6G Celicas Forums

Ohh the Chino meet.... this was my first meet in 05 when I first got my celi. Put me down +1 as a Maybe... since I might be in some other state for work that weekend (don't know yet).

Mine is missing! Me too! For the time being I used a wine bottle cork that I took a knife to and shaved the bottom a bit to make it fit. I screwed it in so I could take it out when I go to replace it with an actual plug.

So after taking a look at it myself, I found that I was missing the Fill Plug on the transmission!!!!! It must have came off or the ****ers at the tranny shop didn't put it back on. I was riding around without gear oil for about 3 weeks!

I wasn't able to find another plug at autozone/pep boys/kragen so I improvised and used a wine bottle cork!

But basically after putting 2.5L of Syncromesh oil in and corking it, the car has been running like a dream since.

Lesson learned, if you see oil, bitch at the tranny shop. I'll be raising hell later with them when I actually get a chance to take it in.

Also, its pretty tough to get it into Reverse. But its been like that for over a year now.

My car was leaking a bunch of fluid when I got it back from the transmission shop to have my clutch installed. At first I thought it was engine oil, but after figured out it wasn't that, I just thought it was some extra oil or something (really didn't know).

Now I think it might have been transmission oil. My transmission is making some whining sounds and shifts are getting harder. Do they normally drain transmission fluid when replacing a clutch? I didn't think that was necessary. Should I just take it in for a transmission fluid flush?

It jsut started like 2 days ago, but when I go to put it in 5th, the shifter is really stiff and when I force it, it sorta catches, but as soon as I let go of the clutch, it starts to grab but then the shifter moves back to neutral. I was able to get it to catch a few times, but it whines like a mofo....

How can I check the fluid myself? What else could it be? Please help!

LOL, so much for my attempt to contribute.... shows how much I read 6gc forums these days...

Link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hvv5qGRbEA

Would water/alcohol injection resolve this? I've been reading up on the devil's own kit and am seriously considering it being that I already run 15 degrees timing and I'd like to run more but I get pinging from 91 octane, but If I went with DO's W/A I. the effective octane would be 110+....

So I got the mounts installed along with a brand new Excedy stage 2 clutch and all I have to say is WOW! Its like a new car! It handles like a dream and has so much more power to the ground. HIGHLY recommend them. I could see that some people don't like the vibration, but I LOVE IT! then again, I love my exhaust which is very loud anyways.

Basically, if you want the handling and don't mind the vibration, its worth it.

P.S. Installation was fool proof. Super easy when you changed your cutch.

Seriously, I'm thinking about getting a 84 benz and mod it to run on 100% vegetable oil. http://www.lovecraftbiofuels.com/ I actually checked out this place, and saw the system working. It has a heat exchanger which gets heat from the engine coolant to melt the vegetable oil so it's not all viscus. For start up there is a special exchanger that uses the glow plugs to heat the oil for the initial startup.

But yeah... until then, I'd recommend just getting a high flow cat which increases hp while still cleaning the emissions (and passing smog) and I'm seriously considering getting water/alcohol injection to reduce the emissions and get better fuel efficiency and extra hp.

****! You guys aren't going to believe this. I bought a stage 2 kevlar clutch with a 11lbs light weight flywheel from ezclutch on ebay (http://www.ezclutchnparts.com) for ONLY $396 shipped. The clutch/flywheel looked great, but I didn't get around to installing it until yesterday. Of course its a 6 hole model when I needed the 8 hole... so the dude would only take it back at a 25% restock fee ($100) cause I was trying to rush this thing to have it done for tomorrow's meet. So I'm out $200 in labor, and $380 for just a stage 2 metal clutch (6 puck, lesser quality), but I don't have much choice right now. And I'm still stuck with my old heavy stock flywheel.

Talk about teh suq. So I spent $680 just to have my clutch changed with a lower quality stage 2 metal. And they didn't get all the parts today so they couldn't finish and I'm out a car until monday. ****ING SUCKS.

Yeah I'm pissed, but there isn't much I can do. So unless I can get a ride from Northridge... i'm out.




I guess the good news is that I got my Kirkasaurus Engine mounts and installed. I found out that my rear engine mount was completely destroyed. The Kirk mounts are the only thing holding it together, but I have faith in the polyurethane.

Looks like I'm upgraded my maybe to a definite yes w/ a plus 1.

