6G Celicas Forums

Ye's I've heard about him, but I was waiting to maybe find some originals, as that price for replicas is a bit more than i'd like to pay to be honest. In the meantime, i'll keep an eye out as well.

I'm looking for a pair of Euro Riser blocks for the pre facelift two post spoiler. I know these are very rare, but if someone has a pair they're not planning to use, i'd love to buy them. Shipping to Malta Europe.

Also, were these offered from the factory or are they a fabricated item? Thanks!

Good that's exactly what I wanted to hear!! Thanks for your help! So from a reliability perspective these bushes are quite good I presume. Next up, maybe the engine bushes cause one of them is a bit loose upon acceleration.

Yes I saw that post already, but I'm mainly concerned about long term effects if any. I've only had them for about a week now.

Hi all, i've bought a set of front polybushes for my st202 from Paul of Poland (gt4racing). I've managed to fit them properly but i didn't know that the lower control arm crush tubes were actually an OEM purchasable item, I did not have them at hand and hence did not install them. The car still feels much better and doesn't make any noises so it doesn't seem that there's any issues without the crush tubes in place. HOWEVER, i have been wondering about the possible misalignments or unintended movements that might occur under hard braking scenarios.

This is the std part 90389-21003 that is missing:



Do you think that there would be any ill consequences without these installed? Should I be worried that I might lose my front alignment or experience any noises in the future? As always, thanks for your help!

OMG 2jz-gte in the st205... If this is real, props to the owner... a massive job not for the faint hearted...

Changing the rear brakes pads on our cars (those that came with rear rotor disc brakes) is very easy to do. I did it this weekend and decided to document it for the benefit of those who never tried it.
It would be wise to check your brake pads if you notice any of the following symptoms - a loud pitched squeal emanating from the discs when moving without pressing the brakes, abnormal grinding noises or any other odd friction noises when pressing the brakes. If you have alloy wheels, you can gauge the pad thickness without removing the wheel, check that pads have at least a mm of compound left, else if you don't change them soon, you run the risk of scoring and ruining your discs.

1) Jack up the rear of the car, secure with jack stands and take off the wheels

2) Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservior cap - this will remove any pressure in the system when compressing the caliper pistons later on.
3) Grab a 12mm socket/spanner, loosen the bottom nut and remove completely.


4) using the same size socket/spanner, remove the brake line mounting nut from the strut - to make sure not to kink the brake line later on

5) Wiggle the caliper and swivel upwards. You do not need to take off the caliper completely from the sleeve. Make sure that the small rubber boots are in good shape as these prevent corrosion on the sleeves and bolts

6) Using a piece of string, secure the caliper upwards. MAKE SURE NOT TO HANG THE CALIPER BY THE BRAKE LINE
7) Slide out the old pads and remove the anti squeal shim if the new pad set comes without these. Its also a good idea to clean the clips holding the pads if you plan to re-use these as well.



8) Using the 4" g clamp and an old pad, compress the piston inwards to make space for the new pads. Check the fluid level in the reservior and you should notice a rise in the level. Remove fluid with syringe as neccessary if level exceeding MAX mark

9) With the anti squeal shims secured on the new pads, slide the new pads back into the clips. The pads with the wear indicator should be placed towards the inner side (the rear surface of the disc)

10) Swivel back the caliper and redo the caliper bolt and the brake line mounting bolt. A dab of grease on these bolts and you will thank yourself the next time you do this job. make sure not to touch the disk or pads with greasy fingers!
11) The caliper will feel loose at this point. Make sure to put the cap back on the reservior tank, start your car and pump the brake pedal until firm so that the piston and the new pads will seat tightly and adjust.

12) Go for a spin and bed in your new brake pads. Keep in mind that the brake bias is shifted to the front so your rear pads might not bed in such a small distance, normally, if the disc is slightly scored, the pads might take up to 500km in order to work to their full capacity, so always keep this in mind.

Repeat steps for the other side. It is mandatory and very important that brake pads are replaced in pairs (or all at once) at the same axle at the very least!!! All is done!



Hope you found this helpful!

You might get lucky and find a pair of euro splitters if you join the fb group "GT4 HEAVEN by Pejero Breaker ST205 ST185 3SGTE" it's a UK group so shouldn't be a problem to ship to Europe. I believe there was a pair not long ago

So, I've just taken a look and I found the charcoal canister and it seems that both inlets are connected correctly, and I couldn't find any other inlet where the above pipe I mentioned can be connected. I'm stumped; really cannot figure out where this pipe should lead to... I'm thinking of blocking it off as its definitely leaking unmetered air into the throttle body...

It's definitely a euro spec car. Do you have some links that may point me to the right direction regarding the catch tank as I haven't quite understood the purpose of it. I'm also trying to look for the charcoal canister you mentioned, any pointers where this might be located in the bay please? From the data I've gathered online it doesn't sound too important for proper engine operation? Thanks

Hi All,

I've started cleaning the engine bay and have noticed a couple of stuff that were never connected properly. Unfortunately I don't know where they go. I've attached pictures to highlight:



The red box on the left seems to be a crankcase breather missing, simply replaced by a bolt... Any idea of the part number to order the original fitting?

