6G Celicas Forums

8 speaker (1 tweeter in each mirror triangle, 2 in each door (4"and 6.5"), 1 in each rear panel)


actually in the premium audio package the doors house 8" drivers, some models such as the Kicker SSMB8's will not fit the bracket perfectly, thus require some modifications

[quote=Kwanza26,Jul 25, 2005 - 5:20 PM]make an offer... I have both.
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Hey guys, alot of you have upgraded to the JDM style tail lights, if any of you have a drivers side or BOTH set of stock tail lights for an ST204 hatchback, please let me know.

I have for sale:

A pair of Pioneer 3 way 6x9's 220 watts (never been used)
A pair of fuse holders
A set of 10 30 amp fuses.
Various sizes of shrink tubing
4 gauge wires (positive and negative)
Battery Terminals

Please feel free to contact me via AIM about these sales.

I am actually using two Kenwood Amps, one 4 channel (4x75 w) and a kenwood 2 channel pushing 300 watts over each channel.

Did you close up the battery in your subwoofer box? What design did you use to hold down the battery? Also, would you say that handling improved?

So after hours slaving away at the car, taking apart pieces of dash, brackets and electrical tape, the car is finally DONE! So I'll start off by listing the new pieces that went in.
Pioneer DEH8600 MP (headunit)\
Pioneer 4" 2 way 100 watt speakers
Stock Toyota Premium Tweeters
Kicker SSMB8 Mid-bass drivers in the doors
Pioneer 6.5" 3 wat 220 watt speakers for rear
Kicker COMPVR 10" Sub
Custom Enclosure in MDF housing both battery and sub.
LOADS OF DYNAMAT!

I'll start off by saying we ran 4 gauge wiring from the starter to an opening in the firewall near the steering column. Mounted a fuse holder with fuse on the firewall within easy reach. Ran the wires near the fuses of the interior and down the same factory wiring channeling to the back. I replaced all of the old speaker wire 12, 14, and 16 gauge wires. 14 gauge wire and a pair of 16 gauge wires were able to fit through the old sleeve in the door, NO SLOPPY WIRES!

For the 4's I had to compeletly destory the old speakers because they were built in to the brackets, it required dremeling out enough room to put the pioneers in place. The 8's were the hardest, they DID NOT fit directly into the bracket, I had to cut about a 1/4 - 1/2 inch ring out of the bracket to get the door panel to close properly, in addition to mounting the driver on small pieces of 4 gauge wire sheath.

Later this week I will be modifying the rear sets so they come down as one, the amps will be drilled to the backs of those seats and I will put some 80 mm computer case fans on top of the "hatch cover" to provide for enough air flow.
I will post some pictures when the interior is all cleaned up and in place

I'm actually going to go with a mid-bass driver in the doors. I'll have to figure out a way to put in two tens with out sacrificing any of the trunk space, which I need. If any of you have suggestions on good locations, with out going too custom, it would be awesome. PICS?

what exactly is the difference between "subwoofer" and "woofer"? I'll make sure to inquire about infinite baffle.

Yes thought about an amp. Im not sure which model yet, but I know I want to wire the 6x9's and the 8's up. No way that the HU will power them to my liking. Does any 8" woofer fit the door? Depth and vibration a problem?

So I decided to finally go full aftermarket with the speakers in my celica. problem is that I have the premium audio package. I have a total of 8 speakers in my car.
These include:
8" paper woofers in the door
4"midrange components in the door
3/4" tweeters in the door
6x9 in the rear.

I have already purchased a Pioneer 8600MP for the HU. And pioneer's 3 way 6x9 and 4" speaker. Would any one have any recommendations on subs that will fit the door? I want sound thats loud and crisp. I was going to go with Polk Momo 8" subs. Any further suggestions?

I am going to make sure to get pictures of the project. I plan on moving the battery to the back. I have to do all custom wiring because of a funky "not standard" premium amp (the wiring harness for the 89+ toyotas doesnt match). Any comments would be more than helpful.

I love the look of wide rear fenders like the 930 body 911's. Has anyone done any custom work on their celica to widen the rear of the car behind the doors and over the wheels?

My electrical system has gone hay-wire! I've changed the alternator on my 95 celica gt. Which as I'm sure all of you know is quite simple and self-explanatory (something a five year old that can hold a wrench can probably do). I pulled into a gas station turned off my car, and it would not turn the motor. For a while some of my accessories worked, the lights would not (they clicked). I have a charged battery that holds a constant voltage at 12.7. I've checked the polarity of the alternator with a volt meter, looks good. Here's the odd part, I put in the battery and ground locations such as the engine and strut mount are holding a 9 volt charge! My car will not start at all, only displays the battery and oil light. Any ideas? Do any of you have a wire diagram that might be able to help me out? I've got the Hayes manual, but its not helping much.