I still need to install the new clutch + flywheel, new fog lights, clean up the stereo wiring a bit, and get a it detailed. Not sure if the kirk's engine mounts will show up on time... but if not, no biggie. Other than that, I should be good to go.

I redid my giant sub box with a real nice professional vented one which sounds 10x better.




If I'm going, your going. end of convo. =P

Just send some monies via paypal....

Can't wait to put these bad boys in with my new stage 2 clutch and 11.5 lbs flywheel... *excited*

July 28th is kinda far in the future, but I should be able to do it. So..... put me down as a *Maybe* and I guess I could bring some sweets (cookies/etc) or anything that's needed.

When I bought my car, the lady was asking $4,500, but when I popped the hood and saw a the steaming radiator (squirting fluid up too), I made the offer for $3,500 and she bit. So, I changed the radiator and then 3 weeks go buy and it starts leaking again. Thankfully the place I used had a lifetime warranty on it and I got another one. I haven't had a cooling problem since... well until I found out that my car burns oil.

Make sure you have plenty of oil. Our 94 GT hatches like oil... alot. Well all 5sfe engines over 75k miles do.

First, I'd like to thank you guys for your input. After fulling removing the distributor and reattaching it, I was able to get the timing to the full 15 degrees. I've found that this runs fine with 91 octane. I found the best way to test it is to get going about 10 mph and then pop it in 5th and floor it... totally stressing the engine. If you hear any chattering, then you've advanced it too much or need higher octane. I haven't even burned a full tank yet, but from what I can see so far, I'm about 3-4mpg more plus I notice some seroius low end torque improvements. I was indeed running retarted at 0 degrees.

Thanks again everyone!

If you don't need the interior of that door, I'd buy it from you assuming it looks good.

I did this some time ago, but I'm finally sick of not having the correct speed show up on my speedo. I installed a sexy LED panel overlay which sits right under the needles in the instrument panel. When I installed the panel, I put a little too much pressure on the speedo needle and I hear a cracking sound. Since then, My speedo has been off at least + or - 20mph... which blows. I should have taken off the needles when I installed the overlay.

Where can I get a replacement just for the Speedo? Or do I need to buy the whole panel?

I had the exact same problem.. and now I have a hole in my wheel well cover! I took out the CAI because of the turning grinds.... I hated it. I'm still looking for a better CAI solution. I like that custom job that mounts behind the radiator....except is that really CAI? radiator is hot = not cold air....

Just keep a small fire extinguisher handy in your trunk or under your passanger seat (where mine is).

I just hit 150k miles and I burn 1 qt. every 3-4 tanks of gas (800-1100 miles or so). I notice blue smoke when I first start the car... and it smells really bad. But driving after it warms up = no smoke and no smell. I remember reading somewhere that there is some kind of value gasket that needs to be changed every 65k miles to stop this.

What would it take to change it? If I gota tear apart the engine, I might as well do some mods as well. Until then is the Costco 8pk of Castrol GTX 10w40 for me.

This car actually isn't from CA... I bought it from a girl who just moved from New Jersey...it didn't even have a front license plate mount. I was able to gain the 5 degrees from rotating the distributor, so I'm sure thats how its done.

If my timing belt is a tooth off, then I would notice some serious idle issues... which I don't. even with the TE1 and E1 jumped, it idles smoothly at around 550-600 rpm. Normal idle is around 725rpm and is very smooth. I'll take your advice Bitter and check the alignment of the other marks on the cam and crank when I get a chance.

I still haven't had a change to take off the distributor and look at it (due to heavy work schedule), but I'll do it tommorrow hopefully, unless you guys think that's a waste of my time and I should look at reseating the timing belt. The belt was changed 25k ago and still looks like its in great condition.

Guys! Guys! Guys!!!! I did use a paper clip on TE1 and E1..... This is exactly what I followed:


http://www.toyotacelicaonline.com/timing.htm

I also referenced my Cliton's Manual which also had the same info (with some diagrams).


And like I said before, I tried this exact method on my friends car first and got the correct results. We have the same engine... 5sfe (his 92 celica GT).






So how would I remedy this? And how could it be installed so far off?

Yes. Like I said, i'm sure I did everything right. My friend has a 92 celica GT... same damn 5sfe engine... I tired moving the inductor pickup to all 4 plug wires... same reading off by + or - 1 degree. And that 2nd bolt behind is a btich to get, but yes I did get it...

No, not since my $405 speeding ticket.... I've been driving it like a baby.... and my mpg went from 17 to 19...... and from 20 to 22.... but still.........=\