6G Celicas Forums

Really, you can get the turbo 3sgte from Japan for about $1,200 plus some custom wiring. But even just the stock 5sfe will still run you $900 from a salvage yard.

Extensive info in the stickies

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=1311

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=73956

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=77843

If you are swapping into a 1994 OBDI car does that cause more problems with the 5th gen OBDII?

Would that make the 4th gen better for the older car or does it matter?
I also heard that the 5th gen doesn't have an oil cooler.

The more i add things up,
If you go and get a 200K+ mile 5s from a self-serve salvage place you can count doing a full rebuild and at least $1,000 by the time its all said and done. And if you want to put the cams in it that is another $1,000 and you are still at maybe 160hp.

However, I can get a 3rd gen from an ST205 for $1,300, with only 50-60K miles on it and just drop it in and leave it stock. And my local SCCA club will let me run that as "stock" in the class the GT4 belongs to (GS). So i only go up one PAX modifier level. We have such a small club that we run a class called Tuner which incorporates HS, GS, STF, STX so i can still race against the the Fiesta Muahahaa

I think the time has come to just do the 3S swap.

I'm glad you're ok too Box
I"ve had my problems in the past too, which set me off on the quest i've been on for about 15 years now.
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I've been gone a while because the last couple of years really melted my old brain and then it cooled and recrystallized it into a newer, stronger form. Sort of..

I decided that trying to break into a completely new business as a recent graduate, like working for an automotive company, was not my best option. So i stayed with what i was already a pro at, Air Conditioning, and began to pursue opportunities with every company i could find. Just before graduation I was offered a job as a design engineer with a full service architecture firm, in Oklahoma City..


n-So he loaded up the Truck
a-and 'e moo-ved to O-K-C
Oklahoma that is,
Cheap Gasoline,
Bad Roads,

(*Banjo Solo)

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Well and i also rented a dolly and drug the Celica behind me. About 4 years she had served me as dependable daily transportation for a very reasonable amount of money. And I even drove it back and forth from KC to OKC about every other month for the first while i was there, always going back home on the weekends.

And its about 350 miles on I35 straight across the wastelands of Kansas. You guys know the Celica is not geared for highway gas mileage beyond but the speed limit is 75 and you're right at that point where the engine is just starting to make torque and all you have to do is squeeze the pedal little and you are doing 90.
Anyway..
About the 5th or 6th trip I made I checked the oil before I left and found it to be unusually dark for only having 1,500 miles on it. I was thinking of someone on the interwebs who had recently started a fight over whether or not you needed to change your oil every 3,000 miles, he said it was all an oil company conspiracy.. And insisted that these days they only recommend changing your oil every 10,000 miles. I pointed out that if you have a 20 year old Toyota, those recommendations do not apply to you.. And yet before i left for this trip I started to think that maybe there is something to this theory and decided to just go ahead and go on the road without changing the oil again.

It was on the way back, I got to about the Stillwater exit, about 45 miles from home, and i began to here a distinct tap tap tap. It sounded more like something loose in the motor bouncing around freely. I was thinking of how before i had the high tension wire get caught in the throttle spring and strip the insulation so that the spark jumping to the block created a tick tick tick noise. And so i pulled over at the Loves truck stop and popped the hood. What found was a big ball of magnetic metal shavings all over the dipstick. At that point I knew there was no hope for this motor and the only thing i could do was hope to reduce the price of my tow bill and so I hopped back in and fired her up and kept on driving, slowly. But the noise kept getting louder. I was really impressed by the way it behaved just like we learned about the failure mode of shaft mechanisms in school. It starts with a small crack, then the crack spreads and you begin to get deflection back and forth. When you examine the cross section of the shaft afterward you can see the tiny striation lines where it flexed back and forth over and over again until it finally failed with one big Pop.

She made that pop and coasted, dead over to the side of the road and belched 2 quarts of oil about 15 miles from home. Cost me about $150, of course i am on the side of the road before i learn that my insurance agent mistakenly didn't sign me up for roadside assistance..

