6G Celicas Forums

Great! Thank you Special_Edy and njccmd2002. I will just replace the seal, and reseat the dust cap. Hopefully that solves my transmission leak. Thank you again!

Hi All,

I am leaking some transmission fluid at where the passenger axle meets the transmission.



And I noticed the metal ring that was supposed to be at the end of the axle covering the seal inside the transmission was loose and separated like so



So my question is the leak from the rubber seal? Or is that little ring on the axle supposed to keep the oil in the transmission? Should I replace the seal? Replace the axle? Or somehow make the metal ring sit in its proper place?



Thank you very much! Any advice would be appreciated!

As an update for anyone else in the future that has this issue. It turns out to be a fairly large vacuum leak.

So I tried to adjust the base timing today. I ensured that my idle rpm was at 800. Then I jumped TE1 and E1, the car would stall no matter what position the distributor was in (I turned the distributor trying to find a position where it wouldn't stall). However, I noticed that if I give it a little gas by holding the throttle a little, it would be okay. However, once I let go of the throttle, the car would immediately stall. Any more ideas?

Thanks for the reply Special_Edy. I really appreciate the thorough explanation. I will be sure to check the base timing. I noticed that in the manual they instruct to check idling rpm with a tachometer connected to the diagnosis port. Do you think reading the in dash tachometer would be sufficient enough? Thanks

Hey All, I would like to ask for some help. I was trying to check my ignition timing before I went for a smog check. But when I jump TE1 and E1, the car starts idling really rough and would almost die (did one time too). Would anyone know where I should start looking? The car idles and drives perfectly fine. I did take apart my car when I replaced the head gasket. But I had a neighbor was is a mechanic check the camshaft and crankshaft timing. Thank you in advance.

Anyways, I gave up and took it to the mechanic. Turns out you guys were right, it was just as simple as a loose ground. Unluckily for me though, I was unable to find it. But if anyone has a similar issue, be sure to check all the grounds!

Bump. Anyone willing to show me the picture of the grounding wires?

So I still haven't gotten the car to run.... I haven't been able to find that ground wire you guys have been talking about. Is there any chance that you have a picture of the ground that your talking about? Thanks.

So I haven't been able to work on my car or check this forum since school started.

Okay, so to update, the car still isn't sparking. I've tried unplugging the ECU for about 5 hours and then plugging it back in , but still no luck.

I was hoping that would fix it since my temp gauge would go to max hot, the radiator fan would kick in, and the CEL would come on after trying to cranking it just like Smaay described.

But my car shows the symptom that Special_Edy is describing. When the ignition is on the ON position, the CEL doess not illuminate. I will be checking for the ground today. I've got my fingers crossed though....

That is exactly what happens to my car! When I take out the key, the CEL comes on and then the temp goes to max and the fan kicks in. I'll try that, thank you very much!




Wait.. I thought there were only 2 grounds?! One on the transmission and one near the engine hook..

Thanks for the info! I also discovered a really weird issue, there is a check engine light that stays on even after the key is pulled out... So for today, I'm going to take the car back apart see if I missed anything.....

So now I'm down to a really weird problem. I already have a new distributor, ignition coil , and ignition control module. I've already checked all the fuses and all the relays click when I test it with a 9v battery. The 2 grounding straps are connected (one on tranny and one on the engine). Still no spark out of the ignition coil. I also used a grounded test light to check the positive terminal going into the coil and it went on. So what am I missing?!??

So would a bad distributor or bad cam sensor cause a no spark even if I'm using a spark tester between the coil and ground? In other words, does the distributor have feedback to the ignition system? Thanks.

Does my car come with a crank sensor? If so, where can I find it? The manual says its supposed to be right next to the crank pulley. However, its no where to be found. I spent a good 2 hours trying to find it....

Hey guys, I did put a bolt in the exhaust cam before i took the cams off. I didn't take the bolt off until I reinstalled the cam. It's just that the photo seems to be at a weird angle.



I'm pretty sure my cams are in time with the crankshaft. But I discovered a couple of days ago that I wasn't getting spark. (I forgot to check just thinking it was my timing) I checked the resistance on the ignition coil and it seems to be fine. Then I took in the ignition control module to a parts store which they also tested to be fine.