The left boxes show a disconnected (vacuum?) pipe, unfortunately I couldn't find out where the other end needs to go...

Anyone have any idea please?

Its been nearly eight weeks since I paid for the dash LED kit and still nothing. I'm going to open a dispute real soon... Anyone recommend a good alternative pls?

So, I've looked around in the stickies to get the door cards off, I found the post, but I really can't understand how to tackle the power windows module, I'm afraid im going to break it as I can't seem to push it upwards and lift it from the back. Does anyone here have working links or a video explaining how this is done?

I mainly want to disassemble both of my door cards to try to understand what is causing an annoying rattle when my windows are open. I can't have the radio on and listen to some music without the whole damn doors and windows rattling like its crazy!! even my cheap POS hyundai doesn't rattle that much! Is there some window track bushings i have to replace or tighten? I also wish to tighten the door cards a bit when I put everything together as I have a ton of play on the pillar side of the door card.

Has anyone got any suggestions for:

1) Removing the door cards (without breaking anything)
2) Tightening or replacing window tracts/fasteners to prevent rattles
3) tightening door cards near the B pillar?

Thanks for your help guys

I plan on removing the cone filter on mine as it does not have a cold air intake box and re-using the stock air-box with a Blitz high flow panel filter. Should I see better results especially when the engine is hot? On another note, would you think that removing the CAT will provide better performance on the 3sge engine?

Does your engine temperature gauge work? If so it may be the actual fuel gauge which is bust... Are you certain that it worked when you got it? You might be able to mix and match if you still have the old instrument panel as the tachometer, speedometer and fuel + temp gauge are separate units... The celica gauges are totally serviceable.

Well i've managed to sort it out finally, let's just say these things are real easy to "manipulate", so i've matched up the mileage (didn't cheat mind you), hooked it up and viola, as good as new. I agree, the indiglo gauges I had were terrible... first of all the speed markings don't line up properly so you never knew how fast you were going AND to top it all off you can't use the original bulbs because of runoff light, hence, needles and odometer never lit up. A terrible mod if you ask me.

Sooo I happened to find a perfect speedometer from a junkyard and was thinking of getting it, however there's only one problem... it has over 50000 km more than mine. Would it be possible to reverse the odometer to match it with the one I have?

It's been on for quite a while, never had any problems. Its only 300watts so i really doubt heat will be an issue, especially since it only powers the two rear speakers...

Hi guys,

I took off the centre gearlevel gaitor to clean and refit and couldn't help but notice this in there:



Is it the stock GT amp everyone talks about, or is it an after-market unit? I can't seem to find any pictures on any other threads!

That's some solid advice. I would also suggest sliding in some thin plastic strips beneath the side brackets to make sure that the screws don't bite down and scratch the paint beneath them when tightened. Also applies for the underside screws...

It costed $104.99 + $60 postage to Malta (EU), so I reckon postage will me much less for you in the states. Here's the link Roof Visor. Doesn't require drilling, just uses 3m double sided stuff on the base. Also uses side brackets to help fasten. make sure you can get a buddy to help fit cause its a pain to line up by yourself.

I can write down some brief instructions if you need. (i learned the hard way, lol)

I'll get a snap as soon as I can. It's not sideways or anything, just a bit offset to the right for about 7mm, but I can tell you it was really tedious to line up the screw holes afterwards, so much as I had to bend one of the fitting brackets to make it work.. Unfortunately i even managed to scratch the clear coat quite a bit, but at least its now covered by the visor itself. The trunk window washer really gives it away if you look closely.

Just how did you manage to pull it off? I've tried to pry it off but I was scared of breaking the visor so I left it as is for now. Might try to redo it as soon as I find a way to take it off. Maybe cut the double sided tape with some fishing line or something?



Yep, HiC - they could at least provided *some* tips to install it correctly the first time around!

Managed to get my hands on an ebay roof visor/spoiler! Contrary to all opinions in other threads this thing wasn't easy to install alone... But at least, the fitment is really good, although stupid me managed to stick it on a bit off centre



What's your thoughts? It's slightly more to the right than its supposed to. I'm really thinking about pulling it off and re-aligning, but its easier said than done as that double sided stuff its got on it looks like a real pain to undo!!!

Originally, all the Celis we got here came with the same speedometer faceplates as used in the JDM versions - speedo came in kilometers per hour and the maximum mark on the faceplate only goes till 180km/h. The previous owner decided it would be a good idea to install the aftermarket faceplates which read in MPH up till the maximum of 180MPH, hence that is why the reading is now way off most probably.

I'll guess I will need to disassemble the whole cluster to check if the original faceplates are still underneath & the stock bulbs are still there. What a mess!

bump?