6G Celicas Forums

Does it stay on after it's warmed up? I've got the same problem with mine, but only when the engine is cold. If I rev it up to about 4000-5000RPMs and let it drop, most of the time it will start to idle, although usually low, around 800, even though it's not warmed up yet.

I was thinking it could be the EGR being dirty, since it's fine after I stomp on it, I think that's warming up the engine enough that the EGR being clogged doesn't affect the cold idle...

I have the Eibach Prokit's on mine, with new KYB GR2's, and it rides really good. It's only a little lower than stock, and not too bumpy.

I decided against the Sportlines because the KYB's are not warrantied for drops over 1", and the Sportlines are like 2" drops. Didn't want to blow brand new struts...

If you're going to spend $$$ on better shocks and springs, why not just get a set of Tein coilovers? The cost isn't that much more than bilstein/koni and a set of springs.

How much for the drilled/slotted rotors for the GT? All 4.

What kind of shape are they in? How many miles on them?

The lowest drop I've seen so far is the Eibach Sportlines, they're supposed to be 2" all around. 40% stiffer than stock, but you'll still potentially blow your struts, or KYB struts, when you're that low.

I called KYB and they told me that more than 1" is going to blow the struts after a while, they won't warranty if you drop it more than 1". 2" is extreme, so if you go that low you should look into some Bilstein or Koni struts.

I get about 28mpg in my GT, consistently. I have a K&N drop-in and I shift around 3k regularly, and about 80% of my driving is highway. I also keep the car empty of cargo, no dead weight =].

I found out what the clunking was, it's the strut bearings and mounts. They should have been replaced when I did the struts and springs. The sound is the springs popping around on the old worn out mounts.

A Kragen guy told me that I can get a "Strut Buddy kit" for about $40 that will have the parts I need. But they also said that it's not really dangerous, so I guess I won't rush to replace them.

Not yet, but I had someone looking at the car as I cranked the wheel back and forth, and it wasn't the tires.

I'm getting an alignment this week, as soon as I have time.

Hey guys, I just installed new KYB GR2's and Eibach Prokits on my Celi, and I'm hearing a rubbing noise when I turn the wheel when the car is sitting still or at low speeds. Any ideas what it might be? My friend says the springs need to settle, but I don't see how that would make the noise disappear...

The rubbing noise sounds like it is coming from the passenger side front, but anyway, the car rides perfectly fine, it just makes this noise when I crank the wheel either way when sitting still.

Cool, thanks guys. I've got another questions about the struts, but I'll start a seperate thread for that.

Crap! I didn't add oil, I just changed my strut cartridges yesterday...

I am noticing a rubbing noise when I steer though, is that because I did not lubricate them? I didn't realize I had to add oil to the strut housing... am I going to have to pull them off and do it now? How bad is it to leave it as is?

Yah, granted, it does look a little wierd at idle, but when you stomp on it it goes away.

Uh no, unless you're launching the car sideways =].

Sway bars just reduce body roll, or lean, when cornering. Stiffer springs and struts might help launch by reducing weight transfer on a hard launch, and motor mounts can help in that regard too by reducing the twisting motion of the engine when the torque hits, but not sway bars.

Actually, you said 90% would come out one side, not a 90 degree split, but I see the earlier message someone else posted about the 90 degree split and yeah, I agree, that would be REALLY bad. The exhaust is going to hit the wall with a 90 degree split in there. You want it to encounter as little interference as possible.

The center exit dual-tip thing is subjective, I don't think it's that bad looking, I only suggest it for the performance benefit. The dual exhaust is just extra weight on a 4-cyl., but it does tend to sound better (louder) and it does look nicer if it's done right.

As for the sound being worse with 90% flowing out one pipe, that's not necessarily true at all. A lot of the SRT exhaust systems are largely straight-back with a split-off for the second pipe, and they flow mostly from one side, but they sound even deeper than the stock system.

Here's the Mopar/Borla cat-back, notice how the pipes are set up, most of the exhaust comes out the driver side. (keep in mind that this system was designed and tested by Borla, for Mopar. i.e. it's top quality for flow and sound)


What it comes down to is the design; having inline resonators and as straight a piping as possible will make all the difference. The resonators will take out the raspiness of the I4 and keeping the main piping straight will give you the best flow characteristics.

That's not true, it doesn't matter which side the actual exhaust flow comes out, in fact the best performance would be if it all came out one side instead of having to split the flow. It loses velocity when it hits the fork in your exhaust. However, it WOULD result in worse flow if the piping was too small for that one side to flow enough volume, but that probably won't be a problem in this case.

