with the stock 7AFE exhaust, silvertop flywheel, stock C52 7AFE gearbox, apexi open air intake.



All the Japanese cars are limited @180 km/h. With the 17" rims it was 190+ km/h on gps and with this 15" about 180+ km/h. But in 5th gear it really misses some torque. Stock 7AFE gears are pretty long.

What an awesome build!! WOW!

+1

Was indeed a lot simpler then i thought it'd be. On some videos on youtube i see people removing the axle, which is absolutely not necessary on the Celica.

So it has been done

Biggest problem was for the pin to come out. It was completely stuck. So we drilled the pin out. A friend of mine had a ball joint puller and that was really handy The pin was taking 30 minutes of our time i guess...remounting maybe 15 minutes i think.

The air tools were also handy for removing, but even more for mounting it.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Some pictures:

The old ball joint:


My brothers dog in wondering if i can and should put the old ball joint back in :


The new ball joint in place:

Long time no updates so here we go with some little updates:

I've tectylated (hope that's the right term) the underside of the car to prevent it from rusting:









Besides that i thought it was time to grab a HKS SLD. I live about 5 km from the german border and i hate it that with 180 km/h it's all over. Not that i drive that often, but when i want i don't want to have the speed limiter. Installation was a piece of cake. After that i 'quickly' tried a topspeed run and it goes about 211 km/h on gps (220+ on tacho) in 4th gear. When changing to 5th gear it keeps the speed but doesn't want to go any faster. That's the disadvantage of the C52 gearbox with the exteme long 5th gear incombination with the 20V. I think when i'm ready with the exhaust (i'm using my stock 7AFE downpipe which is only 1.5 inch!!!) and ready with the 6 speed gearbox i'll be able to go around the 220-225 mark.


Within a few weeks i'm going for the new exhaust and decided to go for 'only' 2 inch and grab a stock AE111 downpipe (2.25"). So my setup will be (all in outside diameters:
- Stock header: 1.75 inch i believe
- Stock downpipe: 2.25 inch
- Stock 7AFE Catalytic converter: 2.5 inch (i think in the US the diameter is 2" stock)
- Custom centre section: 2.0 inch with Simons chambered muffler (yes flow is a not as good as a free flow, but for noise this is the best option )
- Stock Celica 2.0 3SGE rear section: 2.0 inch with chambered muffler

And the gearbox....i hope to mount it soon. Didn't had the time to do that yet I checked if it was LSD or not and it is. Let's see that in the picture:


EDIT: I forgot that i bought a nice AE111 Levin goodie. An OEM Apexi intake pipe. The filter was completely gone but i bought a new one from rhdjapan.com. You can hear that filter a lot more then the old Ramair filter. It's growls nicely

Pictures:

Hello,

I have 2 OEM Euro bumper lips for sale.

The first one is still in the OEM colour and is in a good condition except for the 3 plastic lips. They were broken and i've fixed them but when i'd use the lip i would have redone this. But a good paintshop or a handy person can fix this easily. And one tab has as small crack. Besides that it's in a good condition but needs a repaint anyway.

The second one (that i've bought as a spare) already had some work on it. It only needs to be sanded and resprayed. Only 1 tab from 1 plastic lip is broken, but that's really easily to fix. Another small tab has a little tear but it's still good enough to mount it with or otherwise extremely easy to fix.

I've made as much pictures as i could of the lips which you can see in my photobucket album: http://s830.photobucket.com/user/onnaj1000...rary/Euro%20lip

I want to sell them for €90,- per lip including packaging (which will be a lot of work )

Shipping would be extremely expensive, about € 250,-. Checked for other options but that's the cheapest i've found. So maybe combined shipping is an option. Or buy them both and sell one over there

For more info please send me a pm.

According to the guy that works at Toyota it should be doable without removing the axle. He adviced to remove the wheel for more room. The 2 bolts underneath the arm will be easy i guess...the axle has been removed about 10k km ago during the blacktop swap.

Wow that's a lot to do!

You're well maintaining the car! Like to see that!

I have air tools happily

Isn't a better option then to get the whole axle out? That way i won't have to change the transmission fluid again. Instelling a seal isn't always necessary. When changing the engine i kept the old seal.

That's the thing i mean i guess. The lower ball joint.

Is it that easy? Thought i had to remove the wheel, put the Car on jacks etc etc.

I have 2 lips for sale at the moment. My old one and one that has some preperations for painting but most be sanded (hope that's the right name for it ).

The second lip misses only 1 little piece further then that it's complete. So if you know another person that's in need of a lip too, then you can share the shipment costs.

Are there more screws then the big one to adjust the height? Cause that one does nothing so i'm afraid the adjustment of the headlicht is broke

My car failed the yearly test due to the headlight aimed to low to the ground. I found one big screw to adjust them but they do about nothing, are there other ways to adjust the hight of the lights (except from inside the car )

Thanks!

Hello,

My celica didn't pass the yearly test because of a worn ball joint cover and the light adjustment.

I'm wondering though how to replace the ball joint? Can't find a write up about it unfortunately so i don't know how much work is involved with it.
Is it also possible to just change the boot for an aftermarket one?

Thanks!

Okay thanks a lot. I might grab a beams exhaust then (if available) for my 4AGE 20V Blacktop. I wanted to go for 2" OD but that might be a bit too small for the blacktop regarding the fact it hits 8200 rpm sometimes. I think 2.5"might be a bit too thick. 2.25" seems to be perfect but over here most people that make customs exhausts do have 2" or 2.5" mufflers but not 2.25"

Hello,

Can someone tell me the exact Celica SS3 Beams exhaust diameters? I'm curious what the diameter is of the middle centre and of the pipe that goes to the muffler. Please mention if you're measuring inside or outside diameters.

As for as i know the beams uses the same piping as the europe 3SGE Gen 3 engines and that's an outside diameter of 2".

Thanks