6G Celicas Forums

Which light? I have a set of lows at hope that I can check the part numbers for you (I'm sure there on here in the stickies somewhere though... Everything always is ).

Then what you need are some arbor plates.

i just use needle nose pliers. remember to wear safety googles as they are under high tension when you compress the ring.

Then what you need are some arbor plates.

don't use a pipe as it could buckle on you.

get a punch set.

two flat head screw drivers will work if you don't have any

That's actually a pipe. Use a pipe that has the same diameter or a little bit smaller if you wish to press out them bearings.

You need a pair of (large) snap ring pliers.

If u look.carefully... the inner race is just the cover to the ball bearing. The image you posted is all you need plus the inner and outter seals.

i would buy the whole bearing new... weather someone on here has one or not. most parts stores will sell them of around $50 or so... might be more or less, also try rockauto.com.

How would the tire size 215 40 R17 work out? If i am correct that would mean i need a rim size of 17" x 8.5" right? Gunmetal sounds like a good pick for color but what kind? I dont know anything about rims or where to buy them so if anyone knows a good place local or online it would be much appreciated. Also suggestions on what brand and if i should go with an offset to avoid using spacers?

No you can't loosen bleeder screw or you will have to bleed the whole system
just remove the brake filler cap beforehand to let the pressure out.
Just (I am looking at your pic for reference), take out the pads and squeeze the piston back in very slowly with one side of the c clamp on the piston and the other on the back of the brake caliper( area next to brake line connection). It will go back slowly. I have done it 100 times always works. Just make sure to put the cap back on the resivour ( how do you spell that) after you have it all reassembled , before you press the brake pedal.
Good luck.

I dont know if you have succeeded yet?

When you say "several point of rust"...where abouts? it wont take much rust/corrosion to jam up a piston enough to stop it from fully returning. if that rust happens to be making contact with the seal, simply forcing it back in will not do you any favours at all. It can lead to damage to the seal which at best will leave you with leaking brakes, at worst brake failure (a little over dramatic but it can easily happen).

Using a C-Clamp to push the piston back in will easily give you enough force to return the piston home (normally you should be able to do it by hand) if that is not working then there is perhaps another issue going on that needs investigating before any permanent damage is done.

The two most common reasons for the piston not being able to be pushed in....as mentioned corrosion on the piston making contact with the seal, or the piston being forced in such a way that it is now at a slight angle to the calliper, using a c-clamp usually pushes the piston straight! unless you have tried before to lever it in using a screw driver or something?

Maybe another photo or the corrosion might help.


or am I too late and you now have it all sorted?

I dont think you will need any tools, remove the brake pads, press the brake pedal once or twice, enough to push the piston out by a half inch or so, remove the rubber boot, you might need a small flat blade screw driver to wangle the metal spring clip off the outside of the boot. once the boot is removed look at the brake piston, if its nice and clean then you should be able to push it back in, However, corrosion will cause the piston to jam against the seal which is perhaps why it wont go back in. You will need to replace the piston with a new or rust free second hand one, in an ideal world you should change the seal too, but you can sometimes get away with reusing the old one if it has not suffered any damage.

Oh I would not do all that. Take out the brake pads(remembering how they go) and just get a c clamp and press the caliper back slowly moving side to side.
Make sure to remove brake resiviour cap because your fluid will rise back up, and put the cap BACK on before pressing the brakes after you are done. Or you will have to bleed brakes.

Remove the rubber boot and check for corrosion.