The big question is, why do you want to add weight to the car when the dual exhaust won't flow any more than a single exhaust? Dual exhaust is only appropriate for cars with two exhaust manifolds, like a V6 or V8. Granted, there's plenty of dual exhaust I4's, but it's just a waste of weight (my SRT has a dual exhaust stock).

Single exhaust is better for your performance, as long as your piping diameter is large enough. I suggest doing a single exhaust with a center exit, maybe dual-tip, right in the middle of your bumper (make a cutout).

You mean to get a SET of tires right? you can't go sticking a 225/40/15 on with your other 3 being 205/50/15.

I believe 225/40/15 is the largest tire the stock GT rims can take, being 15x7's. I was told that they're relatively uncommon though, so they may be a bit expensive.

Drilled and/or slotted rotors are just a cosmetic enhancement these days. If you look at the Porsche Racing Team, they actually remove the factory drilled rotors from their cars and replace them with plain rotors when they race-prep a car.

Why? Because it's unnecessary, and it does reduce both the rotor mass (therefore it's ability to absorb heat) and the surface area. Holes and slots are there to prevent some extreme conditions from occuring, like the aforementioned glazing and offgassing. But they do look nice, I have a set of drilled fronts on my SRT-4 =].

The biggest improvements you can make to your brake system are getting better pads or bigger rotors (is there even a big brake kit for the 6GC?). Get some Hawk HPS pads and you'll note far more of a difference in your braking than you will with drilled/slotted rotors.

CRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP!!! Anyone want to buy a set of RE750's (not RE950's) with less than 1000 miles on them??? =[

They were on sale at Costco, I got the whole set for $402 out the door, with lifetime balancing and rotation. Damn...

I called KYB and asked them for their recommendation, and they said the main point is not to lower the car too much with their GR2's.

They said the Pro-kits were ideal, and the Sportlines were too low.

So KYB GR2's and Pro-kit is the way I'm going to go. Eibach is pretty expensive, but I trust that their springs hopefully won't settle as much as a cheaper set of springs.

Next month - Suspension Techniques sway bar kit =].

BTW, what width are the stock GT rims? Are they 15x6.5 or 15x7? If they're 15x7 I'm going to cry, I just bought new 205/55/15 Potenza RE950's last month, and if the rims are 7" then I could have done 225... =[

This is solid info, thanks!

The this brings a bigger question, what brings better ride quality, the sportlines with the 2" drop and the higher spring rate, or the eibachs with a 1" drop and 15% higher spring rate?

lower drop = more bump stop polka
lower spring rates = bouncy bounce tango

What's worse?

This is great information, the Tanabe NF's are supposed to be stock spring rates, so I can see the relative difference now with Tein's, and I just need to find out about the Sportlines and Prokits now.

Stock = 2.9kg/mm front, 2.3kg/mm rear
S Tech = 3.9kg/mm front, 2.2kg/mm rear

Something tells me I'm going to want something more in the ~4kg/mm front, 3kg/mm rear range. About 30% stiffer than stock, to keep me off the bumpstops and prolong strut life.

Prokit may be the way to go, I like the look of the Sportlines but something tells me they're just too low for bumpy roads.. unless they have a REALLY high spring rate.

THANKS!

Anybody out there know any of the following spring rates:

Stock 1995 Celica GT springs
Tein S-tech lowering springs
Eibach Pro-kit springs
Eibach Sportline springs

I'm trying to decide what to get for my Celica. I am going to get a set of KYB GR2's for it, and plan to lower it with new springs. I've heard that the Tein's look nice, but are only slightly stiffer than stock, meaning bouncier ride and bump stop thumping, but are the Eibach Sportline's any better? They both drop about the same.

Thanks.

May I be the first to recommend a Dodge SRT-4 ACR? It can hang with an M3, for $22k, stock. Add $4k and you get 350HP and more tq.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?se...9&page_number=4

http://www.stowaway.us/srt/acrvsm3-mphmag.html

I posted this before, I talked to Hotshot about a month ago and they offered to make one if I brought my car in for fitting.

I thought the cost was going to be more like $300, they don't need to provide everything that they do for the 5th Gen header which costs $450+.

Either way, I would bring my car in, but at $450+ I am not going to buy a header. That's just too much for just a header, on a 5S-FE it might only make 5-10hp max.

Anyone know of a 5th gen 5S-FE header dyno chart?

What mods do you have on your 5SFE?