6G Celicas Forums

As of right now my celica has 206041 mi. I changed the thermostat last summer when I replaced my radiator, so not sure why it failed. The week before I had serious issues, my car was idling at 1200 rpms at stop lights. No idea why I didn't think to change out the thermostat sooner.

Sure as **** it was the thermostat. Not sure why i didn't check that in the first place. just glad to have my car up and running again! :runaround:

Well, I replaced the thermostat, temp sensor, and did a full coolant flush. Took the car out for a drive today and didn't have any issues. Made multiple stops while out on a 30 mile drive since thats when the issue popped up the most. I'll be taking my car in to work tomorrow for a full shift so fingers crossed.

Quite possibly. I replaced my IACV just to be safe. Took my car for a long distance test drive (15 miles) and my car overheated when I got back. The dash readout was in the normal range, but she was smoking pretty bad. I'll be doing a coolant flush, replace thermostat, and replace temp sensor Thursday. Gonna feel dumb if the thermostat was the underlying issue

Just wanted to clarify. Thank you, I'll test it Sunday

is that the sensor in the radiator or the one on the block?

NGK iridium plugs and Bosch wires.

Also I don't have the old ones anymore.

I suppose I should note that I've had the car for the last 25k miles and just replaced the spark plugs/wires about a month ago. Didn't have problems before last week. I'm at a loss here if a new iacv won't fix my issue.

Car starts fine and runs fine on cold starts. On hot starts, like after running into a gas station, car is a pain to get started and once started idles at 1800-2000 rpm. I already pulled the iacv and cleaned it (it also spec'd out within range @20.6 ohms) the other day, should I just replace it? Or is there some other reason my car would be idling this high?

preferably grade A or better

Pm'd about driver side seat rail

Thanks for the advice guys. With the feedback I've gathered, I'll be setting some time aside in the near future to do an overhaul on all the parts in the timing area. I'll probably also do a compression test, and pop the valve cover and oil pan off at the same time to do an inspection/general cleaning. What is an acceptable range for each cylinder when i go to test them? Also, I should note that although I'm using the car for delivery right now, I'd rather not be. My other car took a crap and this was supposed to be a project car.

My car has 205k. Pulls strong, just has a tick in the top end if I'm not running 10w40, has a high pitch whine from the timing area,and leaks from the crankshaft seal. Going to be replacing the seals, water pump, and timing belt/tensioner soon. Just worried something else will fail.

Was looking into it mainly due to it being a budget friendly option. My celica is a daily driver right now that's used for delivery. I can get a 3sfe shipped to my door for about $700, any low millage 5s engines I've seen are $1k and up plus shipping. Ideally I'd like a beams, I just don't know how long my current engine will last(leaks a qt of oil per tank of fuel Amongst a few other small issues) and allow me to save up.

Was looking into dropping one of these into my car in the near future to replace my ageing 5s. From what I've read, it's just a 2.0 ltr version of the 5sfe. Does anyone know if common replacement parts like the water pump, seals, gaskets etc are the same?

Figured I'd give a small update. Still haven't gotten a chance to pull things apart and get it looked at, been on 60+ hour work weeks. My best guess at this point is that my spare knuckle was bad also, or just a bad bearing/press job. Hopefully I'll get things tore down on Thursday and be able to give a better update.

That was the 1st thing that CarQuest said when i called them up to ask about the press job they did. Gonna tear things down again and bring it up to them and have them take a look at it.

Just to clear things up, in October I went to a junkyard and bought a hub/steering knuckle assembly. At the time I only used the hub and saved the steering knuckle as a spare. It wasn't until early march that I pulled the steering knuckle from spare status and put it on my car when I had purchased a brand new wheel hub as well as new bearing, tie-rod end and lower ball joint. The car came with 18x8 +41 offset wheels, I pulled them off for the winter and installed 16" MKIII jetta wheels (which are currently installed and have been since November). I've never ran hub spacers. The 1st 2 times I replaced the bearing, I had just tightened the axle nut until i figured it was tight. The 3rd time i tightened it to 137ft-lbs which i had found at http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecmm.aspx?KI=504. And as for driving style, I deliver pizzas and this is my daily driver. I drive 600-800 miles a week. I work in downtown Minneapolis, the roads are complete ****. But that brings me back to square one as to why only this bearing has been burning out, and only this bearing none of the others. Thanks for the replys guys, sorry for the wall of text.

For some reason i keep burning through wheel bearings on my front passenger side. Here's a timeline of the issues replaced:

October 12' - Replaced hub with junkyard hub/timkin bearing/seal kit, reused the steering knuckle that came on my car.
January 13' - Replaced bearing and seals again and was advised to order in a new hub and to get a new steering knuckle (mine was in rough shape I guess)
Early March 13' - Used a new (junkyard) knuckle, new timkin bearing/seal kit, new oem hub, new lower ball joints (both sides), new tie-rod ends (both sides), front end alignment.

I've put maybe 1500 miles on my car since early march and the bearing is shot again. I'm at a loss trying to figure out what is the root cause of this.

Edit: I have a 1994 Celica GT (10/94) w/5 speed manual