6G Celicas Forums

I am interested in a set as well.

Thanks everyone, I went with the option of just buying a JDM long block. My father in law helped me take apart the cylinder head and found I had a combination problem of my exhaust valve and piston being the problems. It is going to be hell of a lot of work but worth it keep my Celica as long as I can.

Hello everyone, I am in dire need of advice for a shop that will rebuild my cylinder head. I am located in the Sacramento area. Also, if there is anyone who knows of a website or place that sells used JDM cylinder head instead that would be great.

Thanks!

I am still interested

Sorry for the late reply! So from the crankcase there is that vacuum port that leads up to another port on the TB right behind the butterfly flap. I know with the Injen IS set up for CARB approval, the crankcase vacuum is ported onto the port provided on the short ram pipe. Considering that now there is a missing vacuum at the TB, they recommend placing a plug to prevent debris being sucked in but in my case I just used the port from the short ram and connected it to the port from the TB. I am sorry if this just made things complicated. I could take a photo if that helps.

I recently installed an Injen short ram and on the C.A.R.B approved set up, the breather hose is removed from the TB and plugged into the short ram. The only problem is that now it seems there has been a larger amount of blow by recirculating (I know this is by design for California's EGR) so I bought a Spectre breather filter, took off the hose connecting the TB to the crankcase, placed the filter, and connected the hose from the TB to my short ram. Doing this reduces the annoying blow by gunking up the TB and feeding cleaner air. Now if you are like me and live in California, this is an illegal mod since the vacuum routing has been tampered with, but if you are on good terms with law enforcement then you will not have to reroute the correct vacuum lines until smog.

As for any power increase; marginal. The fact that the blow by and crankcase pressure are no longer recirculating helps free up some withdrawn power. *Anyone please correct me if I am wrong*

I hope this answers your question! :]

Hello, I would like to say that this forum has helped me tremendously over the past few months from repairs to ideas for the future. I would like to return the favor since I have seen plenty of post about their Celica's having trouble on cold starts resulting in stalling. This is my first post on a repair so if I am not clear on anything, I apologize and I will verify whatever I missed on.I have covered almost every trouble shoot to fix the problem replacing the spark plug wires, coil, distributor, spark plugs, reset the ecu, cleaned the IAC motor, replaced IAC motor from another 5sfe at pick n pull,disassembled the IAC valve to give a thorough clean, topping off a little more of the oil with Lucas stabilizer, adjusting the throttle opener vacuum, and although some of what I replaced I needed anyway, it still did not fix my problem. Mind you I have been trying to figure out this problem with my father-in-law who is an ASE certified mechanic for over ten years and specializes work on Toyota engines.

The problems I have with my Celica are when it is parked on my driveway (inclined), on a cold start I am able to start the engine but eventually stalls unless I fix my foot on the accelerator to keep the engine from stalling and to warm it up; the other problem is the mixture in the morning is too rich. The other day, I was studying the vacuum diagram and verified that everything was connected until I came across one vacuum actuator called 'idle up valve'. I asked my father-in-law and noticed it was strange since the Camry 3sfe has a part similar to the 'idle up valve' but on the 3sfe, the vacuums are directly connected to the TB eliminating the need for another actuator. On the diagrams for the vacuums, look for the actuator with dotted lines going from the IAC/EGR to the 'idle up valve'.

*note; I am writing this for the Celica's with the 5sfe, although the 7afe has the same actuator but different locations.

Here you can see it is below and behind the TB on the left side if you were looking straight at the engine or standing at the fender on the passenger side.


This is another angle just to get a better idea of where it is actually placed.


So I learned from my father-in-law that this actuator will, on a cold start, compensate the ratios of fuel and air(hence I would run rich in the mornings) since the colder air is dense. Going with the new information and knowing all of the work I have done to try and fix the problem in the past, I began performing test to determine whether or not actuator was the problem or my connection. I used a simple test with a tester light, with the engine off and connecting to the positive terminal, I prodded the connection to verify there was power. One more test that should be performed and is easier with another person is to disconnect one of the hoses, start the engine(on cold start), and check to feel if there is any suction.

Here is a view of the connection unplugged and where I tested the circuit.

Positive charge test with engine off.



The next test will be with the ignition on, and testing prong on the negative terminal, perform the same test.



It goes without saying, if there is no light indicating a charge, then a fuse is most likely the problem. So if the problem does not lie with the connection then it is the idle up valve.


There are only two bolts on the harness which are 10mm and two vacuum hoses, very simple unless the hoses are old and brittle in which I ended up doing myself. As for the actuator, I grabbed a few from Camry's of the same engine from 92-01. The only problem is that some of years do not have the exact same engineering for the 5sfe so beware.


Here it is removed


Here is another photo of the newly replaced part; as you can see it has a different orientation which will break any brittle hose.


There is a slight difference in the design for the Camry 5sfe idle up valve but that is only in regards to the orientation of the actuator, but the brackets mount just the same. One other thing to consider are the hoses, I had to replace the hose facing down since it began to crack as well as the fact that with the new orientation of the actuator, it requires a shorter hose to complete the vacuum line. After this change, my cold start has stablized even when I am inclined and putting it into gear.

I hope this helps anyone else with stalling on cold start and I apologize if this did nothing for your Celica.

~Rawrssell

So I was talking to my brother in law about improving the handling on my st-204, and I was thinking about buying or maybe making my own strut tower bar when he told me that it would benefit me more if I would just get a thicker sway bar. Here is what I wanted to bring up; he told me that usually across the board for cars, convertibles have thicker sway bars considering the fact they do not have roof and other supports of the body like lift back and hatch backs have( for a lack of better terms). I was wondering if anyone else would be able to confirm that information, because I am located in California and they love convertibles, so I was planning on making a trip to pick n pull or local junk yards to hopefully score a sway bar.

Thanks!

Hello, I know I am half a year late from the last post about the teq emblems but I was wondering if there are still any available? I am new to this forum; I have searched ebay and amazon, but they only have decals and the only other forum with the emblem was the fj forum but they only have it for the grill.

Thanks!