6G Celicas Forums

Thanks for the answer. I will try putting it back on later when I get on my car.

I was sorting out my stuffs in the glove box yesterday and I found a piece of plastic part in there. Just wondering if anyone knows what it is for. Though, maybe it doesn't even belong to the car to begin with...

I guess I was misinformed then. People always told me to add when it is below the "L" mark and it is fine if the oil is in between.



I am aware of that but sometimes the picture seems to stretch the page too big/too long >.>

No engine light is on, and tbh the car just passed the NJ state inspection last week... Right now, I suspect there is also problem with the driver side strut/wheel because the car feels a little bouncy when I am driving. I guess I will just bring the car to a mechanic to look at just to be safe.

Current Oil Level:
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff36/ry...1030_161833.jpg

This is how my cold engine sounds like at the moment:
http://s237.photobucket.com/user/ryopso/me...153825.mp4.html

I checked the oil level a few days ago and it was really low. It was the first time I added oil since I bought the car last month, and I have no idea which type of oil the previous owner used. So, I just added about a quart of Castrol GTX 10W-30 High mileage motor oil to bring it up to the halfway point between low and high marks on the dipstick.

Since then, my engine (7afe) had been acting up. For instance, the engine sometimes vibrates very roughly when I stop at the traffic light or driving on highway; engine sometimes get really noise; and the car feels sluggish sometimes. (Symptoms are more noticeable after driving for awhile. Not with cold engine)

So, I am just wondering if this is normal or maybe something is wrong with the engine?

Note: Do you think it has anything to do with the catalyst converter? Last month, I was told that there was a small leak on the catalyst converter and I will need to get it replaced eventually.

Just picked up the car like 30 minutes ago. Apparently, I misheard the guy and it was the cylinder and drum that needed to be replaced.

So basically, these are what he charged me:
Parts:
2 x Rear wheel cylinders - $48
2 x Rear wheel drums - $80

Labor:
Rear brake job (New linings and drums installation) - $140
Rear brake cylinder installation and brake bleeding - $80

Total: $348 + tax

Honestly, it is probably much cheaper to work on it myself if I can drive the car home. But I think it is too dangerous to drive on a mountain area without any brake...

Btw, these are the part he took off:

I don't recall what he said exactly, but he did mention a couple other things beside the drum and shoe when I was talking to him on the phone.

I didn't get a chance to go to the shop to look at the problem, but to be honest, I don't really have too much choices anyway. The problem occurred when I was like 20 miles away from home, and the car is not drivable with no brake. So, I either have to trust the guy or have the car tow to someone I can trust... He said he will get it done by the end of today or tomorrow, so I will just ask him to show me the parts that he had replaced when I go pick up the car.

Just got a call from the mechanic. He said the drums and the shoes for the right rear wheel both fell apart and need to be replaced; then he suggested me to replace the left rear side at the same time also. The quote he gave me is $350. Does it sound reasonable?

Hi everyone. I am new to the forum

(Just bought a 97 Celica ST around 2 weeks ago)

I was driving earlier today, then suddenly, I heard a pop/snap noise and my brake just stopped working. (i.e. I have to step on the brake petal until it hit the floor in order to slow down the car slightly, and I didn't feel any resistant when I was stepping on the brake petal) I drove the car to the closest mechanics available but he won't have time to look at it until tomorrow morning. So, I just want to hear your opinion on what is the cause of the issue because I don't want to get rip off by the guy.

Thanks in advance.