6G Celicas Forums

Gracias por la informacion!

En que parte de espania vives? Soy de Texas (Estados Unidos), pero mis abuelos son de Mexico.



for everyone else: the pictures do most of the speaking, if he doesnt translate..and you want a better version than babelfish, ill do it.

Don’t mean to rain on everybody’s parade...but these kits are probably the worst thing you could do for your lights.

HID lights require very different optics to produce an effective (and safe) beam pattern. Not only this, but using these kits to retrofit HID into your stock headlights is illegal. This is why you will never see companies like Hella, PIAA, Philips, etc endorse their units for or directly sell kits of this nature.

I know you guys are thinking that its not a big deal, but in reality it is. Sure you get a cheap kit that looks good but that’s about it. I'm not going to sit here and type a lecture on the physics of optics, and try to come off as arrogant or anything of the sort, but just trying to inform you guys.

do you have the black interior?

how much for the center console lid, front floor mats, and the rear hatch cover? thanks

hatch shelf still for sale? if its for a black interior let me know a final price shipped to 77840

everyone is throwing around terms without realizing what they really mean...if you want a true SQ install, you want flat/transparent sound that doesnt color the source. Saying you want more bass or whatever is not SQ. Everyone has different tastes...best best is go around to local shops and listen to everything. Make sure they turn off all eq's on the HU you are listening to.

thanks for your pm! I am leaning towards eclispse rather than alpine now, are you by chance a dealer of their products?

do you carry alpine headunits? in particular the cda-9830 model?

Best bet is to find a muffler you like, i.e. magnaflow, and have an exhaust shop do the piping for you. Something like 2.25-2.5" should work. I can't recall what it is stock, but if you aren't doing any forced induction in the near future, I would stay below 2.5"

Did you find out the shipping info on the hatch cover? email me at remjay @ neo.tamu.edu , since I dont get to frequent the boards on a daily basis. Thanks.

ah ok..yea I had no idea..since its not really heavy..just large. Wasnt trying to low ball you or anything.

But yea, lmk.

I am very interested in this! I lost mine last year when moving out of my dorm room. Have any idea on shipping costs? Zip code 77840...perhaps $50 shipped? Let me know, thanks!

anyone know the stock weights of the st wheels?

this is two both axles

might want to take "greddy" off the gauge

that concept drawing has been around for awhile now...before the annoucement of discontinuing the mr2-s and the celica.

your new tires need time to break in, so that the lubricant used to prevent sticking to the mold it was created from, can wear off. Your tires wont preform optimally till this happens; this should take about 500 miles of easy driving.

wow..just wow, you guys really need to become informed before spreading such ludacris "knowledge".

Today there is no need for cross drilled rotors. Other than you like the looks enough, there is no performance benefit to using them, unless you are using brake pads made 50 years ago. Slotted rotors were initally concieved since early brake pads gave off gasses when heated from performance driving. Why? Because the gas acted like a lubricant in that it formed a thin layer inbetween the pad and rotor. This, obviously, lowered the coefficient of friction, thus lowering brake efficiency. It worked nicely, however with time came change and now a days brake pads do not suffer from this "gassing"

So basically, these drilled rotors became more of a asthetic piece. No they do not lower temps, actually they might even raise them since the holes remove the effective surface area needed to dissapate the heat. Also, as it has been posted already, the holes increase the stress in the rotor, making cracking more likely. The holes could even act as cheese grater for your pads, slicing/shaving pieces off.
[The exception being motorcycles where the damn rotors look like swiss cheese themselves- but the stress/pad wear issue is still a factor; this is just done for weight savings..nothing else] <-- Its a trade off: longer pad life/lower temps vs weight.

Think about it...how many nascar/f1/etc do you see with drilled rotors?



Slotting is a little different...this can actually have some benefit. The slots can help keep the brakes clean of glaze and whatnot that can lower brake efficiency. However the cuts shouldnt be deep and cut correctly for their to be any tradeoff benefit.



As for going with cheaper ebay rotors...all i am going to say is you get what you pay for. Those cheaper rotors probably started off with mediocre blanks at best..and drilling holes sure isnt going to help. I dont mean to come off as a pompous jerk; Its your car and money do with it as you wish...just dont go spreading false info.

You arent going to get true dual exhaust on a 4cyl; you can get something to mimic the mr2/etc...but thats about it.

pointless for them to be cross-drilled AND slotted....

maybe a modded FD...but other than that...that's hard to believe.

the elise also ways about 2000lbs

switching to the 7th gen brakes or using brake kits designed for any other generation is not the best of ideas. You will throw off the the brake bias and probably even hinder braking performance.

I hope you are kidding

Do you go to A&M? I don't live in CS but go to school there. I have a 94 Hatchback...if you ever do a meet or something LMK - remjay @ neo.tamu.edu

Bottom line: Can you get a(n) gt4/all-trac transmission to work in a fwd configuration? Yes. Should you? No.