6G Celicas Forums

Hey guy's,
Just wondering if anyone else's clutch pedal is hard to push in. I've never really noticed it but I drove a mates toyota the other day and his was so easy. Is there anything that determines how hard it is to push down or if i could make it any easier? thanks for your help.

Could it be your outer CV joint? Good Luck.

That happened to me on my old car, it ripped the thread out. I just put a bit of locktite round a new plug and put it in cause it wasn't worth fixing it. It was still going strong when i put it in the wreckers for scrap metal. good luck.

Just replace the whole axel,I just got a rebuilt axle with new inner and outer cv's. it's not that hard and it's easier than mucking round pulling the joint apart. It was 180 bucks for the axle (but i had to give them mine back) and it took a couple of hours. the worst part is getting the wheel lug nut off. 32mm i think. good luck.

Is there any black or white smoke coming out the exhaust? if you're head gasket's really bad you should see some exhaust smoke. but it could be only partially gone and the coolant and oil are mixing. Do you think it was hot long enough for the head to warp?

Doesn't continuous flashing mean that it has no codes to throw? I could be wrong. good luck.

She'll be right, I took the valve out of the valve cover when it was out of the car and glued and let it dry before i put it back in.thanks for the reply

Hey guy's,
Just finished putting the new gasket on, This is the first gasket i've done. Is there usually a bit of a burning smell? It's definetely not oil, i thought it might just be the new gasket. I just superglued the pcv valve back together and silicone'd it up. It hasne't broken yet. haha. Also when i turned the car back on there was some clear fluid running down the out side of my exhaust after the cat, i didn't have the a/c on and i have no idea where it's coming from. any idea's. cheers

Hey guy's,
I was just replacing my valve cover gasket and when i took the hose off the pcv valve that runs to the intake manifold the stupid thing broke. Just wondering what exactly the pcv does and how hard is it to get hold of another one. Also where are the injectors. cheers for your help.

Thanks guy's, they're discs front and back. i'll have a look at fixing it sometime soon. cheers again.

Hi guy's,
I replaced my front and rear brake pads about 6 months ago. In the front i put good quality ones that cost around 90 bucks. they're going really good. In the back i put ones in that cost around 35. the driver's side (in rhd) back brake alway's squeels when braking but only under a certain amount of pressure. It will go away if i brake hard. and lately it's been sticking when i have the handbrake on. After i release the hand brake the car won't roll forward or back if it's on a hill and will only move when i go to accelerate and will make a sort of cracking noise when it comes off. Just wondering if you thought it was the cheapo pads of something else. Cheers for your help.

Is there any smoke coming out the exhaust? oil might just be slipping past the oil seal and dripping into the exhaust housing, it would explain any smoke coming out the turbo or cat. I don't know why it would only happen under boost. Does oil pressure increase under high revs? If it's just oil slipping past maybe you could put a oil resistor in but only if the turbo still gets enough oil. good luck.

I only had a quick look but i'm pretty sure it's engine oil. The back of the valve cover gasket makes sense. I might get under there with a can of degreaser and try and isolate it then look into changing it. Thanks for your help.

Hey guy's, i appologise in advance for the vagueness of this post but when i was changing the oil this arvo i had a look up behind the engine and there was a fair bit of oil all on the runners going from the intake manifold to the block (supplies the cylinder's with oxygen, don't know their name). Anywho it was mostly on all the nuts that hold those runners on. The oil change cap was screwed tightly on and I couldn't think of any seal that is back there that could have gone and isn't a real pain to change. Just thought i'd check to see if anyone had any idea. Cheers.

Thanks for all your help guy's, I'm pretty sure i was imagining that vibration and if i wasn't it's gone now. They used new joints for both inner and outer and looked as if it had been done well. If I get a chance i'll take it back out and take those rings off but if not ah well it seems to be going alright. Cheers.

oh ok thanks for your help, Can i just keep that one in there or should i take it out and put the proper one in?

Hey guys, Put in a new driver's side driveaxle and took her for a test drive and all seems ok. Although i think it may vibrate a bit more on acceleration but it can barely be noticed. Has this happened to anyone else. Also there were two types, one for abs and one for non abs. The bloke at the store reckons the sx model doesn't have abs although the new one wasn't exactly the same as the old one. Where the axle goes into the wheel the old one had rings around the axle (which i cut my hand on ) But the new one has a ring that has some teeth on it that looks like it may drive something but doesn't go that close to the brake so it doesn't really do anything. I haven't really explained it well, i've started to confuse myself. Thanks guy's.

Hey guy's, I bought a reconditioned drive shaft with new cv joints on them and the inner joint is so much more flexible than the outer, the outer is actually quite stiff to try and move sideway's. Does anyone know if this is normal? Also what's the size of the wheel nut that you have to take off to get to it, 30mm? Thanks for any help.

I reckon it might be you're spark plugs, the same thing was happening to me last year and after changing the plugs it was fine. In the mean time i found that if you hold down the accelerater to 3500 rpm for about 1 second before you take of it makes it not so bad. Hope it helps.

While we're on the topic, What is the differences between normal engine oil and transmission oil? I couldn't imagine too much difference, they do pretty much the same thing? I'll do mine again soon with syncromesh cause i have to do my inner cv's and i may as well change it. Cheers fella's.

I changed mine yesterday with some semi synthetic trans oil and i didn't notice too much of a change if any at all. I wasn't really expecting fantastic results but it still grinds a bit when changing. I didn't use syncromesh. I think i put a bit too much in, any negative effects of that. I know what you're talking about with the tight bolts...had to use a massive breaker bar. Thanks for the great how to.

My car does that too but it's usually when i'm revving high and it's when i change gears that it happens, I put platinum tipped sparks in there and it doesn't do it so often. I don't really like it but some ppl do.

I've got a stock 3sgte manifold off a mr2 and the same thing happened to me, 1 extra bolt on each side, nothing the trusty hack saw couldn't fix

Thx for the advice presure, I tried searching for this but didn't come up with the exact answer, can the 2 bar map sensor off a 3sgte or other motor (don't know what else carries them) just bolt on to the stock 5sfe without having to upgrade to a better ecu? What color is the 2 bar map sensor, 1 Bar stock Blue?? What cars and years do they come off. It's either doing that or a friend told me i could use a fuel pressure regulator FMU? Also everyone alway's goes on about the importance of correct tuning etc. I fully agree but what exactly does this include? Thanks for your help.

Yeah i'm not running any fuel management or larger injectors, I'd only want to run 5 psi boost, is that stock when you block off the second wastegate actuator air line on the ct26? Does the ct26 use steel oil seals cause i've installed it before without using the resistor and oil was going into the turbine housing and exhaust. Do you reckon it'd be cool to use now with the resistor in? What happens if you run boost on stock map sensor? Run lean? Thanks for all your help.