6G Celicas Forums

Don't have access to a dyno chart at this stage, but seems that my old ST205 GT-Four is doing well. New owner took it back to the dyno for a re-tune (Apexi PFC) and saw 300whp @ just 19psi. Seems that the fuel pump was maxing out from what I understand, but with that sorted and larger injectors (still stock at the moment), see no reason why 320 - 330hp can't be seen at all 4 wheels
We have a few more minor mods to do which could evenntually see over 350whp And it has the grip to cope too
Gary

Sold last week - sorry.

Here it is - the Subaru Legacy B4 RSK. Cracking car with 4WD and a twin turbo flat four 2.0. Fully loaded with electric everything and a great tiptronic gearbox with gearchange buttons on the steering wheel. Tons of space inside and very, very smooth and comfortable. Certainly gets up and goes when you sprinkle a few herbs on the gas pedal















Bought it direct from an importer and saved a shed load of $. Paperwork etc was being sorted out today and am picking it up tomorrow - just in time for the weekend
Gary

Well, the GT-Four is up for sale. Finger's crossed that I've found a potential buyer, but feel that it's time to move to something more practical.
Really need to start thinking about something that can tow a trailer for when the race car is finished and be a bit more practical regards to rear passengers and luggage space. Pretty much narrowed it down to a Legacy B4 RSK with tiptronic. Took one for a spin today and was extremely impressed with how quiet and smooth it was as well as still be pretty quick.
Will I be sorry to see the GT-Four go? TBH, not really. I've made the decision to move on and, after all, it is just a car I'll keep you updated on what happens.
Cheers
Gary

Here's a better photo of them...



Really should update my sig too
Gary

I ahve a Koyo unit on my ST205. It is a lot thicker than the stock rad and would be suprised it it wouldn't be able to cope with some stupidly serious power.
I'm stuck here at work for the next 17 hours so can't get any pics up until the morning. Will endeavour to do so.
Gary

I have a spare GT-Four front upper tower strut bar and a rear brace cover if anyone is interested. PM me with an offer
Gary

If you mean mine - 7.5".
Gary

Posted these up absolutely ages ago. In car vids of the Dunlop Targa Narva Tour here in NZ. Just after I bought the car and was the firts time I'd really driven it hard - mods were just TRD pads, TOMs panel filter and custom made exhaust. Note that all driving was done on officially closed roads....

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar1.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar2.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar3.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar4.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar5.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar6.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar7.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar8.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar9.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar10.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar11.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar12.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar13.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar14.wmv

www.220gti.co.nz/videos/tar15.wmv

Gary

I find this quite worrying. Should you really be modding cars if you think that the brake fluid resevoir is where the power steering fluid goes?



PAS Fluid Reservoir
Brake Fluid Reservoir

Besides, forcing the brake reservoir over to one side means that it won't seat properly and that means a huge risk of leaks and even air getting into the system. That brace is obviously not meant to fiit your car. Simply bending (critical) parts out of the way is not the ideal solution to making things fit.

Gary

Superstrut, when it hasn't worn out (like all suspension will do over time) is actually a very good set-up despite it being potentially costly to replace. I can only assume that you have driven a SS equipped car which is why you are making your comment.

As for the original question, look here Technical Article
Gary

It's a GT-Four. What other reason would I need
Gary

NZ ad that played on TV here a while back.
Gary

Managed to track down an annoying clonk on the 4 yesterday. Only happened when stomping on the gas pedal or lifting off quickly which resulted in a big thump from underneath. Initially thought that the exhaust was the culprit - but alas not.
I'd already replaced the rear diff mount with a nolothane unit but with the car up on a hoist today, the driver's side mount looks as though it has completely delaminated, allowing the diff to jump around like a bucking bronco


Nearly had a heart attack this morning. Contacted Toyota to order a couple of new mounts, only to discover that the rubber bushes aren't available seperately They come as part of the actual mounting arm - guess it'll make swapping them over a bit easier. But, at a cost. RRP NZ$712.60 each And I needed 2 of them!

How on earth Toyota can justify charging prices like that is totally beyond me It's not like they are made from exotic materials or it was a limited production run of just 500 units. The ST185 bushes are available as a seperate item, but aren't compatable with ST205 parts - talk about being held over a barrel

Fortunately, the parts chap I deal with is a genuine enthusiast and is in a position to negotiate a better price 90% of the time. So, instead of paying a grand total of NZ$1425.20 + GST, he's sending them to me for NZ$200 inclusive

Thank goodness that there are some people who work within Toyota who actually live in the real world.....
Gary

How did you test it?

Cheers for the comments everyone
Gary

Could be a HG failure.
Gary

Sorry, but that was almost as funny as the vid clip

You need to stop guessing as this could be quite a serious problem. The longer you leave it, the worse it will get. Take it to an expert and get a correct diagnosis. I really think that you are barking up the wrong tree with the pressure plate bit given the information supplied.
Gary

You really need to ask?

OEM Toyota front pads? If so, I just happen to have a brand new boxed set sitting right here
Gary

IMHO, if it was the starter gear contacting with the flywheel ring, then it would be a constant noise - such as a brrrrrrrrr. Even at idle, such as 800rpm, imagine how many times the starter would be contacting with each individual tooth on the flywheel gear ring. Say for example that there are 50 teeth on the flywheel ring. at 800rpm, that's some 40000 contacts per minute.
Still, removing the starter is a fairly easy thing to do and any wear on either the starter or flywheel gear will be very obvious.
My money is either on a sticking valve or a worn bearing. A stethascope is a really useful thing to have to help trace the point of origin. At least you can locate whether it is in the block or head.
Gary

If you're ever up in Auckland......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nargGwgp2Ds


Gary