I made it about 4 days of walking and riding the bus and then i called an Uber and said, "Take me to this car dealership up here."
I was going to get a 2013 Regal. You know that knew body style is real nice, it looks tough. But something the dealer did made me walk away from it and i went over to another dealer and picked up a 2014 Corolla. It's so much roomier than the old Corollas and with a tailwind the CVT makes 40 mpg at 80 mph running the AC.
And it has Electric steering and a Timing Chain! (*Dance)
And i later went back and read the Consumer Reports on all the problems the Regal has. I made the right choice


So the Celica is still sitting here in the parking lot and I have a garage now. But just a month ago i was ready to call the scrap yard to come and get it and I was gonna go down and get me a new BRZ I went down and drove it and was so much more impressed with the Subaru model than the Toyota. But that idea lasted about a week and then i came back to Earth and realized i wasn't going to spend $500 a month on a toy that is 3,500 rpm at 70 mph even in 6th gear..

So now I have decided to rebuild the Celica. I'd like to get practice with my first motor by going to the Upickit and get a 5sfe to rebuild for $250. Then I can drive the Celica again sooner. I was hoping to do the little things that may help it preform better and yet still be able to call it stock when i go to the autocross. But the truth is you cant do much that's going to hang with that damn Ford Fiesta (*Shakes Fist). In fact as soon as you change the cam you are sitting in modified class with only 160hp.

But i wanted to get practice and make my learning mistakes on the 5s. For the next one I already own a 4age with C52 from my '89 AE92. It's only 1.6L but there are so much more racing and aftermarket parts for this motor and transmission (Quaife sells a 6-speed sequential kit ). And you can get 200 hp N/A or 300hp Turbo from this thing at a lighter weight.

Yet right now on Ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-99-Toyota-Celic...ksid=m570.l1313
You can get a 3SGTE from an ST205 with the transmission for $1,600 - says 'more than 10 available' ,
Maybe i can just sell the 4A.

Or a 4th gen Caldina 3S for $1,300 and just bolt it to the S54,

I could just get a 3sge for only $800 and build it for a nice N/A, even just building it for 200 hp with a nice 11:1 N/A sound would be good for me to be content. I'm not trying to be the fastest Celica out there.

But I'd still rather build my old Celica than anything else. Except maybe a 2nd gen MR2, but i bet the motor is not as easy to get out of that thing..

Did you just replace the 3 that mount the transmission, or did you replace the oil damper/right-front (front of motor) mount too?

Also the head is aluminum but the block is cast iron. And then you have things like airbags, anti-lock brake system.

I'd say if you're going to buy a new car, well buy another Toyota silly

I just got a 2014 Corolla Le and its a freakin beauty. LED headlights, back up cam and a touch screen radio but not the silly things i don't want like auto lights, or lane departure BS.
2ZR-FE with a CVT and it feels as roomy as a Caddy compared to the Celica.
You can go as fast as you want on the highway and the CVT will still adjust down so that the engine speed is 2k rpm, and you're getting 40mpg.
I'm gonna put another 200K miles on this thing. Toyota Corolla, that's all the warranty I need.

Oh What a Feeling!

https://twinfalls.craigslist.org/cto/d/91-c...6309403367.html


Amazing restoration for a 5th gen alltrac; took the whole thing completely apart and rebuilt it.
But you'll have to click for yourself to see what he wants for it.

You know the most popular car at the autocross is a Miata. It's small, light, and RWD. It still tickles your accelerometer.
Now I live in Oklahoma, and we get away with all kinds of **** here

The celica model doesn't have them. It will just seem like it idles rough, but that is normal.

Cast Iron will bend, Once. But never bend Back.


But if you 've got time, IDK what city you're in, you may not have to wait too long until they bring another one into the yard. I do know that the ST and GT have the same knuckle.
And Bonzai is right, you could post WTB on the forum and there's sureley somebody with one sitting in a pile in their garage. Maybe Several of them.