So what else could be wrong? The car sat outside for about 3 months without being started. The crankshaft position sensor?

After double checking everything, I noticed that a prong must have broken off on this thing near the a/c. Could this one prong be messing me up?



94 celica gt california

Thanks guys for the input!

Well the cams came out because I took the cylinder head to a machine shop. So I was hoping I installed the camshafts properly.

Hi guys! So I've replaced my head gasket on my 5SFE. But after putting my car back together, my car didn't want start. This is how it sounds like (click on the video to watch it).



So I suspected that my timing was off, so I took off the valve cover to check the timing marks on the camshafts. So the timing mark lined up like so



Though I'm not too sure what the two dots mean on the exhaust camshaft since there are not two similar dots on the intake camshaft.



So I'll assume that I have my camshafts lined up properly But how do I know that it is in time with the pistons?

Does anyone have some insight? Could it be the distributor? I am not too sure if I installed it correctly, but I did follow instructions in the Chilton manual.

On the other end, there were two vacuum lines that I'm not sure if I installed correctly. I'm positive that the left two pipes are correct; however, I'm not too sure about the two on the right. This is mounted on the cylinder head.




Keep in mind that I haven't started the car in a little over 2 months. So could something have gone wrong for the time its been sitting outside?


Thanks everyone in advance.

Sincerely,
lost, hopeless amateur

Dang, Thanks. I've only ever gotten OEM parts at the dealer. Thanks a ton!

Thanks for all the replies. Especially Special_Edy for writing a short and concise write up. I will certainly put a MLS gasket on. I do love OEM parts, but they always cost a arm and a leg. I saw a Victor Reinz MLS head gasket set for only $90, so I'll probably be using that unless anyone else tells me otherwise.

Would you recommend any other brand then? OEM gasket is going to cost me $88 while aftermarket parts I can a whole head gasket set anywhere from $47 to $120.

Hi Peeps. I'm sorry for always asking a lot of questions..So a while back my car started overheating, so I took it to the dealer (since I was 500 miles away from home). They told me that the head gasket blew. But they weren't going to replace the head gasket for me. But they offered to put in a rebuilt engine for $3000. So I just had it towed home and its been sitting there for about a month. So since it's finally winter break, I want to try and replace the head gasket myself. Anyways enough with the story. I've called a local machine shop and they said they would check for cracks, flatness and etc on the head for $110. So I'm thinking about ordering the parts:

1. Fel-Pro Headgasket Set for $93
2. Fel-Pro Head bolts for $15.

Are there any suggestions/ comments about the parts? Would these be suitable parts? Any tips or hints? This would be the largest project I've undertaken. My largest projects would be the clutch and timing belt. I've been looking in the forum, but can't find much about replacing a HG. So I'll just be following my Chilton manual as close as possible.

Also, is there always a cause for a head gasket to blow? Could it just deteriorate due to age/mileage? My car already has a new water pump and thermostat, so I was wondering if I should replace the radiator as well. Opinions?

Hey Smaay,

I'll message you. How much are you willing to do a rebuild? I'd be willing to do all the transportation. It's not in a rush either since I have spare car.




I've been don a engine rebuild, but I have replaces head gaskets. So what are some ways to check whether or not my cylinders are warped? Or if there is more damage other than the head gasket?

Thanks for all of the advice. Yeah, I kinda feel like the dealership is trying to pull a fast one.

I've already pulled out the thermostat. My guess is that its the head gasket. I'll try to take it apart to see if the engine is warped or not.

But thank you! If it is, I'll go look for a used engine. Thanks again!

Hi everyone! So I'm kinda stuck and not sure what I should do with my car. Basically, the dealer told me that my headgasket blew and probably messed up my whole engine. I'm new to this, so what should I replace it with? Should I go with used, rebuilt, or a new crate motor? What would be the cheapest option? I've been looking around and see some rebuilts for about $750. But I'm not sure if its worth it. I have the 2.2 5SFE motor. Thanks everyone