6G Celicas Forums

After driving for a few days with the fp and B+ pins tripped out the car is 95% improved, no hesitation, I can drive at 20mph, acceleration is spot on.

So my question is what part do I change or need to look at, as far as I can tell all this has done is bypass the open circuit relay, so what have I proven or eliminated. The pump seems ok because the car is running ok. The relay only opens and closes and the car starts on the button.

If I remove the jumper from Fp and B+ it goes back to the same problem. The best way to describe the main problem is, imagine you have an auto and in first gear the car is revving but not going any faster or changing gear, then suddenly it changes gear and goes like the clappers.

Thats what mine feels like except its manual.

But with the pins shorted its right.

Any ideas?

Had time to have another go ati it again today, I took your suggestion and took out the fuel pump, the sock is a little dirty on about an inch strip, but petrol flows in and out of it so I am thinking its OK, nothing floating about in fuel tank. So I then tripped out Fp and B+ I did not hear any difference but car performance is greatly improved and the exhaust burble/popping is reduced.

I need to try it in the morning from cold to see if that has improved.

Your help is much appreciated.
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I have no symptoms of ignition coil failure ( i dont think ) no problems starting, mpg seems ok.

The reason for me thinking ijector is because one may be leaking or partial blockage or? I have no idea just clutching at straws, as the problem is only occuring from cold for a few minutes where I get the surge, then most of the time at low revs at 20 - 30 mph where it kangaroos or runs rough, at 35 and above it appears to run faultless.

Apologys for not getting back sooner...

Just to recap, I have eliminated throttle body and sensors, changed it with a known working one, changed fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm, air temp sensor, water temp sensor, thermostat.

The mileage is just short of 70,000 and timing belt was changed at 60k by Toyota.

Not getting anywhere I decided to chuck in a tin of injector cleaner into the tank. For three days I had no surging in the morning and idle was ok, at 30 mph it was better but not good.

Half tank of fuel later I am getting the surge but not as bad, I have had it cut out twice after driving for ten minutes, at 20 or 30 mph it kangaroos quite badly.

I am now thinking either its injectors or the filter in the tank, I am positive maybe wrongly that its fuel related. My next planis once I have used most of the fuel to pull out the fuel pump and check filter. Not sure if there is anything I can test.

If that fails I will remove the injectors and have them reconditioned.

If that fails I will just break it for parts as I am now sick of it
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Thanks for reply, strangly I had same as you, everytime I changed a part the problem seemed to go away for two days. I have changed throttle body and sensors twice so chances of three being faulty are slim but not unheard of. I am now thinking on the lines of a dodgy injector. Just clutching at straws.

The car has no mods fitted, my biggest problem is I do not know if it did it prior to buying it, the guy said it run perfectly, the first time I drove it I ran out of fuel on the way to the garage less than a mile away so the tank was totally dry.
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OK here goes, I am at the stage where I am going to scrap the car I am so sick of it. Have posted on another forum but had no luck so hoping someone can give me an idea.

The car is a 1995 convertible (uk) 2.0 gt manual which is the 3S-GE engine with 70,000 miles and full toyota service history.

The symptoms are, from cold it will hesitate but not always straight away, could drive half mile before it does it. When it does I can have my foot to the floor and nothing happens. Then it surges and the car will run perfectly. EXCEPT if trying to drive at 20 or 30 mph it runs rough like its in the wrong gear. Driving at 35 and above it runs perfectly, Just to add to the problem, occasionally if I reverse and stop the idle will fluctuate and stall.

Jumping the diag pins shows no faults!

So far I have changed complete throttle body with sensors from a car that was known to run perfectly.
Fuel filter, water temp sensor, air temp sensor, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotar arm, thermostat.

As far as I can tell all vacuum hoses look OK

I am stumped for ideas.

Help appreciated.
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Thanks for replys, when I changed the plugs the old ones were perfect. But I changed them anyway. The fuel filter has been changed.

I will change the coolant temp sensor see if thats the problem. It does appear to be temperature related because once its warm the problem does not excist apart the fluctuating idle at stop.

The reason I changed the whole throttle body was to eliminate that and the two sensors. So I know that I am looking for something else. Unless of course I have been unlucky and got another duff one.

Again thanks for replys really appreciate the advice.

My engine is the 3Sge is the TPS setup the same

HI

I have a problem that I cant resolve, it started with a rogh idle so I cleaned the throttle body etc. That seemed to cure the problem but it came back, I checked vacuum hoses and they "look" ok.

I took throttle body of again and cleaned it same problem. So to eliminate the throttle body and the two sensors I purchased another second hand throttle body with sensors, installed and the same problem so now I have no idea what to look at. I also changed spark plugs and fuel filter.

The symptoms are....

When starting from cold the car is not very responsive, pushing on accelerator nothing happens then suddenly it will go. It does this until it warms up and then drives ok. BUT when driving with low revs it feels jerky. I can drive for ten miles with no issues, stopping at traffic lights etc. But occasionally the revs will drop so low it nearly stalls. When I get to destination and come to a complete stop it sometimes stalls. Leaving it for ten minutes then driving results in no problems.

The main problem appears to be from cold for about 5 minutes.

Can anyone offer any ideas, the car is a 1995 convertible st202 with 70000 on the clock, its got the one vacuum hose on thhrottle body and pre the extra resonator box.

Just add, I dont know when this started, when I purchased the car owner said it run perfectly but he left an egg cup full of fuel in it and it ran out on my way to petrol station, and it was empty as you possibly get! Could this have affected injectors, I would have thought if it was injectors it would do it all the time?

Thanks for reply, do you know if its an expensive job by a garage, its not something I would feel confidante in tackling.

Going to change all fluids this week. Have no idea how to upload to you tube But the link should now work.

Thanks for your reply.

Thanks for replies Video link now working, link in first post.

Hi, I have a 1995 celica 2.0Gt st202 with 70000 miles on the clock, I have what sounds tappety noise from engine but it might be something else. i have recorded it in the hope someone might know what it might be and course of action I should take.

Http://Www.Pelicanpals.co.uk/celica and click on either of the movie files