235/40/R17 on Pireli PZero Nero's M&S

well right now the air bag cover can easily lift from the front, so my plan is to make it basically like a hinge. When I'm in the car my plan is to have the head unit accesible it will be laying horizontally (parallel to the ground), I'm going to make some custom brackets that will hold it in place while the cover is up. I do plan to get an amp, not sure what wattage yet. I've got some buddies that I went to high school with that want to take a crack at trying to get my head unit out. They dont know where Im planning on putting it. My main goal is to maintain the stock look and have the audio performance hidden. I'll see if I can post a picture of the idea, maybe drawing, maybe with the head unit?

Thats why you get the head unit that plays mp3's and wma's so you only have to change cd's once every 4-6 hours. As far as adjustments, came with a remote so that will be taken care of. Now like you said power will be an issue, the old factory radio will not have power. Actually I'm going to make a relay switch so I can toggle between the two. I'll post about details. Has anyone changed the LED's on the factory radio to make them red?

I am completely bewildered. My celi has the 8 speaker, premium sound option, I was trying to replace my stereo last weekend, and pulling my dash apart I noticed that I had the factory amp, explained in the how-to article. I had a secondry amp under my drivers seat. Heres the juicy part, the wire harness going into my factory radio does not match the 1987+ harness. Instead of being two plugs into the radio it only has one! WTF? I have decided to team up with a buddy of mine to relocate the battery, put my new headunit inside the passenger airbag cover (my car was salvaged so the airbags dont work), we're planing on putting small actuators that with a switch will lift the panel exposing the unit, for heat a small 80mm pc fan inside to cool the unit. What do you guys think? And does anyone else have that single plug?

I just got a Pioneer DEH-8600 MP, my Celica has got a premium audio system, but the two front woofers just blew out...I figured I'd just replace the entire system. I want to get 2 10" Woofers for the back however being that I'm an avid scuba diver and mountain biker I need trunkspace readily available. I'm thinking about building a custom box, can I get some outlook from some other guys. Pics maybe? Thanks much.

-Box

Actually you're car is a ST204. I have a 95 GT Hatch. The Greddy SP Exhaust is still available at this site called "modacar". I'll try and get a link for you.

Im using Castrol 10W30, its great stuff, but as mentioned it tends to leak and also early morning shifting can be hard, Im think of going back to petroleum base. Yes it is possible!

Where the heck did all of those JDM projectors and tails run off to? I've got a 95 GT hatch and would love to get some projectors up front and some JDM tails in back. Can anyone lead me in the direction where I can get them. I asked the dealer and they said they dont have an official part no.

Every morning I have to get into my car, the first time I start up it stalls or I get the accelerator going quick enough that the rpms can help warm the engine. What I'd like to find out is if there's any way that I can adjust the idle valve for start up so the engine warms up but I dont stall as soon as I pull up to a stop sign or light.

hell yea those are awesome, when you start making them let me know may put my name down. Great gauges!

I took a good look at the clutch that came out, the spaces between the tiny circles on the clutch were uneven, showing that the guy who sold it to me...the guy who also lied and sold me a salvaged car (f***ing jack a**) also lied about when he changed out the clutch. Now that I've replaced it seems to be doing fine, BTW I still shift in the upper RPMs when I feel like giving her a little bit of a push, and I still get 32 mpg. In fact I was on vapor this morning and still took her up to 5k. Hehe. Blew away a Civic in the process. Anywho, it seems to have resolved the problem, Im leaving for my trip this Friday.

Another question however, when I start my car and its cold, the idle remains at 850 rpm and stalls. How can I adjust the idle rpm for start up? I know theres a valve but I cant seem to find it. Also my lazy ass might need cruise control on my drive, the cruise control function doesnt work for some reason, is it controlled by computer or by-wire like some of those old beemers? Thanks again

Last week I experienced a serious problem with my transmission. While driving, I was shifting normally at 4500 rpm, and all of a sudden while in midshift it jammed, I could not select any gear, as desperately as I tried I had to run my baby down a hill in neutral and hope to swing her around to get back to the house. My mechanic has told me that the springs on the clutch exploded. Any of you guys with more mechanical experience have any idea how this happened?

My plan is to take a trip to Reno from Los Angeles this Friday. Do you think with this car just after the flywheel, clutch, and t.o. bearing were taken care of it will be safe to take?

the only difference between the two is the new SP2 is stainless steel finish all the way, from the port on the header to the tip of the muff. I called Greddy also to see what they said, and they just told me that parts for our cars were discontinued. So much for that, time to do some research on SP2