6G Celicas Forums

So i jump in the car today start up and do everything i usually do everyday and push the panel face of the cd player in and NO power plus go to turn the heater on and no fan power or heater control . the panel lights up and the other stuff works apart from thos things plus the clock has no power. so i do what anyone else would do and check the fuses for the heater and radio and they all look good .so im left confused . i have not touched any electrical stuff for months and the last thing i done was last week and all that was. is just the oil i changed so there's no link there to the problem.

so has anyone else experienced this kind of problem and shed some light ?

ahh yeah can see why .first your st202 has the crap slow engine and is hassle for parts and to mod . and your st202 is the SS1 . you realistically wanted the uk version GT or import SS2 like mine with the much better 3SGE 175BHP if you decide to keep that car i would not bother putting money in to that engine and just find a uk GT or import SS2 model 3SGE engine and is a very easy swap and easy to find and fairly cheap like £300-400 as for that manifold its for the 3sge engine . i know because i have one and does say in the ad its for the 3sge model . so remember your model is the SS1 . and so you know when you decide to get new discs yours will be listed as import model 255 size discs and pads you will have to do some research

any more info just ask bro

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unsure i need to check . but when i felt the cat sensor wire it felt like only 1or 2 wires so probably 2 for the 02 . do you know this rusty ?

ahhh ok so is there a way to disable the temp sensor with out it causing problems or will i have to get another one ?

it has to be the thread type . but unsure what ones to use as i need the 2 for upper and lower but dont want to get the wrong ones .as heard they are different

ok i have a full system to go on but ran in to a problem once got it on the ramp and see the sensors and on the manifold and decat they are both screw in types with block of screws and the standards are flange type . and not sure how many wires they have.

i was trying to find out what universal ones i needed as see some were that toyota had special ones . i found the original denso ones but unsure what models are the right ones and i know you cant run the upper and lower on each but all is just what i have been reading . im basically looking for options in getting the right sensors or other simple ways of making it work with out codes and running bad . the car is a 94 SS2

PS i will have to extend the wires so will be cutting them any way


how have you all solved this problem

yeah pulled it and its ****ed. completely broke apart and all lose just hanging in there . so called up some local auto shops and couldn't get a new one today so ordered one and should get it next week some point so for now will just run it with out it. and its not like it makes any difference

its had a brand new top oem spec rad. and yeah thanks guys will pull that this weekend and clean it up and test it and drain and flush any crap left in the system.and see how that goes

ok people i got this problem and all started when the rad got a hole in it so i stuck some rad weld/sealant just to get it home from work. then after i left the car for a month till i could afford a new oem rad the problem started and the engine started running rough when was cold and the temperature gauge went down when do over 30 plus engine runs rough till warms up to half way then runs perfect but as soon as i start speeding up it drops and drops real fast once get on the highway .but as soon as im stopped or going slow it clams back up and i see it at the bottom or near more than i see it at normal.
plus when cold it sounds like its coking and idles rough when cold like fluctuates be low 1k nearly stalling till settles when warms up and while its cold it judders like what happens when on and of the gas in first / kangarooing but not as bad but enough to know somethings not right but only under 3k then over it runs ok but still abit hesitant on power plus is over fueling as is drinking a lot more than it did .i like im down to 25-30 mpg

so i tried to diagnose it and replaced

the temp sensor with a non cheap one
cleaned up the cold start sensor and looking new
reset the ecu
checked all lines and no air leaks
checked for air in the rad 3 times
cleaned iscv and manifold
rad and pipes are warming up nicely like should so thermostat is working fine but will pull it and clean it up.

and even tho the car has warmed up i think its telling the ecu its still cold when the gauge goes down so dumps more fuel in thinking its cold and is hurting my pockets as is my daily

so im here asking for your help guys as im all most out of ideas

they did on the ss2 ss came as a option . and i dont have a alarm and no it dont flash its just a simple switch that lights up once turn power on and then lights up when flick it


the SS-II with the higher output 3S-GE engine. The engines, both twincam, were given different cams depending on whether auto or manual gearboxes were fitted. Super-Strut suspension with a viscous coupling LSD, and Traction Control were options on the SS-II. ABS was available on all models with Sports ABS fitted to Super Strut cars.

yes mine is a SS2 with all the fully package. so as i was looking at my dash cluster i see this TRC TRC off lights behind and i have spun off a number of times but not seen any of the lights light up . plus its hard enough for me to spin with the LSD . but just would like to know how to turn it on and off . plus i have this switch just under the drivers dash that lights up but not a clue what it does . and i dont have any manuals to find this out . plus im sure the oem ss2 manuals would have been in Japaneses and what fun that would have been

any know ????

check the Trailing Arm Bushes and while there check all the others

http://www.racerbits.com/servlet/Detail?no=522

so yeah whats the difference . is it just better for on the track for harsh braking or works better in wet conditions ? help me out here guys.

i have it as mines a 94 ss2 ss. but not put it to the test

thank you man thos links helped a big deal. much appreciated

and for thos who else would like this info

1993-1995 ST202/3 SS2 SS1

Rear

Height: 64.9 mm

Diameter: 269 mm

Centering Diameter: 55 mm

Pitch Circle Diameter: 100 mm

Brake Disc Thickness: 10 mm

Minimum Thickness: 9 mm

Num. of holes: 5


1995-1999 ST202/3 SS2 - SS3
Rear

Height: 65 mm

1993-1999 ST202 SS2 - SS3 Superstrut and non are same
Front Axle:

Height: 49.2 mm

Diameter: 275 mm

Centering Diameter: 55 mm

Pitch Circle Diameter: 100 mm

Brake Disc Thickness: 28.0 mm

Minimum Thickness: 26 mm

Num. of holes: 5

Vented:
Diameter: 269 mm

Pitch Circle Diameter: 100 mm

Brake Disc Thickness: 9.0 mm

Minimum Thickness: 8 mm

Num. of holes: 5

so yes people GT EU/UK and US st203 are the same

yes please as need 110% clear conformation on this. . and it has a E56 if that helps . and i am all so guessing that the rears are same size as GT ?

just wanted to know what size mine are as going to need new rotors be for i put it on the road and dont want the hassle of ordering the wrong size so thought would ask the pros so get it right the first time rather than the hassle of measuring them.
/

come on someone must know ?

so can someone tell me the correct size of rotors the twin pot brakes use on a 94 ss2 SS

as cant seem to get a straight simple answer if there the 275 or 255 or 277

Thanks

i was thinking of a cheaper way . as can get a EU ecu very cheap and easy as they dont have a limiter .but want to mainly know if they would effect my performance due to power difference.

hi i am new to the celica seen and former honda nerd.but basically want to know can i run a EU ecu on my ss2 3sge to get around the JDM speed limiter and have no problems like change in power or such .and just a plug and play . and clocks have been swapped to eu mph.