The Celica model does not have them. but there's no need to remove them.
The 2.2 is a stroker and so it inherently idles rough, they put those on the Camry to make it idle a bit smoother.
Maybe they add to the inertia of the crank slightly and might cost just a second of acceleration ? /shrug

The motor itself is the same thing, it will mostly drop right in. There are some later model Camry that have a coil pack instead of a distributor, all you would have to do is put the distributor on it the motor itself is almost exactly the same. You don't need to worry about internal stuff like the oil pump.

Mine originally had a Camry motor in it when I got it and there was a little chunk of the cowl that covers the oil pan cut away to make it fit or something. So it may look a little different but there is no need to modify the oil pan itself.

It's one of those things I USED to have a picture of on this site until we got hosed by photobucket.

Somehow I imagined that your house would have a Lot more than 3 Celica's parked out front. D

I didn't even realize this until a couple of days ago either.
Although I see that my Google drive has a section for "Pictures" and it says Coming Soon. I already use google drive to upload and share large files from books to videos so hopefully they will take the third party hosting feature too.

Of course the alternative of hosting the pics directly on this site is all about server space. And that costs money too.

The nice thing is that you can run whatever tires you want and still qualify as Stock. As long as they fit in the wheel well.
But once you get yourself into the modified class you are racing against peoples who got lotza money to spend on deer toys.
I guarantee you will love it.


So, funny story...

I was riding down the highway back from our job with the Muskogee with a fellow I work with in his early 2000's Chevy Silverado. His vortec engine is made of real Tornadoes, and his odometer read infinity miles. And I was telling him that when I got back I was picking up some tires I had ordered
and having them installed, ...at Walmart.
He gave me this funny look.
I said "Oh come on, it's just 5 lug nuts. How can they **** that up?"
The deal is that, by the time you pay shipping, Tirerack's price was the same as Walmart's. And the summer Direzza in the stock size costs the same as the Kuhmo all-seasons do. Except when I asked for a quote from another local "Discount" tire place they wanted fifty bucks more for each tire. So I went to Walmart.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0lcrrVD5...SnV5MXNyTVh3bXM

I got myself some Dunlop Direzzas and I get to go back to the track to try them out next weekend

I'd like to update my opinion on this topic.
From what I've seen of the new one the Focus RS is the European rally car that we have never been allowed to have. And they say it was designed by the people who race Ford in Europe.
2.3 liter turbo that makes 350 hp and 350 ftlbs of torque. Thrust vectored AWD. The say you can flip the switch to drift mode and it will let the back end slide, and then sit and cut donuts in a radius no bigger than the car. And you can keep it up until it burns a hole in the tire.

After you equip it the way I want it would be $45k, about $750 a month. And sadly I could walk in there and they'd approve me to buy one.
I just had to walk away. I want to keep my race car habit at 20 year old Toyota's for now.

Are there any other funny symptoms that go along with it? Like maybe the dash lights flicker at idle speed?
I'm going to guess your alternator may be on the way out. It could be several months, or it could be tomorrow.

http://www.andysautosport.com/images/extre...licac5front.jpg

they call that the C5, it similar to the stock gt4,
or the Invader is cool looking too
https://www.carid.com/duraflex/blits-style-...amp;url=1666518

Today I loaded up the Celica on a tow-dolly behind the Uhaul and drug her to our new home in Oklahoma City

Today I embark on a road trip from KC to OKC. Stock dependability don't fail me now!
When I return the odometer will be just shy of 300k

I would guess that it's just fine, as long as it wasn't sitting outside in the elements or something.
The stress of being installed combined with the elements is what ruins the rubber.

Maybe you could call a dealer parts counter and ask them?

I put off starting until graduation in May, then its on.
Im planning to start rebuilding the motor with turbo worthy compnents.
They have a nice kit on smr2u.com

My problem is that when i started looking for another car to use as DD while i work on the Celica, I found a Corolla that is more worthy of building. So now im not gonna spend money on the Celica right away.