6G Celicas Forums

With a stock 2nd gen 3sgte I wouldnt crank it up more than 15 psi.

Was the clutch properly broken in? How did you drive these 700 miles?

Yeah I think its the clutch too. I already contacted Spec about getting a kit. Probably will go with just a stage 1 since the 3sgte stage 1 can handle 378ft-lbs which is more than enough for me. I wont be going more than 15psi on the CT26.

Yeah its moving fine.

Yeah I am thinking I got the same problem. Need a new clutch disk. The thing is that I need a 5sfe clutch. Wondering if I could just change the clutch disk and be done with it. Really dont feel like buying a whole clutch kit.

The fluid was just changed recently ~ 5000km. No visible leaks. It seems like I am running out of options here, but I really dont feel like taking down the tranny.

Ok here is the deal. Im driving to work and I notice that it is difficult to engage 2nd gear, so I try 3rd. Nope 3rd doesnt work either! I am like WTF? The rest of the gears stop working too.

I pull over and turn off the car. I am able to shift into all gears when the car is off, so I know that the shifter cables are fine. I turn on the car and try again, still nothing. I cant engage any gear at all.

So what are my options here? Is it the clutch (pressure plate, disk)?

The car felt just fine before this happened. The clutch wasnt slipping and there were no odd noises from the throw out bearing.

I just changed my clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. Bled the entire system and still the same thing.

P.S. This is a 3SGTE engine w/S53 transmission. Centerforce dual friction clutch with stock 3sgte pressure plate.

Any ideas???

Alright I changed both the slave and master cylinders and I still cant select any gear. Bled the system, put fresh fluid in.


AHHHHH

This is a 3SGTE engine with s53 transmission. Centeforce dual friction clutch and 3sgte pressure plate.

I checked the master and it looks fine, no visible leaks around it. The fluid is below the minimum line in the master cylinder. The slave has a rip in the boot and it is wet all around it. Probably leaking brake fluid.

So I guess it is the slave that is dead.

Ok here is the deal. Im driving to work and I notice that it is difficult to engage 2nd gear, so I try 3rd. Nope 3rd doesnt work either! I am like WTF? The rest of the gears stop working too.

I pull over and turn off the car. I am able to shift into all gears when the car is off, so I know that the shifter cables are fine. I turn on the car and try again, still nothing. I cant engage any gear at all.

So what are my options here? Is it the clutch (pressure plate, disk)? Or is it my clutch master cylinder that is not disengaging the clutch.

Any ideas???

From that list the Kumho MX will be the stickiest. Expect 20,000km from them

I say just keep ur exhaust stock and add an electric cutout! Wanna make some noise and add about 30 +hp/tq... just flip the switch! No noise when you dont need it. Performance only when you need it.

Thats what I call sleeper!

LOL...hammer. Lets see some pics!

Im having a hard time imagining that this is going to work. You need the exact outlet size that an Apexi muffler has. Magnaflow has totally different tips. Also securing this silencer inside the tip of the magnaflow muffler will problematic. Post pics if you get it to work

I think this would work better:

Exhaust Control Valve (ECV)

Rotated rear tires to the front and still have the same vibration. WTF!?!?

Lagos for some reason I dont believe your exhaust is quiet on the highway. With a 3" exhaust, no cat, no resonator and just a 14" muffler. Are you saying you have absolutely not drone when cruising @ 3000rpm?

Oh and that 5"x8"x30" muffler is going to drag on the floor man. I tried fitting a muffler that big for my mid-muffler and there was no way it would work with a lowered car. I ended putting a 4" diameter x 18" long mid-muffler.

If the muffler shop manages to fit that thing without it dragging on the floor, please do take pictures as I would be interested to see!

RickyB said it himself that below 300rwhp you should be alright on the stock fuel pump. 275 to be safe...

No this is strictly when breaking from higher speeds. It really vibrates. However yesterday I also noticed that when I am going 80mph I have the vibration in the steering wheel as well. I dont get it because I had all 4 wheels balanced???

Maybe the fact that my driver side axle has play at the tranny side is causing this vibration.

Thanks for the tip mate

Now how do I tell which wheel bearing is bad?

Recently I noticed that when braking from 100km/h (60mph) the car would shake and vibrate. I decided to check out the front rotors and pads. The rotors had quite a bit of thickness difference and were actually below the 23mm min thickness. So I got new rotors and pads.

I install the new rotors, pads and then go out to bed them in. I go on the highway and do some stops. My car is still vibrating! :x

I dont get it! What else could be wrong? The hub surface was clean and there looked to be no dirt or anything that could offset the mating surface with the rotor. Is it possible my wheel hubs are bent and have in/out play?

The car has new sway bar end links, ball joints, and tie rods that were all installed a couple of weeks ago. The driver side axle seems to be broken though, because it makes a noise every time I take off.

Actually the stock 3sgte pump is good up to ~ 275rwhp. Which is definatley not stock.

Put 225/50/16 tires... they will fit on a 16 x 6.5 rim.

I just went to that site... and it says free shipping to US and Canada!!!

http://www.wheelsnext.com/default.cfm?acti...ntent&type=free

"Free FEDEX ground shipping from our facilities to your door on all mounted & balanced wheel and tire packages, including special and sale items. Free shipping only within the continental USA and Canada. Un-mounted wheel and tire packages are subject to shipping fees on tires only."

What size tires are you running? How are you liking the ZIEX 512?